I don't, but was actually planning on picking one up in the relatively near future as I plan on doing as much self-wrenching as possible. Assuming that's what I'm looking at, what rectifies the matter? Also, why would it go off when I was rolling at 20mph on a smooth highway?

Thanks!

 

Related, if this is triggering a road code, would a 3130 scan tool pick it up? I was thinking of ordering one today.

 

So it's been a few days since I cycled the lever through High, Neutral, Low a number of times and I haven't had a repeat warning tone. I suspect that the issue was indeed the CDL switch getting barely triggered. For now, I'll live with that and not play with CDL until I have time to (front drive shaft is the first project in the queue).

Btw, I did pick up a scan tool and ran it through the system. Only code I got was a P0327 (knock sensor), which very well could be due to the gas the previous owner was putting in (I get the sense that she didn't know the gas requirements on the truck.). I'm still on my first tank of 93 and will see if the codes stays cleared over the next few weeks.

 

You will find that some codes are immediate, and others may require two or four drive cycles to turn the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (check da motor) "MIL" back on. On my scanner it has a spot for MIL Status on/off.

 

I know it is a common thing on LR with CDL that if you don't use the CDL on a semi regular it tends to stick. It happened to my Dad's D90 back in the day and all he had to do is lube it up and it started working again.

 

Hey Savannah, I noticed in the RAVE manual that there are a number of ways to do a drive cycle? Do you have a preferred method? Also, do I clear the code first and then do the cycles? I cleared the code once already, but it came right back. I may just need to get a new sensor, but want to make sure I rule out the bad gas theory.

Of course, my complicating factor is that the inspection is up in February. Booooo.