Off to see an '03....
#61
09-18-2014, 08:11 AM
Sorry I didn't realize we were talking about your vehicle. I thought we were on the 04 for $9,000.... that the OP was looking at?
An engine does not have to be overheating at the time of the tick, but usually overheated in the past and resulted in a sleeve (the ones not pressed all the way down) to loose their grip and start to move up and down.
Sleeves can move without a coolant leak.... a cracked block or cracked sleeve or pin hole in the sleeve are what cause the internal leaking.... a slipping sleeve and a cracked block/liner are two different problems which can sometimes be in conjunction and sometimes not.
About piston skirt and wrist pin wear, I'm sure that can be true but, why is it you can move a crank, rods and pistons from a ticker into another block with the liners sitting down where they are supposed to be sitting and the ticking doesn't follow? with same pistons and wrist pins? any ideas on that one?
and how would a 180 grey thermostat cure piston slap or worn wrist pins as that has stopped the ticking in some cases? If the engine runs cooler the block doesn't expand as much and loose liners don't move as much....In SOME cases.
I'm not here to argue with you or john just trying to help the OP from getting screwed but, maybe it would be a healthy debate for another thread....where some others can voice their opinions or experiences without us cluttering up the OP's thread.
An engine does not have to be overheating at the time of the tick, but usually overheated in the past and resulted in a sleeve (the ones not pressed all the way down) to loose their grip and start to move up and down.
Sleeves can move without a coolant leak.... a cracked block or cracked sleeve or pin hole in the sleeve are what cause the internal leaking.... a slipping sleeve and a cracked block/liner are two different problems which can sometimes be in conjunction and sometimes not.
About piston skirt and wrist pin wear, I'm sure that can be true but, why is it you can move a crank, rods and pistons from a ticker into another block with the liners sitting down where they are supposed to be sitting and the ticking doesn't follow? with same pistons and wrist pins? any ideas on that one?
and how would a 180 grey thermostat cure piston slap or worn wrist pins as that has stopped the ticking in some cases? If the engine runs cooler the block doesn't expand as much and loose liners don't move as much....In SOME cases.
I'm not here to argue with you or john just trying to help the OP from getting screwed but, maybe it would be a healthy debate for another thread....where some others can voice their opinions or experiences without us cluttering up the OP's thread.
#62
09-18-2014, 10:15 AM
To bring this thread full circle, If you are shopping for a Disco, '03 or otherwise, This kind of ticking is indicative of a past overheating issue at the very least.
Don't think it will be a simple or cheap fix even if you get the truck cheap enough.
You might get lucky, but go in knowing you are taking a gamble.
If you already own a truck with this tick, there are plenty of threads on the topic as mentioned.
Don't think it will be a simple or cheap fix even if you get the truck cheap enough.
You might get lucky, but go in knowing you are taking a gamble.
If you already own a truck with this tick, there are plenty of threads on the topic as mentioned.
#63
09-18-2014, 07:20 PM
#65
09-18-2014, 07:58 PM
Private seller. Only the second one I saw that didn't have significant fluid leaks of some form.
95k miles. 2 owners. First had it religiously serviced with LR.
Very tidy and clean. PO a bit OCD. He wasn't a mechanic. But it looks looked after, nothing snapped or broken, and with applying Mikes list of maintenance I reckon I can bring it into line to be really solid.
I saw the Amigos on the test drive. But not since. Ordered a abs modulator unit anyway. PO says they are a fairly new sight. Drove it about 60 miles home. Joy to drive. Maybe a slight vibration passing 75mph. But very straight. Takes off great for a big truck. Stops really well. Was really surprised how stable it is in corners. Doesn't feel right to be that high up, and still level round a corner!
Liner slightly dropping. Owner admitted to slight sunroof leak. All already researched
Dexcool to get rid off. 180 stat to fit. Not sure of temps yet. UG on its way.
Slightly disappointed it's not SE. After sitting in so many the leather and arm rests do make a difference. Already wondering if I can swap seats for those tan ones with black piping!
Seller was cheeky and asked 7500. After pointing everything out I offered 6k. We settled on 6,250.
I know, I know. Did I over spend? But it gets to a point where I have to throw my hat in the ring with something. The only other one that I liked enough to consider I had to un-consider it when it was obvious it was probably stolen. Having considered at least 15 vehicles I'm pretty sure the market prices here in NY must be simply higher than the rest of the country. Don't know.
So, thanks to everyone. I've spent an obnoxious amount of time reading around here. And have far more to do.
Many more questions to come. And I look forward to maybe helping out some folks that come along in my shoes. I might even write a little write up of buying one of these things actually. It's been a journey.
Chris.
95k miles. 2 owners. First had it religiously serviced with LR.
Very tidy and clean. PO a bit OCD. He wasn't a mechanic. But it looks looked after, nothing snapped or broken, and with applying Mikes list of maintenance I reckon I can bring it into line to be really solid.
I saw the Amigos on the test drive. But not since. Ordered a abs modulator unit anyway. PO says they are a fairly new sight. Drove it about 60 miles home. Joy to drive. Maybe a slight vibration passing 75mph. But very straight. Takes off great for a big truck. Stops really well. Was really surprised how stable it is in corners. Doesn't feel right to be that high up, and still level round a corner!
Liner slightly dropping. Owner admitted to slight sunroof leak. All already researched
Dexcool to get rid off. 180 stat to fit. Not sure of temps yet. UG on its way.
Slightly disappointed it's not SE. After sitting in so many the leather and arm rests do make a difference. Already wondering if I can swap seats for those tan ones with black piping!
Seller was cheeky and asked 7500. After pointing everything out I offered 6k. We settled on 6,250.
I know, I know. Did I over spend? But it gets to a point where I have to throw my hat in the ring with something. The only other one that I liked enough to consider I had to un-consider it when it was obvious it was probably stolen. Having considered at least 15 vehicles I'm pretty sure the market prices here in NY must be simply higher than the rest of the country. Don't know.
So, thanks to everyone. I've spent an obnoxious amount of time reading around here. And have far more to do.
Many more questions to come. And I look forward to maybe helping out some folks that come along in my shoes. I might even write a little write up of buying one of these things actually. It's been a journey.
Chris.
#66
09-18-2014, 08:24 PM
Recovery Vehicle
#68
09-19-2014, 12:46 AM
Ewww... Chawton White... My misery repeated, lol...
(Only "b***ch" about Sir Miles AxleRod is the Chawton white he is sprayed in....)
Congrats.. Envious of those tail-light guards, I may not be using WalMart lens tape had I had those the day I dropped him onto a cliff on the Driverside. ( I'll never run Super Swampers again...! between that and they tried to kill me, I'm like so over the Brand... lol)
Daylight pics are needed, and if you have the split 5 spoke 18's... I'm a gunning for you.... I wouldn't be running S-10 wheels had I had those, as my inner vanity would have trumped sanity, and I would have spent the money on 18" Mud Terrains in a metric size.
(Only "b***ch" about Sir Miles AxleRod is the Chawton white he is sprayed in....)
Congrats.. Envious of those tail-light guards, I may not be using WalMart lens tape had I had those the day I dropped him onto a cliff on the Driverside. ( I'll never run Super Swampers again...! between that and they tried to kill me, I'm like so over the Brand... lol)
Daylight pics are needed, and if you have the split 5 spoke 18's... I'm a gunning for you.... I wouldn't be running S-10 wheels had I had those, as my inner vanity would have trumped sanity, and I would have spent the money on 18" Mud Terrains in a metric size.
#69
09-19-2014, 05:57 PM
Out with the old. In with the new.
So, it has springs on the back. Never even checked. I assumed they all came with bags. Nothing mentioned ever about a swap. What's that about?
Has CDL. Which all operates fine. I also assumed it never. Being an S. Odd what can be missed on a test drive.
Pleased with the little ladder and brush guards on the back.
Just had a good proper look underneath. Swapped the oil for Rotella 15w/40.
Have bought in coolant. Tyranny fluid. Tasks for the coming days.
So, drive shaft. Only one grease nipple on the front. So it needs swapping? Is it as easy as it looks? 4 bolts each end. It's telescopic. 30 mins? Or is it some kind of Trojan horse, looking friendly until it's off then, bam, didnt see that coming. Anyone got a link to the later best deal on one of those?
I see a few stats on AB, is there a particular one? Soft spring someone mentioned.
Swapped the air filter. The old one was not in a good shape. Looking forward to slightly better milage. And something once called the air box home!
Final thing. This black canister has a very loose feeling vacuum line. The one coming out of the right side. I'm going to replace the vac lines, but wondered what this unit was. Some kind of filter?
So, it has springs on the back. Never even checked. I assumed they all came with bags. Nothing mentioned ever about a swap. What's that about?
Has CDL. Which all operates fine. I also assumed it never. Being an S. Odd what can be missed on a test drive.
Pleased with the little ladder and brush guards on the back.
Just had a good proper look underneath. Swapped the oil for Rotella 15w/40.
Have bought in coolant. Tyranny fluid. Tasks for the coming days.
So, drive shaft. Only one grease nipple on the front. So it needs swapping? Is it as easy as it looks? 4 bolts each end. It's telescopic. 30 mins? Or is it some kind of Trojan horse, looking friendly until it's off then, bam, didnt see that coming. Anyone got a link to the later best deal on one of those?
I see a few stats on AB, is there a particular one? Soft spring someone mentioned.
Swapped the air filter. The old one was not in a good shape. Looking forward to slightly better milage. And something once called the air box home!
Final thing. This black canister has a very loose feeling vacuum line. The one coming out of the right side. I'm going to replace the vac lines, but wondered what this unit was. Some kind of filter?
#70
09-19-2014, 06:32 PM
Recovery Vehicle
Rovers North carries the grey genuine 180 thermostat. be sure to get the grey genuine 180 degree and not the motorad 180 degree.
http://www.roversnorth.com/ProductDe...e=0&eq=&key=it
As far as diveshafts, sounds like it still has the original in it and they can fly apart and knock a hole in the transmission due to being too close to the catalytic converter (bakes the grease out) and being none greaseable. So... the none servicable joints and the centering ball have never been serviced.
Yes it's an easy swap, just not an easy rebuild. There are alot of vendors that carry replacement upgraded shafts... best to get one with all greaseable 1310 series u-joints and greaseable centering ball and then grease the joints with every oil change and centering ball at least every other oil change. Jack one front wheel up and you can spin the wheel to spin the shaft to get to the grease fittings.
Buyer beware...Prices vary on driveshafts and you don't always get what you pay for.
This one is priced fairly and has the greaseable centering ball and all 1310 series greaseable u-joints... also the seller has 100% positive feedback and specializes in driveshafts.
1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 Land Rover Discovery 2 New Upgrade ft Driveshaft | eBay
Tom woods also makes a good one.
and with air filters, I wouldn't recommend a K&N air filter even though they make good products their air filters are reported to not play well with Land Rovers.
http://www.roversnorth.com/ProductDe...e=0&eq=&key=it
As far as diveshafts, sounds like it still has the original in it and they can fly apart and knock a hole in the transmission due to being too close to the catalytic converter (bakes the grease out) and being none greaseable. So... the none servicable joints and the centering ball have never been serviced.
Yes it's an easy swap, just not an easy rebuild. There are alot of vendors that carry replacement upgraded shafts... best to get one with all greaseable 1310 series u-joints and greaseable centering ball and then grease the joints with every oil change and centering ball at least every other oil change. Jack one front wheel up and you can spin the wheel to spin the shaft to get to the grease fittings.
Buyer beware...Prices vary on driveshafts and you don't always get what you pay for.
This one is priced fairly and has the greaseable centering ball and all 1310 series greaseable u-joints... also the seller has 100% positive feedback and specializes in driveshafts.
1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 Land Rover Discovery 2 New Upgrade ft Driveshaft | eBay
Tom woods also makes a good one.
and with air filters, I wouldn't recommend a K&N air filter even though they make good products their air filters are reported to not play well with Land Rovers.
Last edited by RicketyTick; 09-20-2014 at 06:09 AM.