Take off the running boards!

If you load it down really heavy, what does the truck drive like? Does it REALLY bounce up and down after hitting a good dip in the road at 40? If so you might need new shocks and springs. Strange that a 2004 would need new shocks and springs though.

If you do need a new suspension, and you want to offroad the truck, go ahead and get the 2" OME lift. You can drive those tires with the lift till they go bad, then get new ones. It'll hit your wallet about the same as new springs and shocks, but it'll hit your gas mileage harder when you put bigger tires on it.

 

Thanks Robmcin


So Spike wasn't kidding.


No! I love them on

Well its more like a swaying feeling. Just a normal unleveling on the road causes a sway side/side and for a more rougher bump it wobbles up/down.

I probably narrowed it down to some type of bushings since my other car had the same feeling and one year ago, the dealer said the bushings needs to be changed. Does anyone know the potential replacement costs?

------------------


Anyways, does anyone here recommends me to drive in Hi/Lock for a week and a half until my Tommy woods come in? If so should I not drive in the highway in highway speeds?

Thank you for everyone's time.

 

www.atlanticbritish.com has anything and everything you could ever want for your truck, if they dont list it call them and they will tell you if they can get it or not.
www.roverlandparts.com has all the used stuff you will need.
www.autosportsunlimited.com also sells used stuff.
Bookmark these sites.
Go to AtlanticBritish and READ THE TECH TIPS!!

 

I was under the truck today trying to remove the shaft and notice the screw on the back is at the upmost corner and was impossible to get to.

Any tips?

I got a quote for $195 to rebuild the shaft. My local auto store carries the Precision u joints and ball kit. The u joints are 22.99 and the ball is 39.99. So thats about $100 for parts. Kinda pricey but I cannot wait another week for online shipment.

Also I have many confirmation from Advanced Auto and Auto Zone that the Neapco parts are made in China. That steered me away from it. I'm just not sure how I can drive about 40 miles on the highway just with my rear shaft--and all the weight on the rotoflex to the driveline shop. Its very difficult to get the shaft out. Dangit!

 

First and foremost, let me congratulate you on your find and subsequent purchase! Nice looking truck, I like that graphite color too, I almost bought my IS 300 in graphite back in '03! You'll LOVE the black interior, I almost bought a black Disco but it had the tan interior and I knew I'd regret having that light carpet...

Now, onto the next-most-important thing- that's way too much money on the drive shaft rebuild. Hell, for that kind of money you can buy a whole new shaft that's already been rebuilt! Will Tillery (roverguy.com, I think) had one he was selling for $230, shipped. He was also selling Tom Wood's drive shafts for $345 shipped, that's what I did so now I've got my stock drive shaft w/ 56k on it in the garage as an extra.

Don't delay on the shaft though, get something done with it right away. It's upwards of 70k that it starts to become a real liability.

 

Thank you. I love your Silver Disco. Silver fits perfectly for the Disco.

Yes indeed!

I knew it was kind of pricey, I mean even for the parts alone was overboard. I am ordering the Tom Woods today but I have never heard of Will Tillery. I will check in with him if its the same Gold Seal used by TW.

Sounds good, thanks for the info Disco_Fever

 

I must be a dealer then !!!

 

You can lock your CDL into 4 hi and drive with no problems without the front drive shaft. I did so with mine back and forth to a driveline shop. The rotoflex is actually quite stout. You will have a few lights on the dash indicating the CDL is on, but again, no problems driving. Don't hot rod it, but normal driving is no problem. I also have those holes under my passenger side footwell, so I suppose it's normal.
Congrats~!

 

GREAT NEWS!

Tom Woods front drive shaft is in! I need to publicly give full credit and my thanks to Thom from the Chicago Land Rover Forum for doing such a great job. His knowledge and experience in Land Rover is unmatched.

Now I have a peace-of-mind that the bomb has been diffused. Now, off to some 60k service work.

So, for the the Rave CD do I actually have to extract it into a CD? It seems not to open.

And once again, thanks everyone on the board for your experienced input.

 

No need to extract here, just click on the link for the final edition of RAVE (Land Rover Service Manual) for LRNA. This version includes the following Land Rovers up to model year 2004:

http://landroverresource.com/