HI again, OK now your talking , can this friend weld.....if so as you trying desperately to get this peg out, if he can then ditch the socket as a spacer to pull the peg out, replace it with a short 4 inch length of 2 -3 in thick wall pipe with a 1/2 in piece of flat plate as the end stop , with a suitable hole for a section of threaded bar welded to the peg




You can put 2 bolts to help you hold it when your doing up the nut


have fun with the welding

 

Well it's my weekend now and it looks like it'll be a frustrating one. The new centralizing pin comes on tomorrow from Atlantic British. I just ran the Disco for a bit to charge the battery, climbed under, laid out my tools and immediately the class 12.9 bolt snapped, leaving a small nub. Then using a small pipe wrench I started to twist it and it snapped off again in the peg.

This one was in there really tight so there's about to be lots of drilling and my neighbors will love me. My welder connection didn't pan out and I refuse to pay a shop to do it. Looks like I'm back to square one, a little behind that even.


Edit: This is where I'm at. Bolt stuck, none of my drill bits will get further than that. Without a welder, any way you all think I can attach my slide hammer to this? I've cut down to the peg on all three sections.

 

Remove or grind off all VINs or other identifying information.

Get your children out of the truck. (Wife optional.)

Tow the truck to an isolated, open area.

One gallon of gas.

One match.

Start smartphone video recorder. (Tripod recommended).

Pour gasoline all over the truck. (Add more gasoline as needed.)

Strike match (stay several feet away from the gasoline at this stage)

Toss match toward the truck.

Just kidding of course! But how many of us haven't considered this?

 

Oh that accurately describes my wishes over the past few weeks. This job is making me consider all my life choices up to this point.

 

Can you get a chisel into any of those cuts you've made to start to open them up?

 

I had just started to do that before I left to grab some more drill bits from the store but I didn't spend too much time at it yet. I plan to do some chiseling, some drilling, some tapping, some heating, and some slide hammering. Woof that sounds like a lot. I'll never do this job again lol.

Have you guys noticed a difference in the comfort driving after doing the conversion? On future Discos I think I may just stick with the rotoflex donut for ease of swapping on the trail. I can't imagine having to service this converted shaft while offroading no matter how doubtful it is to break.

 

HI I was expecting a "YES its out", you have been at it seriously, any photo from the side to show how far down the side it goes,

 

Ha ha trust me I was hoping I would be posting that exact thing. So my best drill bits couldn't tackle the 12.9 class bolt so I had to act drastically and I sawed off the half of the peg that included the bolt so I can start fresh and stick something in there.





As you can see the cuts are fairly deep but nothing crazy, this bad boy ain't about to split like a banana. These pictures and a previous one you posted thor, displayed a lot of rust around the peg walls. I have some pretty volatile surgical instrument rust remover that I'm going to pour down those cuts and give them some time to loosen up.

Any advice what I can use to get leverage off that hole? I'll have to wait till payday for a proper tap and die set but I'm half tempted to try forcing a much larger bolt inside. JB weld or a quick loctite application alone probably won't be enough to secure a rod for the slide hammer, eh? Gotta get creative with this one.

 

Wait a minute... Does the conversion not need the centralizing peg??? I went to put everything together in the living room and it seems there is no place for a peg. Did I order one needlessly?

 

Hi again, as I don't know what your replacing it with then the answer maybe YES, if it a standard 4 bolt prop you probably don't need one,

OK looking at what you have done the question bugging me is why are you drilling out a hole to tape a thread that going to break??????

when you could, thread the peg to take a big nut, as the welding was a none starter , that would possible tap the peg to take your sliding hammer !!

OK I like your idea of a larger bolt in side, but I don't think you should think of trying to used itb to push the peg out by pushing against the drive shaft it could do more damage than you want

I would possible drill a small hole all the way through, but just big enough to tap a thread to fit a grease nipple then fit a grease nipple and start filling it with grease, you can get a lot of pressure from a high pressure grease gun, or

have you tried to knock the 3 side after cutting the centre to see if there is any give, is a casting it may break off for you , or you could help it by cutting at the back, its a bit tight but it may help

well good luck maybe tomorrow will do it