overheating DII
after i replaced the cap on friday night after work,i drove it around and it never overheated,drove it to work and back home on saturday, same on sunday, no problems.i check the coolant and oil everyday,coolant res. is full everyday.today
on my way to work i notice the temp gauge rising sitting in traffic,i immediatley get out of traffic and shut it off..... Im gunna break down everything i have done to you guys so you have a better understanding of whats going on...
ive been having this problem for about two months,when it first started happening i replaced the t-stat and well as the a-c pump because it was
squealing.i didnt have any problems for like a week then it overheated,it seemed like it was a leak coming out of the block connecting to the T on top as you could see on the very first post on this thread.i took it out and cleaned it well with a wire brush and used black silicone to reseal it.also trying to bleed it the bleed screw broke on me so i ordered another and fixed it.about 2 weeks later it overheats and i notice the electric fan is not coming on.so i replace it with an aftermarket hayden fan that is wired to come on when the vehicle turns on and is always on when driving.when i first started this thread it was about a week and a half later.since then ive tried to rent a pump that would allow me to pump up the system to try and find a leak but nobody in tulsa seems to have one that will fit.since then ive done a radiator flush and i replaced the cap.I have checked the oil on many occasions and it doesnt seem milky and the only time i see white smoke out the exhaust is when its cold. here in oklahoma spring will be 78 in the day and 35 at night.o also replaced the 2 idler pullys and the tensioner pully ,thought maybe i did the belt wrong but ive checked it and it seems right..... having problems guys.having problems. i really appreciate all you guys help.
on my way to work i notice the temp gauge rising sitting in traffic,i immediatley get out of traffic and shut it off..... Im gunna break down everything i have done to you guys so you have a better understanding of whats going on...
ive been having this problem for about two months,when it first started happening i replaced the t-stat and well as the a-c pump because it was
squealing.i didnt have any problems for like a week then it overheated,it seemed like it was a leak coming out of the block connecting to the T on top as you could see on the very first post on this thread.i took it out and cleaned it well with a wire brush and used black silicone to reseal it.also trying to bleed it the bleed screw broke on me so i ordered another and fixed it.about 2 weeks later it overheats and i notice the electric fan is not coming on.so i replace it with an aftermarket hayden fan that is wired to come on when the vehicle turns on and is always on when driving.when i first started this thread it was about a week and a half later.since then ive tried to rent a pump that would allow me to pump up the system to try and find a leak but nobody in tulsa seems to have one that will fit.since then ive done a radiator flush and i replaced the cap.I have checked the oil on many occasions and it doesnt seem milky and the only time i see white smoke out the exhaust is when its cold. here in oklahoma spring will be 78 in the day and 35 at night.o also replaced the 2 idler pullys and the tensioner pully ,thought maybe i did the belt wrong but ive checked it and it seems right..... having problems guys.having problems. i really appreciate all you guys help.
When electric fan runs at key position 2, does a paper towel suck against grille instead of being blown away? A reverse wired fan would cause low air flow when driving at certain speeds. Some one just pposted about making their own test cap from an old one and a tire valve.
When electric fan runs at key position 2, does a paper towel suck against grille instead of being blown away? A reverse wired fan would cause low air flow when driving at certain speeds. Some one just pposted about making their own test cap from an old one and a tire valve.
Finally got a day off to work on the d2,the temps go like this
Top driver side 128
Bottom driver side 139
Top passenger side 93
Bottom passenger side 130
Top center or coil 125
Bottom center or coil 114
I also am posting some pics that look like coolant leaking from the water pump but I'm not for certain
Top driver side 128
Bottom driver side 139
Top passenger side 93
Bottom passenger side 130
Top center or coil 125
Bottom center or coil 114
I also am posting some pics that look like coolant leaking from the water pump but I'm not for certain
A spread of more than 10F top/bottom in a vertical line indicates sludge in lower rows. No fix. Replace only.
As for water pump leak - no point changing the $3 gasket without the pump. A second gasket is the front cover gasket, if you have to go in there the $110 kit will include gaskets and replacement oil pump gears. Might consider timing chain also.
As for water pump leak - no point changing the $3 gasket without the pump. A second gasket is the front cover gasket, if you have to go in there the $110 kit will include gaskets and replacement oil pump gears. Might consider timing chain also.
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twistid1
Discovery II
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Nov 19, 2012 07:00 AM




