Noise like Steam locomotive?
Thread Starter
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Three Wheeling
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 87
Likes: 3
Hi
One of my problems with tools is that, when I moved here from the UK back in 1996, I gave most (well all) my tools away to friends and relatives. Tools collected for years but I figured I could get similar ones out here in the USA as and when needed.
Not so it seems, because just as many other differences both major and minor between the two nations, so it is with tools.
As mentioned, valve grinding is still twisting a piece of dowel while I owned the Gunson power tool and have just ordered one via Amazon UK.
Then valve spring compressors... In the UK I had a forged G clamp style device with a end specifically designed to match the top of the valve and the screw in part levering against the head of the valve. It was very firm and positive.
I bought a $25 version from O'Reilly that supposedly grips the spring as the top part presses on the top of the retainer... scary because the part gripping the spring keeps pinging out as pressure is applied. I will persevere but as I mentioned about the stretchy bolts... there has to be a better way!
I can import this unless they are available out here....
One of my problems with tools is that, when I moved here from the UK back in 1996, I gave most (well all) my tools away to friends and relatives. Tools collected for years but I figured I could get similar ones out here in the USA as and when needed.
Not so it seems, because just as many other differences both major and minor between the two nations, so it is with tools.
As mentioned, valve grinding is still twisting a piece of dowel while I owned the Gunson power tool and have just ordered one via Amazon UK.
Then valve spring compressors... In the UK I had a forged G clamp style device with a end specifically designed to match the top of the valve and the screw in part levering against the head of the valve. It was very firm and positive.
I bought a $25 version from O'Reilly that supposedly grips the spring as the top part presses on the top of the retainer... scary because the part gripping the spring keeps pinging out as pressure is applied. I will persevere but as I mentioned about the stretchy bolts... there has to be a better way!
I can import this unless they are available out here....
Last edited by lrguy46; Aug 9, 2015 at 02:39 PM.
Thread Starter
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Three Wheeling
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 87
Likes: 3
Hi
The problem with the version I bought is that the inner section that pushes down the valve retainer also pushes apart the feet gripping the valve spring so it flies off long before enough pressure is applied to press down the retainer...
The problem with the version I bought is that the inner section that pushes down the valve retainer also pushes apart the feet gripping the valve spring so it flies off long before enough pressure is applied to press down the retainer...
Hi
One of my problems with tools is that, when I moved here from the UK back in 1996, I gave most (well all) my tools away to friends and relatives. Tools collected for years but I figured I could get similar ones out here in the USA as and when needed.
Not so it seems, because just as many other differences both major and minor between the two nations, so it is with tools.
As mentioned, valve grinding is still twisting a piece of dowel while I owned the Gunson power tool and have just ordered one via Amazon UK.
Then valve spring compressors... In the UK I had a forged G clamp style device with a end specifically designed to match the top of the valve and the screw in part levering against the head of the valve. It was very firm and positive.
I bought a $25 version from O'Reilly that supposedly grips the spring as the top part presses on the top of the retainer... scary because the part gripping the spring keeps pinging out as pressure is applied. I will persevere but as I mentioned about the stretchy bolts... there has to be a better way!
I can import this unless they are available out here....
One of my problems with tools is that, when I moved here from the UK back in 1996, I gave most (well all) my tools away to friends and relatives. Tools collected for years but I figured I could get similar ones out here in the USA as and when needed.
Not so it seems, because just as many other differences both major and minor between the two nations, so it is with tools.
As mentioned, valve grinding is still twisting a piece of dowel while I owned the Gunson power tool and have just ordered one via Amazon UK.
Then valve spring compressors... In the UK I had a forged G clamp style device with a end specifically designed to match the top of the valve and the screw in part levering against the head of the valve. It was very firm and positive.
I bought a $25 version from O'Reilly that supposedly grips the spring as the top part presses on the top of the retainer... scary because the part gripping the spring keeps pinging out as pressure is applied. I will persevere but as I mentioned about the stretchy bolts... there has to be a better way!
I can import this unless they are available out here....
Sears.com
TReK
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 3,171
Likes: 45
I am of the school that:
Landrover really did try to make the engine to last.
With that noted, the head gaskets are the proven weak point.
The cylinder heads themselves don't seem to be compromised.
Yet when you deck the head at a machine shop the head comes back with some
mm or fraction there of skimmed off.
This raises the compression.
In 30,000 to 50,000 miles then say your head gaskets are bad again
and you keep surfacing the heads..
I ran my D1 with one head gasket job to 160,000 miles and sold it.
Never surfaced the head or lapped the valves.
Sometimes making the job more complicated to "do good" actually does bad.
I am of the school - clean up the heads. Use Victor Rhienz head gaskets,
put in OEM stype stretch studs and have a good say.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/76579732@N07/
Landrover really did try to make the engine to last.
With that noted, the head gaskets are the proven weak point.
The cylinder heads themselves don't seem to be compromised.
Yet when you deck the head at a machine shop the head comes back with some
mm or fraction there of skimmed off.
This raises the compression.
In 30,000 to 50,000 miles then say your head gaskets are bad again
and you keep surfacing the heads..
I ran my D1 with one head gasket job to 160,000 miles and sold it.
Never surfaced the head or lapped the valves.
Sometimes making the job more complicated to "do good" actually does bad.
I am of the school - clean up the heads. Use Victor Rhienz head gaskets,
put in OEM stype stretch studs and have a good say.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/76579732@N07/
Thread Starter
|
Three Wheeling
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 87
Likes: 3
Hi
Landrover original engines may be fine but the Buick based V8 has had a few issues as checking recall data would show.. slipped liners, breaking oil pump shafts, etc., being examples.
The thing is, you can't use one example as an assertion applying to all cars.
Could someone else post whether they had to replace gaskets after 50,000 miles due to skimming heads?
I've been working on car engines for over 50 years and never had "do good" actually does bad".
But the clown that worked on my car before, leaving fasteners off and some crucial bolts less than torque spec, could well cause a premature issue.
Every case is individual, you are happy with your repair and I will be happy with mine. I have hit a few hiccups en route and this is the first time I have dabbled with this motor but I know it will run like a sewing machine when I've finished.
Landrover original engines may be fine but the Buick based V8 has had a few issues as checking recall data would show.. slipped liners, breaking oil pump shafts, etc., being examples.
The thing is, you can't use one example as an assertion applying to all cars.
Could someone else post whether they had to replace gaskets after 50,000 miles due to skimming heads?
I've been working on car engines for over 50 years and never had "do good" actually does bad".
But the clown that worked on my car before, leaving fasteners off and some crucial bolts less than torque spec, could well cause a premature issue.
Every case is individual, you are happy with your repair and I will be happy with mine. I have hit a few hiccups en route and this is the first time I have dabbled with this motor but I know it will run like a sewing machine when I've finished.
I am of the school that:
Landrover really did try to make the engine to last.
With that noted, the head gaskets are the proven weak point.
The cylinder heads themselves don't seem to be compromised.
Yet when you deck the head at a machine shop the head comes back with some
mm or fraction there of skimmed off.
This raises the compression.
In 30,000 to 50,000 miles then say your head gaskets are bad again
and you keep surfacing the heads..
I ran my D1 with one head gasket job to 160,000 miles and sold it.
Never surfaced the head or lapped the valves.
Sometimes making the job more complicated to "do good" actually does bad.
I am of the school - clean up the heads. Use Victor Rhienz head gaskets,
put in OEM stype stretch studs and have a good say.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/76579732@N07/
Landrover really did try to make the engine to last.
With that noted, the head gaskets are the proven weak point.
The cylinder heads themselves don't seem to be compromised.
Yet when you deck the head at a machine shop the head comes back with some
mm or fraction there of skimmed off.
This raises the compression.
In 30,000 to 50,000 miles then say your head gaskets are bad again
and you keep surfacing the heads..
I ran my D1 with one head gasket job to 160,000 miles and sold it.
Never surfaced the head or lapped the valves.
Sometimes making the job more complicated to "do good" actually does bad.
I am of the school - clean up the heads. Use Victor Rhienz head gaskets,
put in OEM stype stretch studs and have a good say.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/76579732@N07/
Thread Starter
|
Three Wheeling
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 87
Likes: 3
Hi
After more delays due to family and work distractions, I got back to working on the Discovery's cylinder head overhaul.
I drove to Sears and bought their valve spring compressor tool for $17.94 which is the bargain of the century. It also works extremely well once you set it for the optimal setting for the particular head and is much better then the G clamp style I used in the UK because of the time screwing the thread in and out versus the Sear's quick operating lever principle.
I should have hung around in Sears a bit longer as I discovered that neither O'Reilly or Autozone sell fine and coarse grinding paste... just a generic tube by Permatex that gives no clue as to its degree of coarseness.
So I will clean up the heads and pick up the fine/coarse product from Sears during the week.
I contemplated using various chemicals and sprays to clean off the heads grease and oil but decided to turn the clock back a few decades and use gasoline, albeit with protective gloves this time.
Once cleaned off, I will look at clearing out ports, etc.
One thing I am pondering is valve clearances... in the past, in alphabetical order, I have worked on engines by Austin, BMW, Commer/Dodge, Ford, Hillman, MG, Morris, Singer, Sunbeam, etc., and all had adjustable valve clearances.
Not so the Rover V8 that uses hydraulic tappets but I wonder as to their effectiveness after 120,000 miles. Rimmer Brothers sell adjustable length push pods to accurately set the pre load but presumably the engine has to be fully assembled except for the valve covers so the engine can start to pressurize the tappets, etc., before you can adjust them...
Rover V8 Push Rod - Adjustable Engine Set at www.rimmerbros.co.uk
Maybe I am over thinking this and the hydraulic tappets accommodate any wear....
After more delays due to family and work distractions, I got back to working on the Discovery's cylinder head overhaul.
I drove to Sears and bought their valve spring compressor tool for $17.94 which is the bargain of the century. It also works extremely well once you set it for the optimal setting for the particular head and is much better then the G clamp style I used in the UK because of the time screwing the thread in and out versus the Sear's quick operating lever principle.
I should have hung around in Sears a bit longer as I discovered that neither O'Reilly or Autozone sell fine and coarse grinding paste... just a generic tube by Permatex that gives no clue as to its degree of coarseness.
So I will clean up the heads and pick up the fine/coarse product from Sears during the week.
I contemplated using various chemicals and sprays to clean off the heads grease and oil but decided to turn the clock back a few decades and use gasoline, albeit with protective gloves this time.
Once cleaned off, I will look at clearing out ports, etc.
One thing I am pondering is valve clearances... in the past, in alphabetical order, I have worked on engines by Austin, BMW, Commer/Dodge, Ford, Hillman, MG, Morris, Singer, Sunbeam, etc., and all had adjustable valve clearances.
Not so the Rover V8 that uses hydraulic tappets but I wonder as to their effectiveness after 120,000 miles. Rimmer Brothers sell adjustable length push pods to accurately set the pre load but presumably the engine has to be fully assembled except for the valve covers so the engine can start to pressurize the tappets, etc., before you can adjust them...
Rover V8 Push Rod - Adjustable Engine Set at www.rimmerbros.co.uk
Maybe I am over thinking this and the hydraulic tappets accommodate any wear....
Camel Trophy
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 3,717
Likes: 248
From: Longview, Texas
Hi
After more delays due to family and work distractions, I got back to working on the Discovery's cylinder head overhaul.
I drove to Sears and bought their valve spring compressor tool for $17.94 which is the bargain of the century. It also works extremely well once you set it for the optimal setting for the particular head and is much better then the G clamp style I used in the UK because of the time screwing the thread in and out versus the Sear's quick operating lever principle.
I should have hung around in Sears a bit longer as I discovered that neither O'Reilly or Autozone sell fine and coarse grinding paste... just a generic tube by Permatex that gives no clue as to its degree of coarseness.
So I will clean up the heads and pick up the fine/coarse product from Sears during the week.
I contemplated using various chemicals and sprays to clean off the heads grease and oil but decided to turn the clock back a few decades and use gasoline, albeit with protective gloves this time.
Once cleaned off, I will look at clearing out ports, etc.
One thing I am pondering is valve clearances... in the past, in alphabetical order, I have worked on engines by Austin, BMW, Commer/Dodge, Ford, Hillman, MG, Morris, Singer, Sunbeam, etc., and all had adjustable valve clearances.
Not so the Rover V8 that uses hydraulic tappets but I wonder as to their effectiveness after 120,000 miles. Rimmer Brothers sell adjustable length push pods to accurately set the pre load but presumably the engine has to be fully assembled except for the valve covers so the engine can start to pressurize the tappets, etc., before you can adjust them...
Rover V8 Push Rod - Adjustable Engine Set at www.rimmerbros.co.uk
Maybe I am over thinking this and the hydraulic tappets accommodate any wear....
After more delays due to family and work distractions, I got back to working on the Discovery's cylinder head overhaul.
I drove to Sears and bought their valve spring compressor tool for $17.94 which is the bargain of the century. It also works extremely well once you set it for the optimal setting for the particular head and is much better then the G clamp style I used in the UK because of the time screwing the thread in and out versus the Sear's quick operating lever principle.
I should have hung around in Sears a bit longer as I discovered that neither O'Reilly or Autozone sell fine and coarse grinding paste... just a generic tube by Permatex that gives no clue as to its degree of coarseness.
So I will clean up the heads and pick up the fine/coarse product from Sears during the week.
I contemplated using various chemicals and sprays to clean off the heads grease and oil but decided to turn the clock back a few decades and use gasoline, albeit with protective gloves this time.
Once cleaned off, I will look at clearing out ports, etc.
One thing I am pondering is valve clearances... in the past, in alphabetical order, I have worked on engines by Austin, BMW, Commer/Dodge, Ford, Hillman, MG, Morris, Singer, Sunbeam, etc., and all had adjustable valve clearances.
Not so the Rover V8 that uses hydraulic tappets but I wonder as to their effectiveness after 120,000 miles. Rimmer Brothers sell adjustable length push pods to accurately set the pre load but presumably the engine has to be fully assembled except for the valve covers so the engine can start to pressurize the tappets, etc., before you can adjust them...
Rover V8 Push Rod - Adjustable Engine Set at www.rimmerbros.co.uk
Maybe I am over thinking this and the hydraulic tappets accommodate any wear....
Thread Starter
|
Three Wheeling
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 87
Likes: 3
Hi
Returning to a prior issue where the wiring loom was a congealed blob on the back of the driver's side cylinder head and I had to hacksaw it off to be able to remove the head...
Well, it was a pig to remove and it was obvious I was cutting through steel rather than pvc and copper and, as you can see from the photo, I did indeed cut through the head of a bolt.
It's a bit mangled but it looks like there was a clip or retainer under the bolt so could someone who has trod this path before, please tell me what the function of this bolt was..???
It can't have been to retain the loom....
Returning to a prior issue where the wiring loom was a congealed blob on the back of the driver's side cylinder head and I had to hacksaw it off to be able to remove the head...
Well, it was a pig to remove and it was obvious I was cutting through steel rather than pvc and copper and, as you can see from the photo, I did indeed cut through the head of a bolt.
It's a bit mangled but it looks like there was a clip or retainer under the bolt so could someone who has trod this path before, please tell me what the function of this bolt was..???
It can't have been to retain the loom....
