If i was going across the country and i wanted to pull my d2 with my duramax, what pull bar weight would you guys think is appropriate. I'm looking at one rated at 5000 lbs.

 

Why not just get a trailer? It's safer for everyone. The D2 fits on a 16 foot double axle trailer with room to spare.
https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...43/#post877146

 

I prefer a trailer but i don't want to rent one for 2 weeks, and definitely don't want to buy one. SO now the obvious comment is out of the way, has anyone pulled one?

 

I've always been interested in flat towing mine someday, they make mounts for the disco with the stock front bumper, and if it were me, I'd buy the heavier tow bar setup, like the OX brand rated for 7k? or something... just to be safe. I've used the Stowmaster 5k tow bar for other lighter rigs, and honestly it would probably be fine for the rover.. If I remember right, it's about a thousand dollar job without putting brakes in. My 2 cents

 

thank you, i have a 2022 3500HD Silverado I'll be pulling it with. And honestly didn't think about adding a brake system to the lr. I know the truck can handle it but that might be asking much of an undersized pull system

 

Personally even if you aren't interested in owning a trailer long term, I'd buy a used trailer for the trip and then turn around and sell it at the end.

 

For what it's worth: The manual says you have to have the ignition key in position 2 for the entire length of the tow, otherwise a mileage error will occur that you will need a dealer (or, more likely nowadays, a nanocom) to correct. Mind you the vehicle is on, but not running, at position 2 so your battery will drain unless you rig up an electrical connector from your tow vehicle.

 

Every now and then threads come up on flat towing behind a Class A or the like. I never did it as I had the Jeep for that action, but honestly, for the effort and cost to get a flat tow setup for the tow bar, it seems to me it would be a wash to a 2 week trailer rental. Now if it’s something you’d want to do more than once, I can totally dig wanting the setup for the future, but with the cost of a good tow bar, what mounts and how to mount them to a D2, you are at the trailer rental cost. That is unless you are part of the exodus eaving the People’s Republik of Kalifornistan and trailer rentals cost as much as trailers themselves.

All that aside, if you are doing this as a one time deal, I’d just pull the drive shafts as it’s not a huge effort to do and will certainly avoid any wear and tear issues.

 

Thank you for the good info.
for what's its worth, my bumper on the lr already has the tow eyelets. I bought a second hand (used once) tow bar. Also i have a friend that pulled a jeep with a class A. He sold both but kept the brake activator that he's loaning me. So...$150 and a little machining on my lathe of a few bushings and I'm in business. I had planned on removing 1 drive shaft (front) and traveling with transfer case and transmission in N. Ignition on of course so steering stem is unlocked. Any other experienced advice or concerns are very appreciated.

 

Do not tow with the tranny in N, you'll torch it. You don't want the transmission spinning without the pump. Just the transfer case goes in N. Leave the automatic in Park.