Sounds like the fiber lock plugged the radiator.

 

Wanted to follow up and post an update. Fiberlock did not plug the crack, which was ok cause I figured it was just a "worth a shot" thing. I got a used engine from a junkyard, stripped it all the way down, cleaned stuff manually and put it back following the rave manual. Replaced seals but didn't replace any bearings or anything. Junkyard engine was pretty rusty from sitting for a year. Everything from the camshaft up I used parts from my existing engine. So far so good, It only has water for coolant at this point but no overheating! It sounds good and no codes. I am a bit shocked having never done this before. Things I learned and not sure about...

-I re-used the connecting rod bearing cap bolts. Read a bunch of stuff how they are TTY bolts and they should be replaced, but new were expensive so took a chance. This is a project vehicle for me and hopefully this will not come back to get me.

-I was a little nervous about putting the camshaft from one engine in another block. No idea how bad of an idea that is.

-Now that there isn't a leak in the block, bleeding the cooling system seems to be very easy. As someone who has not done this before, with the leak, I kept thinking I was not bleeding properly. I basically just put the reservoir bottle up on a couple blocks of wood to raise it, open the bleeder screw and fill. Turn heater on and repeat later. Going to bleed again when I mix some coolant in, but hoping this helps others. I spent hours looking for other leaks and thinking I wasn't doing the bleed process correctly.

-In my original post I think I had the cylinder numbers wrong. Everything I've read after says passenger side is 1, 3, 5, 7. If that is the case I had the leak in 5 not 6. My spark plug wires came labelled as driver side 1,3,5,7. From following the Rave instructions for how pistons are supposed to be pointed, it seemed to be passenger is 1,3, 5, 7.

Hope this info helps someone else. I know I have gained a lot of knowledge from this forum.

 

in the U.S. and a LHD drive Discovery, the odd number cylinders are on the driver's side.

here's a video from AB showing the cylinders.

 

Ah, thank you. The image in the video makes it clear. This is what I thought it was originally and then must have found another post talking about RHD. It said starting from the front of the engine, odd was on the left. But I don't think it said if it was LHD or RHD.

 

One detail about cylinder numbering is #1 is closest to the front (1 is ahead of 2 by the thickness of the connecting rod). The cylinder numbering is the same for RHD or LHD, remember the Rover V-8 is a BOP engine from the 60's (Buick, Oldsmobile, Pontiac). Keep calm and Rover On!

 

Cam will likely be fine, did you use the lifters that came with that cam on the exact same lobes? Rod bolts should be fine. I measured stretch, did the engineering calc, the 2nd install still leaves some stress. I can go in to the details if folks are interested but don't want to bore anyone.

 

The lifters and push rods are in order but some of the lifters had to be persuaded a bit into the lobes. That was concerning too. That's good to hear about the Rod bolts and hopefully will be fine for a while.