Noise like Steam locomotive?
If I had to venture a guess, I would think that Sea Foam Spray - Sea Foam Sales Company would be the most similar product? I know for a fact that Deep Creep - Sea Foam Sales Company removes carbon as there was a Ford TSB that recommended it for the Triton engines when removing spark plugs. It is extremely common for those plugs to break off in the cylinder due to carbon build up. I used it on a neighbor's Excursion when changing plugs and none broke. The ceramic on the plugs had liquified carbon on it after we removed them. It wiped off with a finger.
I wouldn't recommend it for anything internal on an engine though.
The Deep Creep has replaced PB Blaster as my penetrant spray.
I wouldn't recommend it for anything internal on an engine though.
The Deep Creep has replaced PB Blaster as my penetrant spray.
Yes, back when I did this more regularly than now, I used a rotary wire brush in a flexible drive from an electric drill to clean the carbon from the cylinder head and I was hoping for a magic spray that dissolved it and I rubbed it off with a nylon toothbrush.
Mind you, having read comics in the 1950s where we would all be driving flying cars by 1999, I'm getting used to hoping for stuff that is harder to get than you'd think!
I never ground the valves or resurfaced my heads.
I cleaned them up and put them back on.
Used Victor Rhienz head gaskets.
My D2 went 10,000 miles after my head gasket job and it was time to let a new owner enjoy it.
Just use a 1/2 inch Sears breaker bar - Solid bar with just a swivel.
Paint the new head bolts with a paint stripe across the bolt faces.
Use a piece of iron pipe.
Or the removable handle from a floor jack to slip over the breaker bar.
You need about 4 feet of pipe at least for the leverage to tighten the new head bolts.
And even at 4 to 5 feet of solid iron pipe slipped over the breaker bar it is hard work.
I cleaned them up and put them back on.
Used Victor Rhienz head gaskets.
My D2 went 10,000 miles after my head gasket job and it was time to let a new owner enjoy it.
Just use a 1/2 inch Sears breaker bar - Solid bar with just a swivel.
Paint the new head bolts with a paint stripe across the bolt faces.
Use a piece of iron pipe.
Or the removable handle from a floor jack to slip over the breaker bar.
You need about 4 feet of pipe at least for the leverage to tighten the new head bolts.
And even at 4 to 5 feet of solid iron pipe slipped over the breaker bar it is hard work.
Hi
Everyone has different thoughts on head work but I'm from the old school, and am keeping the car, so I want the engine to be better when I put it back together with everything perfectly machined and gas tight.
That said, the car took a back burner with work and family issues taking priority so it was Saturday evening I removed the final couple of screws to remove the driver side cylinder head...
You will recall my comments about finding evidence of shoddy prior repairs, well tonight I found a doozy that is the equivalent in surgery to a heart valve operation...
The previous fixer did not tie back the wiring loom so all this time it was pressed against the rear of the cylinder head and it's a congealed mess that is a bugger to release from the head. Lord knows what it has done to the wiring but it's going to be like surgery to remove it so i can pull the head away....
It's dark now so Sunday I will gently saw through that mess to release the head... then I have to cut open that loom and check the damage to the interior wiring, cutting back and replacing sections as necessary.
Everyone has different thoughts on head work but I'm from the old school, and am keeping the car, so I want the engine to be better when I put it back together with everything perfectly machined and gas tight.
That said, the car took a back burner with work and family issues taking priority so it was Saturday evening I removed the final couple of screws to remove the driver side cylinder head...
You will recall my comments about finding evidence of shoddy prior repairs, well tonight I found a doozy that is the equivalent in surgery to a heart valve operation...
The previous fixer did not tie back the wiring loom so all this time it was pressed against the rear of the cylinder head and it's a congealed mess that is a bugger to release from the head. Lord knows what it has done to the wiring but it's going to be like surgery to remove it so i can pull the head away....
It's dark now so Sunday I will gently saw through that mess to release the head... then I have to cut open that loom and check the damage to the interior wiring, cutting back and replacing sections as necessary.
Last edited by lrguy46; Aug 8, 2015 at 10:15 PM. Reason: What I will do....
That's a real bummer. There is supposed to be a keeper for your spark plug wires back there but I don't recall anything that specifically holds that part of the harness (where it goes down, by the coils).
On a positive note, your springs and what I can see in the valve cover look awesome to me.
On a positive note, your springs and what I can see in the valve cover look awesome to me.
Hi
Sunday morning and a new fine tooth hacksaw blade. That was a @#$& to saw through being at the rear of the engine and everything in the way, and I assumed the cylinder heads were identical but it was like I was cutting through steel with that saw, not molten pvc and copper wire, like the head of a bolt. Anyway, later I will cut open this loom and check the damage but in the meantime I have heads to sort out.
Sunday morning and a new fine tooth hacksaw blade. That was a @#$& to saw through being at the rear of the engine and everything in the way, and I assumed the cylinder heads were identical but it was like I was cutting through steel with that saw, not molten pvc and copper wire, like the head of a bolt. Anyway, later I will cut open this loom and check the damage but in the meantime I have heads to sort out.


