Oil Pressure
M1 15W50 is almost twice as thick when hot as M1 10W30. If you are talking about another company's 10w30, I'd like to see those numbers.
And the M1 0W40 is the best oil Mobil makes, and can be found at Walmarts, AutoZone or Advance, and is without a doubt a better oil than Rotella.
And the M1 0W40 is the best oil Mobil makes, and can be found at Walmarts, AutoZone or Advance, and is without a doubt a better oil than Rotella.
And no, M1 0w-40 cannot be had anywhere, and no it is not a better oil than Rotella.
Rotella is a heavy duty motor oil designed for extended oil changes in severe duty service, it will out last M1 everytime.
And when I say "a waste of money" I mean it is overpriced for what you get.
Last edited by Spike555; Feb 11, 2012 at 03:53 PM.
Thread Starter
|
Mudding
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 216
Likes: 1
GARovee, I agree with you. I did actually ask for a specific pressure test when I brought it back to have them look at it again, but I think that they just pulled numbers out of their a$$. They told me that they did, in fact perform the test., and that the truck got the above mentioned numbers.
However, when I ran the oil pressure test, I got the following data:
Cold (sitting for 12 hours over night)
51 lbs at idle, and at 2000 RPM (this was sonsistant, as I verified by doing it three times)
Warmed up for 20 minutes. (remember, this is all at idle) I actually watched the pressure gauge for most of that, and it was fairly interesting in that it started fluctuating down in a range as the oil got warmer.
For a while (say 5 minutes), it was bouncing back and forth between 51 lbs and 35, then for the next five minutes, it was bouncing between 35 and 25, then for the next 5 minutes, it was between 18 lbs and 30 lbs, and then it stabilized at 26, then 24, and finally levelled out around 22 lbs at idle.
After it was warmed up, I ran it up to 2000 rpm, (which I did 3 times), I got 48-49 lbs on all three runs.
Conclusion: The dealership didn't test it, and the oil pump is running well.
However, when I ran the oil pressure test, I got the following data:
Cold (sitting for 12 hours over night)
51 lbs at idle, and at 2000 RPM (this was sonsistant, as I verified by doing it three times)
Warmed up for 20 minutes. (remember, this is all at idle) I actually watched the pressure gauge for most of that, and it was fairly interesting in that it started fluctuating down in a range as the oil got warmer.
For a while (say 5 minutes), it was bouncing back and forth between 51 lbs and 35, then for the next five minutes, it was bouncing between 35 and 25, then for the next 5 minutes, it was between 18 lbs and 30 lbs, and then it stabilized at 26, then 24, and finally levelled out around 22 lbs at idle.
After it was warmed up, I ran it up to 2000 rpm, (which I did 3 times), I got 48-49 lbs on all three runs.
Conclusion: The dealership didn't test it, and the oil pump is running well.
Last edited by 04BluDisco; Feb 11, 2012 at 03:32 PM.
I'd double check the facts on that. 15W-50 is thicker at temp than 10W-30.
As far as additive packages, the Rotella and 15W-50 Mo1 have the same zinc and phosphorous levels. Maybe Rotella is cheaper and more readily available but I wouldn't emphatically say better or that Mo1 is a waste of money.
Tear down a Rover V8 that has had Mo1 from day one, vs one that has had Dino oil and other "synthetics." Then look at the overall condition of the motor, bearings etc and tell me Mo1 is a waste of money. I'm not saying it's the best or only oil to use, in fact I think Motul makes a far better oil for the RV8 but Mo1 15-50 is a great oil, readily available and doesn't cost a fortune. Oil's a personal thing, we all know that, use what you want but there are many oils that are a good candidate for the application. I don't know that it's even possible to fully comprehend if you don't tear these things down all day long but Mo1 is a very good product.
As far as additive packages, the Rotella and 15W-50 Mo1 have the same zinc and phosphorous levels. Maybe Rotella is cheaper and more readily available but I wouldn't emphatically say better or that Mo1 is a waste of money.
Tear down a Rover V8 that has had Mo1 from day one, vs one that has had Dino oil and other "synthetics." Then look at the overall condition of the motor, bearings etc and tell me Mo1 is a waste of money. I'm not saying it's the best or only oil to use, in fact I think Motul makes a far better oil for the RV8 but Mo1 15-50 is a great oil, readily available and doesn't cost a fortune. Oil's a personal thing, we all know that, use what you want but there are many oils that are a good candidate for the application. I don't know that it's even possible to fully comprehend if you don't tear these things down all day long but Mo1 is a very good product.
And one quick question, if Mobil 1 is so good why do you have to tear down a engine that has used it?
Are you doing other work and then looking inside while doing the other work?
Or replacing bearings, cams etc?
Rock Crawling
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 280
Likes: 0
From: Canton, MI
Advertising is very poweful, up until recently I didn't even know about rotella. They are on the lowest shelf in walmart, Mobil1 is every where in your face. I don't think that oil made for similar applications from well known companies, have any sig differences in performance, that said rotella is probably a good choice for our engines.
Rock Crawling
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 354
Likes: 0
From: Charleston, SC
Yes, doing other work. I don't have a horse in this race, I've switched to Motul since it became questionable as to whether Mo1 switched the 15-50 from a group IV to group III base (like Rotella) and Mobil refused to clarify. Allegedly the 15-50 is still a IV but I don't trust "allegedly" and wasn't going to pay to have it tested. Still a quality oil regardless and the additive package is nearly identical to the T6. The most "visible" difference is in cam wear. I've seen cams that should have been replaced at 40K due to the 7500 interval and deal of the day oil the dealer was using. I've also seen cams with 150K on them that have always had Mo1 and look amazing. I've also seen everything in-between. Again, not that Mo1 is the only way to go but you could not pay me to use a dino oil. period. ever. Truly unbelievable the difference unless you see it every day.
I know Mo1 changed their additive package and had to go from the 15k service life down to the "normal" full syn service life.
I used Mo1 EP in the wifes Volvo for its first oil change by me, the zinc and phosphorus clogged the PCV system and cost me $300 and 8 hours in parts and time (its a turbo and has a VERY complicated PCV system)
Their EP oils have also ruined catalytic converters, all of that zinc goes down stream and clogs them.
When I used to use Mo1 15w-50EP in my Rover every gasket and seal and vacuum hose on the engine had a funky grayish color on them where they mated with the engine, my PCV hose was this color on both ends, valve cover and intake.
Mo1 used to be a great oil, but it is overpriced, you are paying for the name and if you are not going 15k on a single oil change you are wasting your money, same thing with the Mo1 oil filters, 15k service life, any less and you are throwing money away.
A 7qt T6 oil change, with filter, costs me $45 with tax and I change it every 5,000 miles.
211k miles, leaks about 1 qt every 1,000 miles, runs smooth, looks clean inside the oil filler hole thingy thing and I'm not switching to anything else, I use Rotella in everything including my lawnmower.
Each to their own, I must have Heinz ketchup, you may prefer Hunts, whatever floats your boat man.
If you really want to get crazy on oil and filter's go to BITOG and start reading.
I used Mo1 EP in the wifes Volvo for its first oil change by me, the zinc and phosphorus clogged the PCV system and cost me $300 and 8 hours in parts and time (its a turbo and has a VERY complicated PCV system)
Their EP oils have also ruined catalytic converters, all of that zinc goes down stream and clogs them.
When I used to use Mo1 15w-50EP in my Rover every gasket and seal and vacuum hose on the engine had a funky grayish color on them where they mated with the engine, my PCV hose was this color on both ends, valve cover and intake.
Mo1 used to be a great oil, but it is overpriced, you are paying for the name and if you are not going 15k on a single oil change you are wasting your money, same thing with the Mo1 oil filters, 15k service life, any less and you are throwing money away.
A 7qt T6 oil change, with filter, costs me $45 with tax and I change it every 5,000 miles.
211k miles, leaks about 1 qt every 1,000 miles, runs smooth, looks clean inside the oil filler hole thingy thing and I'm not switching to anything else, I use Rotella in everything including my lawnmower.
Each to their own, I must have Heinz ketchup, you may prefer Hunts, whatever floats your boat man.
If you really want to get crazy on oil and filter's go to BITOG and start reading.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
