Please Help....Beyond Confused.....
#1
Please Help....Beyond Confused.....
Hello Everyone! I Have a question I have a 2000 LR2, And I am having a Problem with it. My Truuck was working fine,and Everything until a Week ago it started overheating on My way home,As I Was driving it overheated and I saw the temperture go up,But then 10 sec later go back to normal.got home checked the water level it was normal, checked the oil it was normal. So Then yesterday it did it again I drive it it overheats the Temperture goes up then down. Iam beyond confused about this. im thinking maybe its my thermostat? Thanks!!!!
#2
do you have an ultra gauge? it sounds like your sending unit could be bad. the problem is overheating is such an important problem that you can't assume that. you need to figure out if it is getting hot or just saying it's getting hot. but you should stop driving it right now. it has truly overheated enough for the gauge to rise you may have already ruined your motor.
have your head gaskets been changed?
are you leaking or using any water?
how many miles?
has it ever had a new t stat?
is it an original water pump?
do you still have dexcool?
we need more info?
have your head gaskets been changed?
are you leaking or using any water?
how many miles?
has it ever had a new t stat?
is it an original water pump?
do you still have dexcool?
we need more info?
#3
The LR2 (Freelander) is normally found with a V6 engine, and has a thermostat assembly on top of the engine. The stat is set for higher temperature than the V8 models. The spec for the stat from the RAVE shop manual is:
When the coolant temperature reaches approximately 88 °C (190°F), the thermostat begins to open and is fully open at approximately 102°C (216°F).
When the coolant temperature reaches approximately 88 °C (190°F), the thermostat begins to open and is fully open at approximately 102°C (216°F).
This means that the engine is running hotter than most of us are used to in the first place. A D2 has a standard thermostat that starts to open at 180 and in fully open at 204. IMHO replacing the thermostat and flushing the cooling system of Dexcool would be a good first step. There don't seem to be very many alternative thermostats for the Freelander, and they are like $50 or more, depending on source. So you are stuck with the higher temp, which mandates a cooling system in top shape.
You may have air in the cooling system now, and the "steam pocket" allows the thermostat to make wild swings. Can sound like gurgles or water rushing under the dash. Be sure air is purged, might try that before repairs. The bleed point is # 2 in attached drawing. You will notice lots of clamps on hoses. Many places for a small leak. A coolant pressure test will reveal a leak, so it can be dealt with.
Don't drive out of the driveway until resolved. Engine is at high risk. DIY tests, pay for a "house call", or tow it to shop.
Don't drive out of the driveway until resolved. Engine is at high risk. DIY tests, pay for a "house call", or tow it to shop.
Last edited by Savannah Buzz; 10-18-2012 at 06:42 AM.
#4
Yes you are a bit confused. You may not have a 2000 lr2 people get this confused quite often so what is it that you really have? 2000 land rover discovery II (big difference) now slow it up a bit and give us more information as to any maintenance that has been performed and mileage on you truck and proper make and model .
You have to understand that usually in most circumstances this engine does not give second chances one redline is all it need to cause significant damage leading up to a head job. So you need to be very cautious about driving it as of now...... the idiot gauge on the dash (engine temp) does not usyally rise until damage is already being done. You should consider in investing in a scan gauge or a ultra gauge so that you can set warnings and monitor your temps more accurately.
From your description one or more of the following are taking place,
1, your t-stat is failing to open when it us supposed to.
2, water pump is failing. Less likely from your description of events.
3, radiator has deposits building up and decreasing you flow of coolant.
4, low on coolant.
5, air in cooling system however you did not mention a water fall or gushing noise.
6, you have a leak which would go back to being low on coolant.
You have to understand that usually in most circumstances this engine does not give second chances one redline is all it need to cause significant damage leading up to a head job. So you need to be very cautious about driving it as of now...... the idiot gauge on the dash (engine temp) does not usyally rise until damage is already being done. You should consider in investing in a scan gauge or a ultra gauge so that you can set warnings and monitor your temps more accurately.
From your description one or more of the following are taking place,
1, your t-stat is failing to open when it us supposed to.
2, water pump is failing. Less likely from your description of events.
3, radiator has deposits building up and decreasing you flow of coolant.
4, low on coolant.
5, air in cooling system however you did not mention a water fall or gushing noise.
6, you have a leak which would go back to being low on coolant.
#7
#8
#9
You may be low on coolant.
You may have air in your cooling system.
A Discovery II can have a "water fall" sound when the cooling system
has air in it.
The water fall sound will be heard when you rev the engine while in neutral.
Or when you take off from a stop light.
If you have the water fall sound, you may succeed by bleeding your cooling system.
Then you may have more stable temp readings.
The coolant system is critical on these vehicles to be working properly..
Once the coolant system is all figured out - then life is easy and the D2 will give you good service.
You may have air in your cooling system.
A Discovery II can have a "water fall" sound when the cooling system
has air in it.
The water fall sound will be heard when you rev the engine while in neutral.
Or when you take off from a stop light.
If you have the water fall sound, you may succeed by bleeding your cooling system.
Then you may have more stable temp readings.
The coolant system is critical on these vehicles to be working properly..
Once the coolant system is all figured out - then life is easy and the D2 will give you good service.
#10
And if Sonya2020 indeed has a D2 (sorry for my babbling about the LR2); here is the plumbing plan for it. And as correctly stated above, air in the system will make the coolant temp sensor have different readings. Of course, air does not transfer heat as well as liquid coolant, so when the steam bubbles are circulating inside the engine that area of the engine is subject to more over heating. Need to purge the air, check for leaks (the coolant had to go somewhere), and be vigilant. Above 50% on the gauge is trouble.
The bleed point is 11 in this drawing. You do it when cold, and un-hook #18 from the mounting and raise it as much as possible. Don't stop bleeding at the first bubble or two, there will be more.
The bleed point is 11 in this drawing. You do it when cold, and un-hook #18 from the mounting and raise it as much as possible. Don't stop bleeding at the first bubble or two, there will be more.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
CANAMDiscovery
Discovery II
12
12-19-2012 09:40 AM