ready to buy...should i?
interesting choices here, at least for my locale. a imported-from-middle-east 5 speed DII, a '91 RRC and the one i'm inquiring about...'99 Discovery II with auto, 131k miles, cloth interior, all functions working.
Here comes the monkey...the front driveshaft was just replaced (yeehaa), the head gaskets were replaced a year ago, but listen how...the receipt/work order shows that apparently it was driven to the point that the motor stopped...upon teardown it was found that the #2 piston was "busted" and "had a broke exhaust valve". to remedy, installed were a used piston and cylinder heads, gaskets, oil pan gaskets and all other associated gaskets, oh, and a used water pump(??). the total repair cost ~$2300 half parts/half labor.
now, the motor started easily, ran great with no obvious issues. it just weirds me a bit that they installed a single piston and used water pump? this was from a rover-only shop. the heads look like new, they must've cleaned/machined them, because they look like they belong on a tank. anyway, i'm about to make a offer, but thought I'd run this by the forum first.
oh, and what is the exposed brake rotor-looking thing that shows up in the photo i took from the front lower center of the vehicle which would be where the front crankshaft pulley would be located? it literally shows in the photo as the bottom portion of a worn brake rotor.
Thanks much!
Brian
Here comes the monkey...the front driveshaft was just replaced (yeehaa), the head gaskets were replaced a year ago, but listen how...the receipt/work order shows that apparently it was driven to the point that the motor stopped...upon teardown it was found that the #2 piston was "busted" and "had a broke exhaust valve". to remedy, installed were a used piston and cylinder heads, gaskets, oil pan gaskets and all other associated gaskets, oh, and a used water pump(??). the total repair cost ~$2300 half parts/half labor.
now, the motor started easily, ran great with no obvious issues. it just weirds me a bit that they installed a single piston and used water pump? this was from a rover-only shop. the heads look like new, they must've cleaned/machined them, because they look like they belong on a tank. anyway, i'm about to make a offer, but thought I'd run this by the forum first.
oh, and what is the exposed brake rotor-looking thing that shows up in the photo i took from the front lower center of the vehicle which would be where the front crankshaft pulley would be located? it literally shows in the photo as the bottom portion of a worn brake rotor.
Thanks much!
Brian
before you plunk down any cash go to NAPA and buy a Block tester its 50.00
You can quickly determine if there are hydrocarbons leaking into the coolant system,
Fill the tube with 1oz. of blue fluid then stick the tube into the coolant bottle, if it turns yellow then its leaking ( or green)
I have found more than a few that still are running that have leaks
You can quickly determine if there are hydrocarbons leaking into the coolant system,
Fill the tube with 1oz. of blue fluid then stick the tube into the coolant bottle, if it turns yellow then its leaking ( or green)
I have found more than a few that still are running that have leaks
forgot to mention one thing...which, may be a wheel bearing? sound starts up at some point and becomes a cacophony at 60-65mph then fades by 80mph? the tires are toyo open country with what appears to be fewer than 10k miles and running my hand over them all only produced a smooth feel to the tread pattern. they are a bit aged, though, as the current owner has only driven about 5k per year over the past 4.
i gave the typical side-to-side movement at speed to try to determine if noise altered, but it had no affect. ??
blower motor squeeky too
Brian
i gave the typical side-to-side movement at speed to try to determine if noise altered, but it had no affect. ??
blower motor squeeky too
Brian
get a block tester first.
the noise could also be the front drive shaft getting ready to depart the vehicle.
Coolant swishing around means there is air in the system,
either it leaked out or it leaked into the engine or it was never properly bled.
Block tester gives you starting point for the condition of the engine.
If tester indicates a possible engine problem, it would be wise to look for a truck that doesnt have this problem
the noise could also be the front drive shaft getting ready to depart the vehicle.
Coolant swishing around means there is air in the system,
either it leaked out or it leaked into the engine or it was never properly bled.
Block tester gives you starting point for the condition of the engine.
If tester indicates a possible engine problem, it would be wise to look for a truck that doesnt have this problem
thanks, merlin...seems like a wise/logical place to start!
I did speak to the owner of the independent Rover-only shop that performed the engine work and he said the motor should be solid. They also just replaced the front driveshaft last week so it shouldn't be the culprit.
I described the noise to him and he said it could be the rear diff? (Noise comes on gradually and consistent with speed reaching a max at 60-65mph, but will fade what seems to be completely by 80mph. i can only describe it as a failing wheel bearing, but, again, no amount of side-to-side steering changed the noise. which, i guess, isnt definitive, but?
I did speak to the owner of the independent Rover-only shop that performed the engine work and he said the motor should be solid. They also just replaced the front driveshaft last week so it shouldn't be the culprit.
I described the noise to him and he said it could be the rear diff? (Noise comes on gradually and consistent with speed reaching a max at 60-65mph, but will fade what seems to be completely by 80mph. i can only describe it as a failing wheel bearing, but, again, no amount of side-to-side steering changed the noise. which, i guess, isnt definitive, but?
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