@Richard Gallant I found an Optima D34M blue top 750CCA at a local parts store, charged it full, and still no crank. Banged on the starter w/ a small hammer several times w/ no luck. Just stumped at this point. Praying that the starter just crapped out. I cranked it in place a dozen times the other day while I was changing oil, listening for a tick at different engine temps, letting it cool off, then cranking her back up and doing it over again. Without moving the truck or messing w/ battery cables, starter or anything it was just stone cold no crank the next morning at 8F outside.

@XRAD It’s going to be an overlanding rig. I’m running 2 Hella Rallye 1000 halogen up front and a winch now, but will eventually add up to 6 additional halogen lights up top, vacuum pump, inverter, etc. I just don’t want a bunch of accessories on my cranking battery.

 

@OleMissRbl Starter or solenoid most likely then. Sucks to do when it is cold and wet.

 

The eBay starter will be here (MS) mid next week and luckily it will be back up in the 60s. My other vehicle is an ‘05 F250, so I’ve been dealing w/ gelled up fuel in this weather. I thought the Disco couldn’t possibly be as temperamental as my 6.0 (I’ve replaced every part under the hood besides engine in 5 years), but it looks like I may be going down the same path or worse if the tick ends up being worse case scenario. 😑🔫 I bought it from a LR tech who just rebuilt the top end and transmission, but it developed a tick within 150 miles of driving.

 

Installed eBay starter today. Still no crank.

checklist

• cleaned terminals
• checked that transmission is in P on dash
• checked two ground wires coming from battery w/ test light
• checked all fuses
• swapped relays around
• installed new battery
• 13v on battery and at starter
• put in a used eBay starter
• tried second key
• can hear relay click under hood when I turn key
• no codes on Nanocom

Is there anything that would prevent the starter from engaging but not show up on Nanocom?

Could a worn out key/ignition still turn to the run position, engage the relay, but not engage the starter?

Is there a way to use a jump wire on the starter w/ key in the run position to get a crank?

 

What voltage are you getting at starter with key on I was getting 12+ volts key off but 11.9v key on as I said in my previous post ground in front of engine was tight and making contact but was just slightly dirty enough for my starter to not get enough juice to crank over i did a little extra tightening of the bolt and she started right up might be worth cranking that ground down a little more.

 

And for testing I went into key 2 position and took of the little switched wire off the starter and made my own to turn the starter over when I wanted just a speaker connectors and some thick speaker wire I had laying around

 

I was barely able to get my arm down there w/ a 10mm open wrench and backed the nut off a bit, sprayed electronics cleaner, then cranked it back down. I just ran a jump wire from the positive to the starter signal wire, touched the negative cable to the post and it cranked up.

Can someone confirm this is the plug that runs to the top of the starter solenoid? If so, where does the other wire run to? I guess I need to chase down the other wire to see if there are any breaks in the wire and replace one or both wires.

 

It could also be something dumb like transmission not selected to P or N. (Don’t ask me why I suggest this).

 

Solved the issue. Two of the three 30 amp fuses (FL11, 12, & 13) were blown, so when I swapped them 12 & 13, I still had a blown fuse. Glad it was something easy, but frustrated I didn’t catch it early. Thanks for all of the advice. It helped me know what to look for in the future.

 

Also I hope you don’t have an issue that’s causing the fuses to blow.