Oil leaking
#1
#2
If you're going so far as to drop the pan you mind as well replace the timing chain and gears while you're there (and a front cam seal while the cover is off). Make sure you pressure wash out the pan when its off and get all the nasties that have been in there for years out and clean up the oil pickup screen.
#3
Not just the gasket - here are some pages from the shop manual, called the RAVE. Some bolts may be stubborn. Having the whole shop manual lets you read over a procedure and decide if your talents, time, and work space will cover it. You'll want ramps to lift up the front of the truck, or drive up on a sharp curb. No, don't use cinder blocks. They fail quickly and the vehicle will crush you.
Last edited by Savannah Buzz; 12-05-2012 at 08:17 PM.
#4
No need to mess with anything else if all you are doing is replacing the oil pan gasket.
Support the front of the truck with jack stands placed under the frame.
Allow the front axle to hang in the air all by itself.
Remove the 86,000 bolts holding the oil pan on, keep track of where each one goes as there on some that are longer than others.
Once all the bolts are out you may have to pry the oil pan off of the engine block.
The front cover and what nots has zero to do with the oil pan.
Support the front of the truck with jack stands placed under the frame.
Allow the front axle to hang in the air all by itself.
Remove the 86,000 bolts holding the oil pan on, keep track of where each one goes as there on some that are longer than others.
Once all the bolts are out you may have to pry the oil pan off of the engine block.
The front cover and what nots has zero to do with the oil pan.
#5
#6
#7
generic sealant is fine. some have even used the Permatex "Right Stuff" gasket maker and no new physical gasket. clean the oil pickup, replace the O-ring, and a dab of Loctite on the two bolts that hold it. Be aware that if the front crank seal is leaking, oil spray from it can come back on lots of places. Rovers like multiple oil leaks.
#8
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