No Heat
#31
01-03-2018, 11:40 AM
Pro Wrench
Yes one will be slightly cooler to the touch in a normal operating heater core, but if it’s 100% clogged with zero flow it will be nearly stone cold compared to the other inlet hose.It was 23F out when I checked mine and the inlet (inner metal line from the intake) was pretty much the same temp as the radiator hose with a steady pressure. The outlet line from the core was stone cold, and it had nearly zero pressure in it.Once I flushed my heater core inlet/outlet lines the difference was obvious. You can always use a thermal temp gun if you wanna go all techie, but you should have no problem telling the difference by hand.Heater is good to go & I just finished topping off thru the bleed screw this morning. Zero gurgles, and just nice warm heat!
Simply adding a quart or two to this system can change everything how a Rover cools.
Why are you topping off? How many people here don't? How many people have lost coolant when it got colder? How many people have added coolant lately? There's a thread now where someone needed to add.
How many people have changed their tstat lately, hear the waterfall sound?
I'm not the only one who suggests parking on a hill. If you look around on the forums its been suggested by many people.
How many times has it been posted that they still hear the waterfall after they tried to bleed? Sometimes you don't get all the air.
1-2 quarts of coolant in this system is all that's needed to totally change how the system works. A cup of coolant fit into the system can lower you a couple degrees. If you displace that much coolant in a hose, a pocket, a heater, it makes a world of difference. Yes, its that touchy.
#32
01-03-2018, 11:43 AM
Pro Wrench
#33
01-03-2018, 12:20 PM
Super Moderator
Shane umm what is your deal bro?Let me talk from experience here for a second..... “if” you have an air pocket in the cooling system it doesn’t stay in the same place hence gurgling when accelerating as the bubbles are being pushed thru the system. Even in that case the heater will still put out “some” heat. “If” it is stone cold with no gurgling. In the event the heater core is starting to get clogged but it’s still flowing somewhat you’d once again still have some tiny amount of heat.We are not talking rocket science here shane. Also yes the parking on a hill can help, but you can get the same results by lifting the coolant reservoir.... I’ve done so many 180F thermostat installs, and not on a single one did I ever go find a hill. Run it until it reaches 195F shut it down, let it cool down, top off the coolant, run it up to 195F again, let it cool down once more, then drive it & finally top of if needed. Zero bubbles or gurgles. If that isn’t your cup of tea grab a vacuum kit & evac/fill that way.Also the first link posted had a lovely aluminum T with a bleeder. The other Copper T’s don’t but once again we are replacing a weak plastic part prone to failing with a copper replacement that will not crumble & eventually blow out & leave you with either a blown engine or on the side of the road in the middle of nowhere. I never normally use the bleeder anyways.Even a faulty thermostat would produce some amount of heat to the heater core vs stone cold.
#34
01-03-2018, 12:30 PM
I will agree with Best4x4... But there are more than one ways to get the job done. No sense getting all chest poundie about it.
I have done it several times with the engine cold, lifting the overflow tank, and waiting for a clear stream to come out the bleeder screw. Its a bit messy but it gets you 99% of the way there.
The other 1% of air can be removed by opening the bleed screw when the engine is cold and adding coolant directly through there to displace any air bubble that made its way to the highest point in the system. I have gained 2 to 5 degrees F by topping off through the bleed hole while cold so yes the bleed hole is useful, but it's not the only way, It's just a really good way to know for sure that you have zero air in the system.
I have done it several times with the engine cold, lifting the overflow tank, and waiting for a clear stream to come out the bleeder screw. Its a bit messy but it gets you 99% of the way there.
The other 1% of air can be removed by opening the bleed screw when the engine is cold and adding coolant directly through there to displace any air bubble that made its way to the highest point in the system. I have gained 2 to 5 degrees F by topping off through the bleed hole while cold so yes the bleed hole is useful, but it's not the only way, It's just a really good way to know for sure that you have zero air in the system.
#35
01-03-2018, 12:34 PM
Super Moderator
I will agree with Best4x4... But there are more than one ways to get the job done. No sense getting all chest poundie about it.
I have done it several times with the engine cold, lifting the overflow tank, and waiting for a clear stream to come out the bleeder screw. Its a bit messy but it gets you 99% of the way there.
The other 1% of air can be removed by opening the bleed screw when the engine is cold and adding coolant directly through there to displace any air bubble that made its way to the highest point in the system. I have gained 2 to 5 degrees F by topping off through the bleed hole while cold so yes the bleed hole is useful, but it's not the only way, It's just a really good way to know for sure that you have zero air in the system.
I have done it several times with the engine cold, lifting the overflow tank, and waiting for a clear stream to come out the bleeder screw. Its a bit messy but it gets you 99% of the way there.
The other 1% of air can be removed by opening the bleed screw when the engine is cold and adding coolant directly through there to displace any air bubble that made its way to the highest point in the system. I have gained 2 to 5 degrees F by topping off through the bleed hole while cold so yes the bleed hole is useful, but it's not the only way, It's just a really good way to know for sure that you have zero air in the system.
I used to love the massive bleed tower on the older RRC’s. Pop that sucker off & let it burp. I also liked the little brass coolant jug vs this plastic BS we have now days!
#36
01-03-2018, 04:15 PM
Super Moderator
#37
01-03-2018, 04:58 PM
I have done it several times with the engine cold, lifting the overflow tank, and waiting for a clear stream to come out the bleeder screw. Its a bit messy but it gets you 99% of the way there.
The other 1% of air can be removed by opening the bleed screw when the engine is cold and adding coolant directly through there to displace any air bubble that made its way to the highest point in the system. I have gained 2 to 5 degrees F by topping off through the bleed hole while cold so yes the bleed hole is useful, but it's not the only way, It's just a really good way to know for sure that you have zero air in the system.
The other 1% of air can be removed by opening the bleed screw when the engine is cold and adding coolant directly through there to displace any air bubble that made its way to the highest point in the system. I have gained 2 to 5 degrees F by topping off through the bleed hole while cold so yes the bleed hole is useful, but it's not the only way, It's just a really good way to know for sure that you have zero air in the system.
Most vehicles will loose small amounts of coolant over time due to small liquid seeps and vaporized liquid gassing. These may go unnoticed over time if coolant levels are not checked on a frequent regular basis. Even this slow gradual loss may lead to problems and damage. For years it was done at every fueling in the service station days. Just don't be lazy, check your coolant level because your mother is not going to do it for you.
It is best to go through the fill/bleed procedures in the LR manual after an overheat or lack of heat incident and if you notice a significant drop in your coolant level. (if just lack of heat it could be a clogged heater core)
Procedures Dave03S recommended are basic LR with the addition of the best way to keep your system as air free as possible if done on a regular basis. BTW cold means stone cold as in sitting overnight.
Shade tree procedures of bleeding while hot with the system open may also work as reported? Physics tells me if bled hot/open and system is then closed once it cools there will air in the system. shanechevelle and a couple of other member prefer their own ways. I've never had to resort to those by working smarter.
Happy New year.
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Last edited by number9; 01-03-2018 at 05:03 PM.
#38
01-03-2018, 05:27 PM
Pro Wrench
#39
01-03-2018, 06:13 PM
Camel Trophy
You can also just get a nylon tee at Lowe's. Nylon is good to like 500 degrees. Won't last as long as metal, but a lot cheaper and available if you need a quick fix.
Redrover, how's your power steering? Mine did the same thing ago, screaming like a banshee. Then my power steering stopped working all together. I'm replacing my pump tomorrow with a Chevy unit.
Redrover, how's your power steering? Mine did the same thing ago, screaming like a banshee. Then my power steering stopped working all together. I'm replacing my pump tomorrow with a Chevy unit.
#40
01-03-2018, 07:03 PM
Pro Wrench
Smarter?
If smarter is putting in a copper T with no bleeder onto the factory hose layout...how is elevating the bottle going to remove the air?
The bleeder is there for a reason.
Seems like if raising the bottle was the solution why do so many people report back that it didn't work? Why do people say raising the engine on a hill is what helped?
What's my deal? I know what I'm talking about.
If smarter is putting in a copper T with no bleeder onto the factory hose layout...how is elevating the bottle going to remove the air?
The bleeder is there for a reason.
Seems like if raising the bottle was the solution why do so many people report back that it didn't work? Why do people say raising the engine on a hill is what helped?
What's my deal? I know what I'm talking about.