Hello Everyone,

It's been awhile since I last posted and to make along story short, my last post was pertaining to my brand new cats and o2 sensors that keep throwing codes for Bad
cats. And in a nut shell....... it's because of my leaking head gasket.

Sooo....I'll be replacing the HG (w/Atlantic-B. Kit) next weekend and while i'm at it, I'm going to flushing the Anti-freeze and swap out all three Oil Cooling pipes (starting to fail). My question is....

1. Should I complete an oil flush before I do the teardown, so I can break all the gunk out of the engine and Change the hoses while I've got everything apart?

or

2. Should I wait until I'm done, run the engine & check for leaks with the existing oil, then flush and change the oil and filters?


Take note: She runs smooth as glass. I use sea-foam once a month in the tank and flush every third oil change. I'm expecting a pretty clean engine

98 Disco1 w/127K

 

You have to drain the antifreeze to change the head gaskets and change your oil and filter after so don't do either before you do the head gaskets.

 

thanks lipadj46,

My other questions would pertain to the Tappets.

Is there anything needed for renewing theses, other than pulling them out and putting the new in?

What justifies a bad or worn Tappet?

Do I need to set the tappet heights or reset the rocker heights if I do this?

I have the Rave CD and It directs you the the "V8I Overhaul Manual" for re installing. When you look for the sub section, there isn't anything listed.

Any help would be great. thanks

 

I did not do any of the rebuild steps, you should not have to if everything looks good and you don't have any other issues besides bad gaskets or a warped cylinder head. The only thing I did was scrub the inside of rocker covers, cleaned the inside and outside of the manifolds, cleaned and lubed the push rods and the rocker shaft assembly. I also had my cylinder heads planed.

 

My version of this is do the flush first so you have partially removed a big % of that old build up, don't drain the system till you are done cause you may be washing addition crap down into the pan while work on it.
When done, then drain it again, consider using some cheap oil and filter and flushing it again it you find there is still alot of build up. Do a 6 quart ATF flush the first time and if a second is required, do it a week or two later and run a 1 quart bottle of any of the popular engine flushs, like Gunk, then you are set.
As for the lifters, if you have any questions about their condition, pull, one at a time, and look at the hardened surface of the face, if smooth, with no groves or hardened surface warn away, you are fine.

 

Thanks Gentleman,
I'll keep you posted after I'm done. I did find a nice diagram in the Haynes book for what worn lifters/wear patterns look like.

 

It all goes back together faster than it comes apart that's for sure. I tell you what though it does feel good when everything is back together and if fires up on the second crank. My truck's engine is running like a champ now. Let us know how it all turns out.

 

Well I'm back up and running as of yesterday afternoon. And boy did it feel great to have her start up on the third crank. I guess you Beat me by one Crank... lipadj46.
The real concern was durning the removal of the Phentum chamber for the valley gasket. the 12 bolts were lose, like no resistance to remove. I'm sure this is where the problem was, and not soo much with the head gasket.

I did have one bolt on each Manifold (down side to cat's) break off. I had a local shop take them out/retap in exchange for a 6pack.

Anywho, thanks for the info. and the lifters were in great shape. A Perfect, lightly worn circle could be seen in the right light. I completed the Flush's as indicated and cleaned/Lubed EVERYTHING before reassembly. Also changed the diff oil to Lucas heavy w. gear oil 95-140 and lubed the shafts/u joints..

No more white smoke from the back end.

 

Congrats, feels good don't it?