Typical hardcore "forum fighter". Says a one liner "Time to let this go bro", then spends a paragraph continuing to goad others. Your just a typical forum turd, Someone has a question, and you jump in with 50 answers, one of them has to be correct right? Seriously, you have 1.2 posts per day, time to get a new hobby dude.

"Have you checked your radius arm bushings yet? They would have to be pretty worn to get the sounds you are talking about, but they do wear out. Also, a badly out of balance wheel, bad wheel bearing, worn shock, or a bent rim can make for some nasty vibrations. You might want to jack the front wheels off the ground one at a time and check for any play." Genius. Pure genius. The guy has a vibration on his car, So you name the one part that is the least likely to cause a vibration, and then every part on his car that could vibrate.

Here's another gem from you.

OP: I am having a brake vacuum problem, I think. The basic symptoms are no brake assist at startup, slow recovery after heavy breaking (hit brakes, hit brakes again and almost no assist), and slow to build vacuum (I have about a 100 foot driveway and by the time I get to the bottom there is no assist. When I drive about another 100 feet to the stop sign, there is still no assist. Another block or so and I have assist), and a very long throw with resistance before brakes engage if on a panic basis. Brakes have been bled multiple times in the prescribed manner and I am pretty sure there is no air in the lines."

YOU: "When was the last time you did a good bleeding on the brakes and replaced pads? If you have a computer to bleed the brakes it will be much faster. If not then get a helper and set aside an hour to do a good flush the old fashioned way. My wife and I opened and closed the bleeder about 20 times on each wheel, stopping every 10 times to top up the reservoir.
I've been told that the only true way to properly bleed the brakes on a D2 is with a computer so I might try that some day to see if it really does make a big difference."

Hahaha. Guy has a problem with vacuum assist that he clearly lays out as a vacuum assist problem. Says he bled the brakes multiple times. You tell him to bleed the brakes. You tell him bleeding with a computer is much faster, Have you ever bled a disco with a computer? How do you know its faster/more effective? You have been told "the only true way to properly bleed the brakes on a D2 is with a computer so I might try that some day to see if it really does make a big difference." BUT WAIT, you just said its faster and more effective to bleed with a computer, BUT YOU NEVER BLED YOUR BRAKES WITH A COMPUTER. OK bro, who told you the only true way to bleed brakes was with a computer? Cite your source?... Never mind, this is a joke, Its obvious you're just another fearsome forum fighter chock full of bravado with little to no knowledge. If anyone wants to kill some time with a laugh, go through his 1100 or so posts.

 

The only point I was trying to make is that the heater core is above plane with the rest of the system. Thus creating a place for air to get trapped in the system. Land Rover are not the first to do this. As far as not reading certified reference material to be better informed and to say you know better than the people who desinged the system and fully understand everything they did and what to expect when serviceing then you sir are not helping anyone. I'm a firm believer in finding a more efficient way to do things but ignoring simple physics just is not the way to go about it.

So my point is. By design these systems are prone to an air bubble that typically resides in the top of the heater core causing that waterfall sound so many people talk about. This air can migrate though the system causing all kinds of intermittent and some times cronic problems. Does this not make sense?

anyway you need to get that out and the most logical way to do this is by raising the overflow and having a bleed orifice above plane with the rest of the system. Why do you think they tell you to unclip the hose from the cowl this gets the bleeder just high enough to do its job.

So without a manual you would not know that. Sure one can force the coolant through the system by running the engine while filling it but why would you do that? land rover has provided you with a simple efctive solution that work without wasting gas. Not to mention if there is another problem then you will just heat it up and remember the inside were you have low or no coolant things heat up extremely fast not to mention this is aluminium people its heating and cooling propertys are vastly diferent than iron.

I will say it again the very first thing you should do when tracking a cooling problem is 1 bleed the system. 2 check for leeks and not just fliud coming out. some leeks are vacume leeks letting air in as the system cools for instance around hose clamps (replace those factory ones). 3 check for mechanical failure radiator, fan, pump, thermostat, ETC. 4 use the correct coolant mixture 50/50 of whatever coolant floats your boat but I did the research here it is. FYI if you read about glycol solutions they need to be mixed with the right amount of water to perform in the range you want. more or less water will change how it performs dramaticaly.


Green: ethelene glycol. 50/50
Boiling piont. +225F
Freezing piont. -36f
BTU/heat transfer. 0.8
Viscosity. 0.7

Orange. Popylene Glycal. 50/50
Boiling Piont. +287f
Freezing Piont. -29
BTU/heat transfer. 0.9
Viscosity. 0.8

So there it is. not a huge amount of performance difference on paper. But from my experience in the automotive world even the slightest increase in performance can go a long way. Then you add in the fact that its less corosive on aliminium. I think I will go for the orange stuff but you can make the green stuff work fine just watch out when facing extreme conditions.

So for those being bullies on here **** Off!! no one needs your negative bull**** go read a book and boost your inflated egos with some real useful knowledge just because you learned how to work on you car from uncle Jed in the back yard does not make anyone gods gift to cars. Most of us are here to help each other.

To all the rest read!!!!! Stay informed, ask qeustions, find answers and make informed decisions. God bless knowledge and all the places it comes from. Be positive free thinkers people.

 

Well there you go again rovermaster tech. By the way who gave you the title master rover tech? You are wrong again 3/4 of a inch of the top of the heatercore is indeed above the the rest of the cooling system. Maybe the Next thing your going to tell me is the heater core isn't part of the cooling system.

Sure you can run the motor while bleeding the system but why would you? In no shop manual I have read and I have read a lot of them most note worthy are the ones I was researching when I worked RR'ing motors and transmisions for Ford at a dealership in Irondiquit New York for 5 years. Oh let me mention I was also a licensed building contractor for over 10 years and the number of automotive and other certifications I poses. Yet I dont't go around calling myself a master of anything.

I belong to these forums to trade info get help and help others Every car is the same in so many ways and yet so different.

Quit being such a D-bag and offer up something useful.

So the being said.

Cooling system diagnostics 101. (so rovermaster tech copy and post something useful)

1. Check your coolant level

2. Inspect your hoses, overflow, and, any other external components for cracks, leaks, and, wear. if anything looks funky attend to it. If all is good move on if repair problems

3. Flush the system.

4. fill the system and bleed it. Do it how ever you want but the rover way works best and its simple.

5. Optional pressure test(when the motor is cold) this will reveal any pin holes or bad clamps or seals. As I stated earlier all cooling sytems are prone to vacuum leaks when the system is cooling down.

6. now run the engine to operating temp.

7. Let it cool and add fluid if needed.

all that said if you are still overheating or looseing coolant with no visible sings of fluid on the ground you will definitly need to do a cold pressure test. just like a compression test and look for leak down in the guage. just remember land rover systems are designed for 15 psi operating range and will release pressure over that from the cap.

This test will show you if there is a internal problem and thats for another thread.

So if you are over heating after replacing all the components of the system chances are you have air in the system. For those who are frustrated like I was with this recurring problem its air migrating to the thermo housing and causing a pocket around the thermo thus letting it cool off enough to close back up. I am more than possitive about this I could see the air bubble in the housing and when I checked the temp with my laser thermometer the housing with the air pocket it read 160 to 70ish thus allowing the thermo to close. with the air out of the system the thermo housing read the same temp as the engine. This I know because I had my OBDII meter hooked and its not some cheap one and metered the full real time data set while the car was running. I guess I was wasting gas Oh wait that was the joke earlier and you didnt get it then iether.

Uless we are talking religion I'm gonna go with the science and say it does not lie. So before you go spitting back yard mechanic crap all over this forum do some research for your self and maybe apply some of that to your way of life or just leave us all alone.

I may not be a Rovermaster tech by self definition but I would like think 20 years of profesional experience in automotives and other related fields gives me leg to stand on.

To all fallowing this I hope that within the body of these post's you will find something that helps. I will no longer get into debates with Rovermaster tech. In the future I will post only the science and if I can help I will. As for this forum I have found it to be very helpful and some pretty cool discusions that have steered me in the right derection be new the the rover world but not stranger to the wrench

good day to all.

 

You've been here how long, colson?

 

Does Colson think RMT is giving him ****??? I think it's just an argument between Jered and RMT. Or maybe Im confused?? I would like to read another scientific explanation on how to bleed air out of my heater core again though....I cant get enough of that.

 

I appreciate the all inclusive approach.
This same debate is being simulcast on like 6 threads.
Goodness

 

Thats what it is!!!!! Thanks Dusty

 

after, bleeding and checking the system (rechecked the thermostat, working properly). I noticed that only one corner of the rad was warm rest stone cold. (after achieving proper operating temp) Took the rad off to a rad shop and its plugged. there going to tear it down monday and see if they can repair it, if not new rad. I'll post the Plugged % as soon as i here from them. thanks for all the input.
PS. also thanks to whoever posted the RAD removal procedure without taking the grill and fans out. once the bat box and air cleaner box was out gave me full access to everything. rad came right out without disturbing the cooler. good procedure!

 

I had a hot tick which I believe to be a lifter based on the frequency and what looked like coolant blowing out of the overflow. Temps were reaching 221 with the stock thermostat. I was getting ready to do some off road and was worried about the temps so got a OEM 180 thermostat. When I went to change it I used a vacuum to refill the system and could not pull 20 INMG only about 7. It was the first time I had used the vacuum system and I thought it was a problem with the unit. I tried to fill the system manually and noticed coolant dripping out of the overflow. Turns out that the throttle body heater hose had a crack in it that dripped down to the overflow hose and then appeared to be coming out of the overflow. Once that was repaired it pulled the required vacuum and the system refilled properly. Took it out to the local 4 wheel drive park and it hit 201 as a max on the UltraGauge. Driving around town 186-188 in free air and 194 at the bank drive through and in traffic. A Camaro nailed a traffic post and caused quite a tie up. Ambient temp 85. The tick is gone.