I am trying to track down a source to purchase the kit for my '99 D2. Also, does the kit come with 20 inserts (10 left and 10 right)?

My indy shop (Which will NEVER again, so much as add air to my tires) really did a job on my kids truck and I am really pissed. I sent to have head gasket replaced, because I didn't have time to change them before his 16th birthday (Wished I had made time). So......I get the truck back and they over torqued the head bolts and of course when I asked him he said the engine had just been over heated too bad. (This is a crock). 7 of the 10 left sides were stripped. he then heli coiled them and within 350 miles the HG started leaking again. Come to find out, he used crush gaskets, which normally isnt a big deal, unless you realize OH ****! We over torqued the head bolts and now we need to helicoil. So they pull off the head to helicoil. This is where it REALLY goes bad., #1 the re-used the crushed gaskets #2 the re-used the original head bolts. Let me say that again, they RE-USED THE ORIGINAL HEAD BOLTS. No freaking wonder the GD block stripped. Now, the plan is to re-tap with NS300L kit, install ARP head bolts and replace all of the gaskets. and Step 2 of my plan is to make sure this jack wagon never turns a wrench on a Land Rover again, he turned a $1700 repair into a $4000 repair, then tried to blame it on me. He said I drove it too soon after repairs. WHISKEY TANGO FOXTROT???? too soon after repairs? The truck sat on his lot for 2 weeks after he said it was done, because I was out of town. Then I drove it for about 300 miles never letting it get over 2500RPM if I could avoid it. 347 miles after repairs poof (literally). I got the tell tale chugging of a leaking head. I have since gone and purchased my kid an SVT Focus to get him back and forth to school while we work on the weekend warrior. Sorry to rant.

 

I have never done the job, but one of the techs I work with has and he uses TimeSerts.

But, he always tells the customer that this is a last attempt to save their block and very likely it could crack the block or go into the coolant passage. Especially at the rear cylinders where the space between bolt holes and coolant passage is minimal. From the sounds of this shop they probably already screwed the block up beyond repair.

I know you are going to get a lot of tis, but I think you need to report this garage and file a claim for a new motor.

If you go in and try to fix what they did, you might cover up their faulty work and essentially erase the evidence that would be reviewed in your claim.

Good luck.

 

They have been reported, which is why I have not mentioned the name on here. Just so happens, that my next door neighbor/VERY CLOSE friend, is very high up on Chamber of Commerce and is an elected official. My wager is they will be closed down in the next couple of months.

 

I guess the real problem is how do you get a new motor before they close shop?

Ill try to find the source for the Timeserts

 

Yeah these guys are a joke! Here is a list of items that happened from this shot that I reported to BBB and my Chamber of Commerce.

1. Upon receiving truck back 12 miles away from shop oil cooler line blew off. Because they didn't snap the fitting back on. He said, yeah that sometimes happens. Seriously?!
2. He refused to change the exhaust header gaskets, because he said they would just go bad and start leaking within the month. ????
3. After getting CEL for leaking head, I got P0306, P0300 and P0305. So I was just trouble shooting and found my friggen coil pack just floating around behind the intake. When I confronted him about it, he said it was that way when he got it and nobody sells the mounting bolts anymore. I said "that's funny, do they look like this? (showing him my unopened Atlantic British pack)
4. Found out he re-used the original Head bolts, not once, not twice but 3 friggen times. (Original HG job, followed by heli-coiling after realizing they stripped the block, then after warranty to fix, yet again <-- last time the truck went back). No wonder the block stripped
5. Finally, they re-used the crush head gaskets after torquing them down, not once but twice. Probably why my HG is leaking again.

Now, I picked these guys because they have loads of Discoveries in front of their shop and I am new to the area. So I asked some people (found out after I paid for service and picked up the first time that they were employees or friends of employees) about their expertise. They said this is the best shop in the area. When I went to get truck, these same people I asked while at an off road swap meet, were either working in the shop or smoking behind the shop with the employees. Funny thing is, when I asked about the 7 Discoveries, 2 P38s and a D110, that I assumed were customers cars, I find out they are all personal vehicles, none of which run, they move them around alot to make it look like they always have a LR job to attract work. I ran into a guy that knows his stuff and is helping me fix this crap, told me they lost their big shop and had to downsize after some shady work they did.

 

There it is.

 

You sir, are awesome

 

Good luck, I do not envy the job you have ahead of you.

 

What length and should I get carbon steel or Stainless? Keep in mind I will be using ARP head studs. Thanks for your help

 

That photo is of the kit in my friends tool box who has done it many times, When I look up that exact kit it references .6 for length. I'm guessing carbon steel as that's what the inserts I saw looked like. He only uses ARP.