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@pheel You need to a complete flush before, do a couple it needs to be water only in the system. But it is a last resort if all else fails,it can by you a little time. People have had long term sucess with block seal but it is completely dependent on the nature of a failure you cannot see.
Hmmmmm, kinda doubt block seal is going to slow it down much.
Sounds exactly to my experience.
Bought mine with the same symptom. The thermostat had been butchered inside with a knife destroying its guts in some frustration revenge from seller.
Had one blown head gasket and clogged radiator. After replacing the gasket and replacing radiator, condemning the bypass coolant path and tossing the thermostat to the garbage can, been running daily for 12 years now.
2 is a bit concerning right? Most likely a problem for another day but 6 wasn't really low. And does that also mean something that 6 and 5 are close to each other even they are low?
Then while it was still warm I did a coolant pressure test and took a look in 6 with the USB camera. Coolant pressure test still slowly going down in pressure from 18. Was down to 16 after a few minutes. Tried to capture some of the images from the USB camera.
These are all from 6. Definitely was way cleaner and had coolant compared to 2/4/8. Forgot to capture image from 2/4/8 but they were all dry and just a little build up since I had cleaned them off when doing the gaskets. I had to put all the plugs back in so I could move it. May try the block seal stuff but this is a pretty sure sign that I have a crack in the block right?
@pheel well that sucks, beyond the block crack you have an issue on number two I am not sure there is much you can do. Given you the crack is big enough to show up cold I doubt block seal will work. As the block is shot you could try it - nothing to lose but time and some AF. But you are looking at an engine replacement
Check out the facebook groups for sales of engines or whole trucks for donor engines:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/1891726104445172 https://www.facebook.com/share/16smHc2HRN/https://www.facebook.com/share/p/1ZwUs8JLhM/
Yep, going to be looking for a used engine. Thanks to all for helping me diagnose the issue.
I tried some K&W fiberlock just to see and maybe buy some time. I blocked of heater core, and then followed instructions and let it idle for 20 min. Went to drive for 10 min and started to get hot, I think it got up to about 230 but then came back down on it's own and I was able to get to 10 min of driving. After it cools will make sure it doesn't have air and test drive again but hopes are not too high, lol.
Something I have been trying to figure out is why after doing the head gasket job am I getting the misfire code on 6 when I wasn't before. Wondering if I messed something else up.
I tried swapping sparkplugs and issue stayed with 6.
They are new Bosch double platinum recommended from autozone.
I guess it makes sense to get a misfire with cracked block and coolant in there right?
I can try swapping the wires.
The number 6 misfire is most likely related to the coolant, in the cylinder it changes the air/fuel mixture.
Thumbs up for giving the fiber lock a go, we don't get much real world feedback on these products, my experience is all old and with iron block v8's and added research. The rise in temp would be expected once you start driving and the internal temps rise, the product has to hit the crack. When the temp dropped what did it drop to?
So after I had done that initial drive with the fiberlock, I drove it 3 or 4 more times and it kept getting hot up to about 230 and I would park it. Seems like the problem is just getting worse. The bottle said if the issue persists, you can add more after 5 days. So I went ahead and added the rest of the bottle. Not much change after that so I let it sit. Today I was messing with it, and it's getting hot quicker, don't even have to drive it. Was checking the lower radiator hose and it never gets hot.
Was thinking maybe the fiberlock messed up the thermostat so I changed that and put the old one back in from when this all started. Same thing, it gets to operating temp and keeps going up. Lower radiator hose is not hot. Now wondering if the radiator could be clogged from the fiberlock?
