Raising the bottle = just equals the parking on a hill.

I still have the OEM style T's on my LR's but I've replaced them several times when they started getting brittle. I've never found a copper T that fit just right or that didn't cost an arm and a leg, but I've owned several D2's that already had copper T's installed and zero issues with ever having to replace it. I'd prefer the aluminum T (posted earlier in this thread).

Why do some people not raise the coolant reservoir is like asking why people place the toilet paper roll to roll out on top or from the bottom = no one knows. Heck some of those same people might believe in muffler bearings or blinker fluid.

Keep the OEM hose clamps that over time can rust & fall off, OEM brittle plastic cooling bits like the hard lines to the radiator, and throttle body heater plate, keep the OEM T, keep the OEM 195F thermostat, keep the one piece 300.00 fan blade/fan clutch (03-04) vs an earlier two piece fan blade/fan clutch, and keep the heater hoses twisted for goodness sake = that cooling system will fail. It's not a matter of if it will fail, but more like when will it fail????

Upgrade the brittle bits to 5/16 coolant hose vs the brittle hard line, replace the brittle T with a copper or aluminum T, replace the one piece fan blade/fan clutch with an earlier two piece unit, and replace the 195F Thermostat with a 180F and you'll have a MUCH more reliable Bosch 4.0/4.6L cooling setup and much much less stress on your head gaskets.

But do as you wish it's your LR and you know best.

 

From the bottom is popular for people who have pawing pets or toddlers.
......

 

Haha I remember my oldest getting into the toilet paper when she first started to walk those mega rolls can really really fill up a bathroom with a little one just rolling away at it.

 

shanechevelle,

Smarter is: The "KISS principle" and "work smarter not harder" combined.

Your deal usually appears to be Tarzanian (my way is the best, yours could not work as well and no way easier or better than mine).

BTW you're not special by holding an exclusive title to those characteristics.
....

 

Well...

I know all about keeping it simple. I also know that you dont have to reverse engineer with different thermostats, cancelling hoses, removing throttle body heaters, and all this other money wasted copper fittings to get the system to work 100%.

Problem is, raising it on a hill changes the angle at which the hoses and pipes are pointing. The air then goes up instead of out or possibly slightly down. Best wouldn't know that because he doesn't want to actually stop posting and think from someone else's point of view, experience.

Ask the Rover guy in Carlisle who couldn't get his to bleed, or so thought he did, ran around with 220 fluctuating temps, I bought some parts off if him and bled his Rover in the slope of his yard, he went to 197 and hasn't had a problem that I know of.

Raising the bottle does not allow all the air to come out around the downward slopes like the alternator.

But hey, you guys have been building, fixing, repairing radiators, grew up in a restoration, fabrication shop, and run a state maintenance program right.

One of my friends happened to be a rover tech for 13 years until he quit 2 years ago. I have gotten my fair share of pointers.

I "think", if memory serves me, there's an amount of coolant difference, like a gallon or two, from when the engine was designed in the 60's till now. The older radiators, larger core copper vs aluminum...Rover should have went with a different size rad...larger

 

So with that way of thinking I guess we shouldn't be running green coolant vs dexcool either huh and we shouldn't perform Option B on our ABS Modulators vs just buy a new one? Two of my best friends are 25+ LR Master Techs btw, so they'd know more about old LR's like the D2 vs a LR tech with just 13 years under his belt that started say around the LR3 days = LR's aren't the same now just saying, but whatever man you know best...

There are different ways to do anything like I mentioned with the toilet paper for example, but that does NOT mean it has to be that way every single time. I only swear by my method because I've done it so many times without a single issue & if it isn't broken why fix it??

Not one single time did I ever see a tech working on a P38/D2 cooling system at the LR Dealership go take a HG Job, radiator replacement, waterpump, throttle body replacement (for leaking TBH), busted hose, or adding coolant service ticket around the back or use the LR Off Road coarse to properly bleed the cooling system. The P38/D2 sat 100% flat in the stall, it was either vacuum pumped out & then filled, or coolant was added, vehicle was ran, then shut off, cooled down (while he worked in his second stall), topped, off, ran, and then driven away to be detailed and ready for pickup.

There are way to many factors with thousands of people posting online with "I can't get the air out of my P38/D2 cooling system" from clogged radiators, thermostats (oh and believe me I can't tell you the amount of P38/D2's I've seen with HG Jobs done that they didn't spend the $30.00 to replace the thermostat & went right back to overheating the engine...) to clogged heater cores, but it all comes down to how they add coolant, and try to get the air out. "Normally" all that is needed is a fill, run/drive up to the coolant reaching 195F tops, cool down, top off, drive again, cool down, and "maybe" top off again. I've seen people add coolant, never turn the heater on, never lift the reservoir up above the bleed screw to allow coolant to flow out (if they have the OEM setup) and then let it run until it's at 212F and the E-Fan comes on..... Also with the people that keep getting air "trapped" as they like to say, if that is happening they either have a semi clogged heater core not allowing proper flow, or whenever they initially added coolant, ran it, and it then cooled it is sucking air from somewhere and I hate to say it the #1 LR P38/D2 common area for seepy teenie tiny leaks is either the TBH Plate hoses, the coolant reservoir hard line to hose connections, a cracked lower connection on the coolant reservoir, or the two long phillips screws holding the lower fan shroud on (I cut 1/8 off of those to prevent the radiator from cracking). Any of those spots seep = can also suck air back into the system. Then the person claiming the air pocket = is never going to win that battle. It's not LR magic Shane & I'm sorry, but I've been around LR's since the early 90's and I've seen an awful lot.

 

People drive their rovers all day every day with coolant in the bottle, if you're saying just cool down and add more and you'll never get air bound you're off your rocker. People DO what you're typing and they still get air, how does this remove air if they still have it?


Do you know how many heater cores I've cleaned that didn't need to be cleaned? More than needed it but hey, if people have money to burn. I still am waiting to see a LR radiator that is all gummed up from dexcool, does it happen? Sure, I have to assume it does because people say so, but not as often as people think.


There are 6 Rovers in my area, 5 are D2's, 1 is a D1, we all know each other and we all try to help each other. Problem is, 1 of these particular fellows spends tons of money based off of data he reads here and other places. He thinks every Rover has a slipped sleeve, wont pull out with his pedal anywhere close to half way down because he's afraid of ruining his driveshaft, thinks his rover will over heat every single day, and thinks I have the best luck with everything. Rovers aren't magic, they are actually very simple really so I can agree with you on that.


I don't move my overflow bottle, I don't do much really, except drive up the embankment behind my house that overlooks the river, pop the hood, turn on the heat, give various hoses a squeeze, crack the bleeder on the T, not the front hose (for those still running the bleeder on the front hose get rid of that hose) then I tighten the bleeder, close the hood and drive off. If anyone wants to talk about KISS or keeping it simple, the hill method is much easier and involves less chance of breaking lines, or the bottle, since the have to be removed from the clamps and disturbed.


Happy New year btw.

 

I’m jumping on a cruise ship so I’m done with all this back n forth BS. 6 Rover’s in your area is amazing. I have 6 sitting just outside my house lol.

I’d rather lift a reservoir to find it brittle and needing replaced vs head on on a 2,500 mile trip having no clue your coolant system is about to grenade on you like several customers found out the hard way, but to each their own. You have your method and I have mine THE END... I'm going to purchase that sexy Aluminum D2 Coolant reservoir when I get back from my trip. One more less weak spot to worry about in the D2 cooling system as I probably replaced 4 OEM style reservoirs this summer from cracked lower nipples that slowly got worse and went un-detected until the customers D2's over-heated on them and caused even more damage. I even replaced one on my 02 Kalahari when I detected a small drip upon my pre-flight checks I do with anything I drive. I've seen Dexcool/HOAT turn into the nastiest looking stuff on the planet in Jeep's. I've just seen the goo on the TBH, and inside the thermostat's on D2's. I've probably replaced 2 D2 radiators on my personal LR's and they were fine minus the tank leaks. Dexcool is fine if it's not exposed to the air. Hence the common LR seeping spots I mentioned earlier, and that's where it turns to pepto looking goo.

To the OP Happy New Year & good luck with your LR.

You are 100% mis-reading what I'm saying.... I clearly said and I quote my darn self "I've seen people add coolant, never turn the heater on, never lift the reservoir up above the bleed screw to allow coolant to flow out (if they have the OEM setup)" If you still have the OEM T of coarse you get the air out via lifting the reservoir and opening the bleeder. However I DO NOT do it on vehicles I work on that don't have the OEM T with a bleeder. It depends on the D2 I'm working on and what it's equipped with. On the ones without the OEM T running it/driving it with the heater on up to 195F (or when the thermostat opens), then turning it off until cold, topping off, and repeating does in fact work to remove all the air in the system. You can also go to Harbor Freight and buy the 79.00 kit to vacuum out the coolant and then fill it with a very low chance of any massive air in the system.

P.S. I dunno what has changed with this Forum or my darn iPhone, but geez I can't post images anymore and it bunches my stuff all together & I have to constantly edit my post.

 

Always modifying the scenario to fit your agenda. Can only work on 1 at a time right? One breaks you just hop into another. I can only drive 1 at a time I have no need for 6, mine does just fine.


I'd rather just check the bottle and do a full out inspection and continue to bleed mine on a hill before I go on a trip.

Just remember, what you state here is read by others, with less experience and others with more experience. There's a science to things, a science that can be carried across the board, regardless if you've been around the same thing since the 90's, or if I've been around all kinds of things since the 80's, schools, combat zones, designed certain systems, won awards just because of maintenance...get the drift.


Did you know, that the return line from the TBH trickles into the overflow bottle causing bubbles?


I was being nice when I wished you a happy new year. Oh well.

CYA

 

Happy New Year, actually it's not like that. I don't have 5 personal LR's in case one breaks I just jump into another one. They're all configured differently, and I drive the 99 D2 the most, my 02 Kalahari second, my wife uses the LR3 as her D/D, and the 04 D2 with it's low oil pressure issue isn't going anywhere until I resolve that issue (bought it that way). The 5th and final D2 is my parts truck and it does run, however it has some body damage and it's parts only at this time. I might get a while hair to chop it all up and make a LR Rock buggy, or just sell it as scrap once all the parts are gone.

None of mine do as I live in TX, and our mild winters are nothing vs the extreme heat during the summer. All bypassed with a nice steady flow from the intake to the reservoir via a 5/16 coolant hose with a protective Kingsborne Black Spark Plug boot cover over it protecting it from the exhaust manifold heat.

On a stock setup yep & it causes all kinds of "bubbles" especially when they leak like they do 95% of the time.