EDIT: I am an idiot. I had the hose backwards.

Finally replaced my water pump and started installing everything. Then I noticed this:


The MAF connecter is rubbing the hose. Is that normal? This is an oem hose and I've tried "adjusting it with no luck.

 

Based on the photo it does not look like you have the stock hose. You can look through the entire thread for lots of pictures of others trucks or do a google search on upper radiator hose for D2 for lots of pics. Here is just one: https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/landrov...6beddee6f0.jpg

 

rotate maf over? My connector is on the "outer" side on both discos and the RRC..

 

I edited my post. I'm an idiot. I had the hose backwards. @longtallsally must have rubbed off on me and now I install things backwards too.

 

Finished everything up today. More details in my build thread, but all seems to be good!! After bleeding it per Extinct's instructions, I took her for a drive. It was weird because I have a small hill I have to drive up to get out of my neighborhood and the temperature quickly went up to 206° so I immediately turned around. It kept climbing and hit 212° as I pulled into my driveway. I figured I must have screwed something up and was about to shut her down when the temps started dropping and eventually came down to 176°. I shrugged, put it in reverse, and went for a drive. (Ambient temp is about 72°) As I drove around the temps would get to about 186-188° and then immediately drop down to 176°. I putted around for about 5 miles, going up and down little hills and it kept doing that, never going above 188° even with stops at stop lights. The only thing I can figure is that the thermostat initially stuck closed and then finally popped loose. Fwiw, I did not notice the fan clutch noise at all and I had the windows down.

I want to do a little trimming of the hoses to make it fit a wee bit better, but overall I am very happy.


Fwiw, I also installed the Hayden severe duty fan clutch, the Doorman fan, and a FlowKooler water pump.

 

Finally it's time to install this to my '04 4.6.

It's probably just me, but just to make sure after looking at the kit and some pictures and reading a few posts (will keep reading)...

Am I correct with this, that the new waterflow will be...
From waterpump to radiator bottom? I have the Gates 22073 hose for this.
From intake to radiator top, with the inline in this hose.

What about the expansion tank bottom hose, does it go the the heater core pipe on the passanger side of the engine pointing downwards?

Thanks!

EDIT:
Nevermind, I don't know what was going thru my head. It's the heat I suppose...
The plastic doohicky needs to stay in.

Everything plumbed now.

 

Great! Post up your location, before and after temps, and a pic of your ride!

 

As a post-mortem to my earlier post, after driving for a day, the coolant tank was down about 1/4". I topped it off and ever since my temps range between 179 and 183 with ambient temperatures in the low 70s. I find myself not even paying attention to the Ultraguage any more.

 

A small update, my original thermostat was cycling slow. So I popped in my spare.

Had a run-up to 100 Mile house in BC and back, 600 miles or so.

Temps averaged 177 to 194, depending on grade and speed, hit 201 on a 12% grade at 60 mph around 85 deg out for a couple of minutes

Except for an 8-mile 8.5 to 9% grade in 90F temp hit a whole 201F. Popped the heat on she dropped to 197 in a couple of minutes once the fan was fully engaged stayed at 196 - 198 and dropped back to 183 once I crested. Not unexpected that is a long climb brutal climb with lots of hard corners and 55mph average speed.

Drive home was largely flat and level early in the morning 117 to 181 for 3 hours, 181 to 194 the last hour.

 

Saw this today. This is always how it happens. People out on facebook will go on and on about how you don't need an inline and the factory 180 is just fine. Until the day the bypass valve does not close, then it overheats. Not to say it is not possible for an inline thermostat to fail, it is possible. However with the inline thermostat there is no bypass valve to fail so it has to be the thermostat element itself which fails, which is much rarer. If it does fail, you can remove the entire element in five minutes without losing more than a cup of coolant.