Noise like Steam locomotive?
Rock Crawling
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 332
Likes: 17
From: Northern Michigan
Check that.... You're talking about 1/4 inch drive for the rocker cover bolts, and you'll want 1/2 inch drive for the caliper bolts. I use a 35 or 40 year old Craftsman 5/16 12 point 1/4 inch drive socket on my rocker cover bolts. Works perfectly.
Mudding
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 191
Likes: 10
Hi
My 2004 Series 2 Discovery with 4.6 litre V8 has suddenly started making a noise not too distant from a steam locomotive.
It's still running OK (apart from the noise) with no obvious misfiring and the water temperature is normal.
I'm at work and a brief look under the hood seems to imply the noise is on the right side of the engine (looking forward from the rear of the car) and, putting my hand as close as I dare, I could not feel hot gas escaping from the joint with the manifold to the catalytic converter pipe section.
Might it be a manifold to head issue? I won't be able to look at it properly until the weekend...
Thanks for any help
Geoff
My 2004 Series 2 Discovery with 4.6 litre V8 has suddenly started making a noise not too distant from a steam locomotive.
It's still running OK (apart from the noise) with no obvious misfiring and the water temperature is normal.
I'm at work and a brief look under the hood seems to imply the noise is on the right side of the engine (looking forward from the rear of the car) and, putting my hand as close as I dare, I could not feel hot gas escaping from the joint with the manifold to the catalytic converter pipe section.
Might it be a manifold to head issue? I won't be able to look at it properly until the weekend...
Thanks for any help
Geoff
Thread Starter
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Three Wheeling
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 87
Likes: 3
Hi
There are some pretty good videos on YouTube that demonstrate the sound. I'm in the process of stripping it down, quite a learning curve on this engine, and handicaps include me being almost 70 (bar a few months), not as fit as I was, California temperatures in the high 80's, but using a 12" electric fan next to where I'm working and a huge umbrella, like you use for a garden table, to provide shade from the midday sun!
There are some pretty good videos on YouTube that demonstrate the sound. I'm in the process of stripping it down, quite a learning curve on this engine, and handicaps include me being almost 70 (bar a few months), not as fit as I was, California temperatures in the high 80's, but using a 12" electric fan next to where I'm working and a huge umbrella, like you use for a garden table, to provide shade from the midday sun!
Thread Starter
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Three Wheeling
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 87
Likes: 3
I spent $60 on a full set of 12 point sockets in a set that included sae as well as metric. It's 3/8" drive which is a headache latching on to the rocker cover screws even with a u/j directly above the socket.
As I want to get this done I haven't time to hunt around for a 1/4" 12 point drive set but, if this proves impractical with my 3/8" set, I may have to.
Yup, pain in the ***, I'm off to see what Sears has...
Not a lot, it seemed after a 22 mile round trip. But they had a 1/4" drive 12 point in SAE and I found 5/16" close enough to pull the rocker covers off.
More evidence of bodging was the dipstick holder was held to the rocker cover with a wood screw!
So got both rocker covers off and here's where my car and the workshop manual differ...
The workshop manual says to remove the pas pulley by undoing the three screws....except on my car the water pump is the three screw pulley and the pas pulley has a single large nut holding it on. I suspect it's 19mm and I have a socket that size.... just have to stop the pulley rotating....
For the record, I hope my tales of woe help anyone about to undertake this heads off procedure. It's certainly been a learning curve for me and my toolkit gets larger every day!
Last edited by lrguy46; Jul 26, 2015 at 04:53 PM.
Camel Trophy
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 3,717
Likes: 248
From: Longview, Texas
Hi
I spent $60 on a full set of 12 point sockets in a set that included sae as well as metric. It's 3/8" drive which is a headache latching on to the rocker cover screws even with a u/j directly above the socket.
As I want to get this done I haven't time to hunt around for a 1/4" 12 point drive set but, if this proves impractical with my 3/8" set, I may have to.
Yup, pain in the ***, I'm off to see what Sears has...
Not a lot, it seemed after a 22 mile round trip. But they had a 1/4" drive 12 point in SAE and I found 5/16" close enough to pull the rocker covers off.
More evidence of bodging was the dipstick holder was held to the rocker cover with a wood screw!
So got both rocker covers off and here's where my car and the workshop manual differ...
The workshop manual says to remove the pas pulley by undoing the three screws....except on my car the water pump is the three screw pulley and the pas pulley has a single large nut holding it on. I suspect it's 19mm and I have a socket that size.... just have to stop the pulley rotating....
For the record, I hope my tales of woe help anyone about to undertake this heads off procedure. It's certainly been a learning curve for me and my toolkit gets larger every day!
I spent $60 on a full set of 12 point sockets in a set that included sae as well as metric. It's 3/8" drive which is a headache latching on to the rocker cover screws even with a u/j directly above the socket.
As I want to get this done I haven't time to hunt around for a 1/4" 12 point drive set but, if this proves impractical with my 3/8" set, I may have to.
Yup, pain in the ***, I'm off to see what Sears has...
Not a lot, it seemed after a 22 mile round trip. But they had a 1/4" drive 12 point in SAE and I found 5/16" close enough to pull the rocker covers off.
More evidence of bodging was the dipstick holder was held to the rocker cover with a wood screw!
So got both rocker covers off and here's where my car and the workshop manual differ...
The workshop manual says to remove the pas pulley by undoing the three screws....except on my car the water pump is the three screw pulley and the pas pulley has a single large nut holding it on. I suspect it's 19mm and I have a socket that size.... just have to stop the pulley rotating....
For the record, I hope my tales of woe help anyone about to undertake this heads off procedure. It's certainly been a learning curve for me and my toolkit gets larger every day!
Camel Trophy
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 3,717
Likes: 248
From: Longview, Texas
I'd also add a caution. I cracked one of my pulleys one time using a really long screw driver and that pulley for leverage. Don't repeat my rookie mistake... keep the leverage on the screws because they are much easier and cheaper to replace.
Thread Starter
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Three Wheeling
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 87
Likes: 3
Hi
Murphy's law (I was tired) I took the three screw pulley off (as instructed by the manual) before I saw it was the water pump! I undid screws levering against other screws but the last one was a @#$% to remove.... then I saw I didn't need to....
The PAS pulley I wedged a tommy bar through a hole against the engine and used a bigger bar to release the nut.
I don't know why Rover could not have located the engine a couple of inches further from the bulkhead... that ignition coil pack would be a @#$% to change plug leads where it is. I will certainly change them before I reassemble everything.
I'm English... moved to the USA in 1996... and decades ago when younger and fitter I took a lot of engines to pieces but back then it was 4 cylinders and carburettors and distributors... a lot easier to fix.
But back then I used to use red Hermetite spread really thinly on joints. I gather it's hard to find now and folk are using HYLOTYTE Red 100.... what are opinions on using these?
Also, I noticed Rimmer are selling studs and nuts to replace these stretchy head bolts... what are opinions on this system? I wondered how easy it would be to slide the heads over studs as there's not a lot of room in that engine bay, albeit it does seem a nicer way to torque stuff down...
Murphy's law (I was tired) I took the three screw pulley off (as instructed by the manual) before I saw it was the water pump! I undid screws levering against other screws but the last one was a @#$% to remove.... then I saw I didn't need to....
The PAS pulley I wedged a tommy bar through a hole against the engine and used a bigger bar to release the nut.
I don't know why Rover could not have located the engine a couple of inches further from the bulkhead... that ignition coil pack would be a @#$% to change plug leads where it is. I will certainly change them before I reassemble everything.
I'm English... moved to the USA in 1996... and decades ago when younger and fitter I took a lot of engines to pieces but back then it was 4 cylinders and carburettors and distributors... a lot easier to fix.
But back then I used to use red Hermetite spread really thinly on joints. I gather it's hard to find now and folk are using HYLOTYTE Red 100.... what are opinions on using these?
Also, I noticed Rimmer are selling studs and nuts to replace these stretchy head bolts... what are opinions on this system? I wondered how easy it would be to slide the heads over studs as there's not a lot of room in that engine bay, albeit it does seem a nicer way to torque stuff down...
TReK
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 3,171
Likes: 45
Please take my advice very carefully.
1) Get a 5/8" BLACK inpact socket for the head bolts.
2) Get a 1/4 inch short extension - 2 inches long.
3) Get an impact grade swivel for the socket
4) Get a 6 inch extension.
Use Craftsman - if you break them they replace them - for the swivel and the extensions
the socket 5/8" must be black impact.
Use 5/8 as it fits very snug.
Never force off exhaust manifold bolts.
You don't need to take the manifolds off the bottom at the Y pipe. Leave that all alone.
Tie the manifolds back.
To put this back on - get a large breaker bar.
Put paint on a stripe on the bolt face to account for the turning 90 degrees and 90 again.
Only use victor Rhienz head gaskets.
Use a shop vac to get ALL water and antifreeze OUT of the head bolt holes.
Don't rush.
Take pictures of EVERYTHING when it is coming apart as here.
You will need those to get it back together.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/76579732@N07/
1) Get a 5/8" BLACK inpact socket for the head bolts.
2) Get a 1/4 inch short extension - 2 inches long.
3) Get an impact grade swivel for the socket
4) Get a 6 inch extension.
Use Craftsman - if you break them they replace them - for the swivel and the extensions
the socket 5/8" must be black impact.
Use 5/8 as it fits very snug.
Never force off exhaust manifold bolts.
You don't need to take the manifolds off the bottom at the Y pipe. Leave that all alone.
Tie the manifolds back.
To put this back on - get a large breaker bar.
Put paint on a stripe on the bolt face to account for the turning 90 degrees and 90 again.
Only use victor Rhienz head gaskets.
Use a shop vac to get ALL water and antifreeze OUT of the head bolt holes.
Don't rush.
Take pictures of EVERYTHING when it is coming apart as here.
You will need those to get it back together.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/76579732@N07/
