When you are converting from the RotoFlex drive shaft ( 3 point flange) to a double U-joint shaft THEN.....
150 million % you will NEVER USE THE Centralizing Peg AGAIN !!!!!!!!!!

 

Well that's another $30 spent without need. Grr. Glad to know I'll never have to deal with it again though. I've gone astray from all advice and gone the brute force method and I think I qualify for worst luck in LR repairs 2020. Chisels, heat, hammers, slide hammer vice grips, and finally splitting it open like a banana. Why won't this &@!1?& thing let go?! Tomorrow will be the day but holy smokes this is one for the books.




Anyone want to come finish this job for me? My fingers, knuckles, elbows, knees, hips, spirit and soul are damaged and I may never recover.

 

Wow that looks serious, I was thinking and correct me if I'm wrong, but if you did put the puller on wrong at the first attempt you push it in hard

as for the now not needed peg, take a measurement of how far it goes in , so you can cut near the base if you have to. then send it back for a refund

well looking at it now you definitely need a cutting torch Oxy -Acetylene, or a welder to get it very hot fast and weld something on to fit a big sliding hammer to it

you do have another option , remove your axle half shafts, then remove the diff, this will allow you to work on the peg standing up and not laying down underneath, as now your diff is out take to a shop and get them to finish the removal of the peg and flange, you could at this point just put in a second hand diff, having removed the peg and fitting your new 4 bolt flange before installing it back into the axle

good luck with it

 

Okay all, the new shaft and flange are installed and I test drove it around town last night, works great, took care of the phantom vibration I had even still after a rotoflex coupler replacement.

As agonizing as it was to hack away at the peg and mallet away pieces of flange, it cleared the path for me to saw through the rest with a reciprocating saw in about 10 minutes directly through the peg. After removing the sawn off portion, I set the old flange on the 36mm socket and it took one smack with the mallet to knock out the remainder of the peg. I'm confused why my 5lb slide hammer was useless for this job but my 3lb mallet knocked it out like nothing? Either way, I'm glad it's out.

As for the rest, I'll be writing to Atlantic British as their installation instructions set me back a good 45 minutes scratching my head trying to follow the diagram and make sense of the parts they fail to mention exist, vital steps that they don't cover, and the proper order of the kit. Which could be different depending on your application, whether RRC, D1, D2 99-02, D2 03-04 that they also fail to mention.

I'm going to add this little tidbit for anyone that uses the search function or maybe Google's algorithm will link someone to this who is struggling someday.

In the application of the rotoflex to u-joint rear driveshaft flange conversion for specifically a 99-02 Discovery II, there is included in the kit a spacer of which initial placement is critical. Also as a side note, there is a thick washer inside the 3-hole original flange that is NOT included in the kit and must be retrieved to install the new flange. The order of installation is as follows:
Replace the pinion seal.
Place the spacer on the splines leading into the diff, and push it back in there.
After attaching the dust cover to the new flange as pictured in Atlantic British's instructions, place the flange over the splines. You will have to tap the dust cover down fully onto the flange, which has NOT been done in the picture included by Atlantic British. After placing the flange, use a large socket or something to distribute force evenly and tap the new flange down onto the seal. Place the thick washer that you retrieved from the original flange into the face of the new flange, install the bolt at 74ft. lb. Install new shaft and go do some donuts after you buy yourself a beer.

Also while this thread is active, I noticed that the instructions on the website call for 90ft lbs for the bolt-style attachment but the paper instructions that came with it say 74 ft lbs. I know the torque is important to not go over and 74 felt plenty but what say any of you?

Edit 12/01/2020:
I called Atlantic British and they confirmed that the instructions had changed but the paper sent with the part had not. The correct torque for the BOLT style attachment (as there is also a nut style) is 90 foot pounds.

 

That's good news I've been waiting for your IT'S DONE!! congrates, I'll go and play with my 51 year old Morris Minor now as more a bucket of rust than a car