Rear ac?
#12
X1 ........ too true. It was 105F here a few days ago which lasted around 5 days and the CC front and rear was in use in my D2. I even considered taking the D4 out for the day it was so hot and humid.
#13
I use my ac about 7 or 8 months of the year, and occasionally throughout the winter, to help clear the windshield. If I can find a donor vehicle, I can do it.
I've looked my Land Rover over enough in the last few weeks, read enough about it, gotten alot of good help here, and have worked on enough vehicles over the years, that this thing is Easy to work on! It's a lego truck, aka, well designed to work on, which is rare.
I know that old parts, especially plastic, break. That's true with most junkyard vehicles that are 15 years+. I'm not concerned about losing a storage box either.
The fact that there is a seperate blower is obviously to move more air around, which means it gets and stays cooler quicker. Even with tinted windows and a radiant barrier above the headliner, and a good working front ac.
It's 90-100F +, with 90-100% humidity during spring, summer, and even early fall where I live in Va. I know my little girl would like some vents back there.
Now that I know what to expect, it's not that bad. I just have to find one. It's not at the top of my prioritys either, but a good winter project.
I have wanted a Discovery for over 20 years.
A few weeks ago, after looking for a long time, I finally found a good black on black 04(which is hard to come by here, I drove over 10 hours round trip to get it)
It's clean and straight, clean carfax, needs a few typical LR fixes(pdl, passenger window, valve cover gaskets, ect), but the previous owner had already done quite a few, and had some new gaskets for me to use. I think he just tapped out from replacing alot of regular maintenance, things that aren't cheap, and add up. And didn't want to take on the tick...which I'm finding and hopefully fixing next weekend. If not, it's block out and off to the machine shop.
The NADA and KBB values on this, with 122k miles is $6700.
I'm about a grand in parts from having this one near perfect, assuming no machine shop work is needed. I'm ordering parts tomorrow.
I gave $3k for it. I won't be in over my head on this until I order +2" springs, 32" all terrain tires/black steel wheels, fender flares, front/rear steel bumpers, skid plates, roof rack and ladder, some line-x'd trim, ect.
Everything in this LR works good, or is about to.
I have no plans to get rid off it(but you never know), regardless, when I find a complete rear air set up that I can afford, I'm buying it.
Thanks for all the info.
I've looked my Land Rover over enough in the last few weeks, read enough about it, gotten alot of good help here, and have worked on enough vehicles over the years, that this thing is Easy to work on! It's a lego truck, aka, well designed to work on, which is rare.
I know that old parts, especially plastic, break. That's true with most junkyard vehicles that are 15 years+. I'm not concerned about losing a storage box either.
The fact that there is a seperate blower is obviously to move more air around, which means it gets and stays cooler quicker. Even with tinted windows and a radiant barrier above the headliner, and a good working front ac.
It's 90-100F +, with 90-100% humidity during spring, summer, and even early fall where I live in Va. I know my little girl would like some vents back there.
Now that I know what to expect, it's not that bad. I just have to find one. It's not at the top of my prioritys either, but a good winter project.
I have wanted a Discovery for over 20 years.
A few weeks ago, after looking for a long time, I finally found a good black on black 04(which is hard to come by here, I drove over 10 hours round trip to get it)
It's clean and straight, clean carfax, needs a few typical LR fixes(pdl, passenger window, valve cover gaskets, ect), but the previous owner had already done quite a few, and had some new gaskets for me to use. I think he just tapped out from replacing alot of regular maintenance, things that aren't cheap, and add up. And didn't want to take on the tick...which I'm finding and hopefully fixing next weekend. If not, it's block out and off to the machine shop.
The NADA and KBB values on this, with 122k miles is $6700.
I'm about a grand in parts from having this one near perfect, assuming no machine shop work is needed. I'm ordering parts tomorrow.
I gave $3k for it. I won't be in over my head on this until I order +2" springs, 32" all terrain tires/black steel wheels, fender flares, front/rear steel bumpers, skid plates, roof rack and ladder, some line-x'd trim, ect.
Everything in this LR works good, or is about to.
I have no plans to get rid off it(but you never know), regardless, when I find a complete rear air set up that I can afford, I'm buying it.
Thanks for all the info.
#14
Hi
You might as well sell your truck and buy another with rear A/C rather than convert. It requires a rear A/C unit, A/C pipe work to the unit, ducts and outlets in the rear headliner and possibly a new headliner and electrical connections to the unit. It MAY mean changing the A/C compressor for a larger one, I don't know! It will mean tearing down so much of the truck it's cheaper to sell it and buy another with rear A/C. I have rear A/C in mine and it's good in the heat above 25-30C on CC but you'll need to run the A/C - CC all year round for at least 15 minutes per week to ensure the system and seals remain lubricated or they dry out and perish. Think carefully about this one, IMO it'll cost you a fortune and a lot of work.
PS: As Bom2oo2 says, a cargo bin would get more use in it's place.
You might as well sell your truck and buy another with rear A/C rather than convert. It requires a rear A/C unit, A/C pipe work to the unit, ducts and outlets in the rear headliner and possibly a new headliner and electrical connections to the unit. It MAY mean changing the A/C compressor for a larger one, I don't know! It will mean tearing down so much of the truck it's cheaper to sell it and buy another with rear A/C. I have rear A/C in mine and it's good in the heat above 25-30C on CC but you'll need to run the A/C - CC all year round for at least 15 minutes per week to ensure the system and seals remain lubricated or they dry out and perish. Think carefully about this one, IMO it'll cost you a fortune and a lot of work.
PS: As Bom2oo2 says, a cargo bin would get more use in it's place.
I can do the work.
I know how ac works.
Now I know it has a rear blower unit in one of the storage bins.
With a complete junkyard donor, it's really not that bad.
I would never pay to have it done.
I would imagine the rear controller and rear blower are the most commonly replaced parts. The duct and lines will likely be all there on a wreck that has rear air.
I would bet the money in the used parts will be majority blower and controller.
I don't see this as a major challenge at all.
Just some evenings and weekends though the winter.
#15
I can do the work.
I know how ac works.
Now I know it has a rear blower unit in one of the storage bins.
With a complete junkyard donor, it's really not that bad.
I would never pay to have it done.
I would imagine the rear controller and rear blower are the most commonly replaced parts. The duct and lines will likely be all there on a wreck that has rear air.
I would bet the money in the used parts will be majority blower and controller.
I don't see this as a major challenge at all.
Just some evenings and weekends though the winter.
I know how ac works.
Now I know it has a rear blower unit in one of the storage bins.
With a complete junkyard donor, it's really not that bad.
I would never pay to have it done.
I would imagine the rear controller and rear blower are the most commonly replaced parts. The duct and lines will likely be all there on a wreck that has rear air.
I would bet the money in the used parts will be majority blower and controller.
I don't see this as a major challenge at all.
Just some evenings and weekends though the winter.
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Sixpack577 (07-23-2017)
#16
Rover has shown a propensity to install all necessary harness and plugs, whether needed or not. I'd wager the basic harness and plugs you need are already there. Probably not for control harness, I would guess.
Check interior fuseblock, pull out block and look at back like picture below. First plug on left, 0585, should have three wires if factory wired for rear air. Look for Yellow /green wire. This is power supply from fuse 6 to rear air. If you have this on non-rear air, you may be off to a good start.
Check interior fuseblock, pull out block and look at back like picture below. First plug on left, 0585, should have three wires if factory wired for rear air. Look for Yellow /green wire. This is power supply from fuse 6 to rear air. If you have this on non-rear air, you may be off to a good start.
#17
Rover has shown a propensity to install all necessary harness and plugs, whether needed or not. I'd wager the basic harness and plugs you need are already there. Probably not for control harness, I would guess.
Check interior fuseblock, pull out block and look at back like picture below. First plug on left, 0585, should have three wires if factory wired for rear air. Look for Yellow /green wire. This is power supply from fuse 6 to rear air. If you have this on non-rear air, you may be off to a good start.
Check interior fuseblock, pull out block and look at back like picture below. First plug on left, 0585, should have three wires if factory wired for rear air. Look for Yellow /green wire. This is power supply from fuse 6 to rear air. If you have this on non-rear air, you may be off to a good start.
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