Oil change & car won't start
Drove car up on ramps. Did oil & filter change. Normal as usual. Ya know the ol drain old oil, remove filter, top up new filter, replace drain plug, fill up until dip stick says stop.
Turn car on to drive down ramps but car doesn't turn. Just hear a click. Test battery (less than 3 months old) = 12.54 volts. Look under seat and take out that yellow plug thing and test to make sure its seated properly. Still won't start.
Any advice is greatly appreciated!
Turn car on to drive down ramps but car doesn't turn. Just hear a click. Test battery (less than 3 months old) = 12.54 volts. Look under seat and take out that yellow plug thing and test to make sure its seated properly. Still won't start.
Any advice is greatly appreciated!
Nothing under the seat under will cause it not to start on a D2. Those yellow relays = for the power seats.
You need to make sure your alarm wasn’t triggered, roll window down, lock/unlock with all the doors/hood closed. Alarm light in the center of the gauge cluster should not be on solid. If you just get a click & the engine does not turn over = starter related.
You need to make sure your alarm wasn’t triggered, roll window down, lock/unlock with all the doors/hood closed. Alarm light in the center of the gauge cluster should not be on solid. If you just get a click & the engine does not turn over = starter related.
I called my neighbor over and he tried the ignition while I hit it with some ancient linesman pliers a few good times and nothing happened. Only a rubber mallet, do I need the hammer or should I just proceed to removing the starter motor.
I have the work manual and it looks like
made a good video walk through. It's only 18 steps in the manual...
I have the work manual and it looks like
Resting voltage and cranking amps aren't always a direct link. I have cars roll through my shop with good voltage and no guts to spin a starter.
Try and "jump" the car, if no difference, double check the connections at the starter with a meter, if that checks out(12v on the large cable going into the starter, and 12v on the solenoid wire when key is in crank position) then your starter is toast.
Try and "jump" the car, if no difference, double check the connections at the starter with a meter, if that checks out(12v on the large cable going into the starter, and 12v on the solenoid wire when key is in crank position) then your starter is toast.
Had a car connected and tried a jump start with the key in on position. Tried to start, hearing just a click. Got under while the cars were connected still and put an insulated screwdriver up there to them wires and saw sparks several times to no sound.
Confirmed diagnosis with mechanic and heading to a store to get a replacement starter and a low profile 10mm socket to get that damn bolt on the heat shield.
Confirmed diagnosis with mechanic and heading to a store to get a replacement starter and a low profile 10mm socket to get that damn bolt on the heat shield.
Make sure to get a brand new or use a very good 8MM 3/8 Socket/Allen to remove the 2 8mm Allen Head bolts holding the starter on. If you round out the Allen Bolt head a 5min job has now become a small nightmare due to the limited space.
I just did my starter last week as well, it was hanging up and not releasing well. I had to do it twice, as the brand new Eurospare starter was bad out of the box. solenoid would not activate, AND the bendix was not engaging. Pile of ****. Dropped my original off to the rebuilder and $100 and 4 hours later(2 starter replacements and rebuild time) its done.
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