PAS high pressure hose replacement
The high pressure hose of my Disco II Td5 (LHD) is completly rusted, and I'm affraid that it will leak or broke. I want to replace it, but the Rave doesn't have a topic of the hose replacemnet procedure. Is it possible to replace it without moving out the radiator? Is there anybody, who do it DIY and can tell me some skills about it? Thanks in advance
You can take the power steering pump off pretty easily.
I would remove the fan
Then the belt.
Take the bolts out holding on the PS pump.
There is a long shaft - you need to work the pump off of that shaft.
If you are going to replace the PS hose anyway - then hack saw it off.
hack saw the hose on the power steering pump so that you can get a deep well socket over the rusted hose nut. That will get it off.
So, you cut the rubber with a hack saw as close to the part where the wrench goes on. Then you get a long socket - a deep well and slip it on there and that will get the hose fitting loose for you.
I would remove the fan
Then the belt.
Take the bolts out holding on the PS pump.
There is a long shaft - you need to work the pump off of that shaft.
If you are going to replace the PS hose anyway - then hack saw it off.
hack saw the hose on the power steering pump so that you can get a deep well socket over the rusted hose nut. That will get it off.
So, you cut the rubber with a hack saw as close to the part where the wrench goes on. Then you get a long socket - a deep well and slip it on there and that will get the hose fitting loose for you.
Since you mention the radiator, can I assume you mean the long steel line that runs above the crossmember and below the radiator? If so, yes you can get it out and place the new one in without removing the radiator. I just replaced mine.
What worked for me [note that the plastic cover below the engine bay has long been removed from my '03 D2, and I have the ARB front bumper, so this was simplified for me.]
1. remove plastic cover in front of the pipe that is bolted to the crossmember.
2. remove access panel inside driver's side inner fender
3. remove line connections from PAS pump and steering box
4. cut steel line [or in my case it crumbed to a pair of pliers] off just before the first support bracket that holds it to the cross member. a slim sawzall or hand-held hacksaw blade will do. then let system drain out of the cut line.
5. remove through the inner fender well, where you removed the cover.
6. insert the new pipe through the hole and connect to the pump and steering box.
7. this is the funky part. the original brackets will be impossible to reapply as designed [you'll see when you get it apart]. I slipped the rubber part around the pipes and instead of using the metal top half and bolt from the bracket, I used a piece of copper wire to create the loop and tightened it by twisting.
8. replace plastic covers as needed
9. fill system and bleed as required.
Sorry I do not have pictures.
I also removed my fluid reservoir and did the best I could to remove the rusty metal flakes that had accumulated against the filter screen inside. There were some good sized chunks in there.
If you meant the other Line that is called a High-Pressure line, then disregard this dissertation and carry on. Same goes if the TD5 differs from the 4.6 V8.
What worked for me [note that the plastic cover below the engine bay has long been removed from my '03 D2, and I have the ARB front bumper, so this was simplified for me.]
1. remove plastic cover in front of the pipe that is bolted to the crossmember.
2. remove access panel inside driver's side inner fender
3. remove line connections from PAS pump and steering box
4. cut steel line [or in my case it crumbed to a pair of pliers] off just before the first support bracket that holds it to the cross member. a slim sawzall or hand-held hacksaw blade will do. then let system drain out of the cut line.
5. remove through the inner fender well, where you removed the cover.
6. insert the new pipe through the hole and connect to the pump and steering box.
7. this is the funky part. the original brackets will be impossible to reapply as designed [you'll see when you get it apart]. I slipped the rubber part around the pipes and instead of using the metal top half and bolt from the bracket, I used a piece of copper wire to create the loop and tightened it by twisting.
8. replace plastic covers as needed
9. fill system and bleed as required.
Sorry I do not have pictures.
I also removed my fluid reservoir and did the best I could to remove the rusty metal flakes that had accumulated against the filter screen inside. There were some good sized chunks in there.
If you meant the other Line that is called a High-Pressure line, then disregard this dissertation and carry on. Same goes if the TD5 differs from the 4.6 V8.
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D2 2003
Discovery II
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Nov 7, 2017 07:41 AM




