Rear Propshaft Removal Help
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TReK
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 3,167
Likes: 87
Lol he used the Blue Wrench....
Honestly I've never had one spin on me but I use an impact to remove them.
The land rover part # for the bolts is FRC3602 3/8x24x1 3/4"
The nyloc nuts NZ606041L
The 1/4" difference as was suggested earlier 1 1/2" may be the difference of the overall length.
The reason he is removing the driveshaft (which I suggested) is to check the park brake drum set screw.
I've seen this too many times (as many times as front driveshafts were replaced for the wrong reason) where the screw vibrates out then presses on the driveshaft flange causing a slight to severe driveline vibration . It's not always the case, but it's the right way to diagnose this issue based on the symptoms given, If it's loose and the vibration is fixed he's saved himself 300-400 for the time being. And the money saved can be spent on somthing else equally important(like a new brake booster)
If it's not fixed THEN a front driveshaft would be in order.
I'm only trying to help keep the priorities in order here.
Honestly I've never had one spin on me but I use an impact to remove them.
The land rover part # for the bolts is FRC3602 3/8x24x1 3/4"
The nyloc nuts NZ606041L
The 1/4" difference as was suggested earlier 1 1/2" may be the difference of the overall length.
The reason he is removing the driveshaft (which I suggested) is to check the park brake drum set screw.
I've seen this too many times (as many times as front driveshafts were replaced for the wrong reason) where the screw vibrates out then presses on the driveshaft flange causing a slight to severe driveline vibration . It's not always the case, but it's the right way to diagnose this issue based on the symptoms given, If it's loose and the vibration is fixed he's saved himself 300-400 for the time being. And the money saved can be spent on somthing else equally important(like a new brake booster)
If it's not fixed THEN a front driveshaft would be in order.
I'm only trying to help keep the priorities in order here.
And I appreciate it very much!!!! Just want to make sure Im getting the correct hardware for the job, so the part numbers you provided are very useful!
Camel Trophy
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 4,079
Likes: 227
From: IL
It's a standard hex head bolt. You're really over thinking this. Like I said, hop on
Mcmaster.com and order up some grade 8 nuts and bolts. Should run about $10, and you'll have extra for later use or your friends.
Mcmaster.com and order up some grade 8 nuts and bolts. Should run about $10, and you'll have extra for later use or your friends.
Thread Starter
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TReK
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 3,167
Likes: 87
Mind linking me to the specific nuts and bolts from Mcmaster, that will fit my Disco? I dont know **** about measurements and all these tools/hardware. I just see a bolt and try to visually match it lol.
Camel Trophy
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 4,079
Likes: 227
From: IL
Nuts, part #97135A235
Bolts, I don't recall the exact length. I thought it was 1.25" but others have said 1.75".
Links with McMaster don't work great, but their site is super easy to navigate.
Just remember Grade 8, 3/8"-24
Bolts, I don't recall the exact length. I thought it was 1.25" but others have said 1.75".
Links with McMaster don't work great, but their site is super easy to navigate.
Just remember Grade 8, 3/8"-24
Three Wheeling
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 58
Likes: 1
From: Spring Hill, TN
Nuts for new propshaft
So I want to be clear. I have all the said parts for the rebuild. What I do not have is the nuts. Should they be Nylock? I have seen posts for Grade 5 and Grade 8. 3/8" 24 TPI? Can someone please clarify this for me?
Rock Crawling
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 452
Likes: 26
From: Oregon, north of Salem
"are the nuts nylocks like the ones used on the front drive shaft? (a nut with plastic threads)
If so you should be able to heat the nuts hot enough to melt the nylon enough to pull the nuts off."
Bunk, ain't so. nylock nuts have that nylon only on end of nuts, that functions to lock the nut, rather than using a lock washer, with steel threads otherwise on remainder of nut, so melting the nylon will not allow them to be pulled out with any ease
To remove the nuts from the moving bolts, do as I did, and put an open end wrench on the head of the bolt, and a boxed end wrench on the nylock nut, and turn it off. Don't use pair of open end wrenches, as you are likely to round off corners of nuts. Worked for me!!!
If so you should be able to heat the nuts hot enough to melt the nylon enough to pull the nuts off."
Bunk, ain't so. nylock nuts have that nylon only on end of nuts, that functions to lock the nut, rather than using a lock washer, with steel threads otherwise on remainder of nut, so melting the nylon will not allow them to be pulled out with any ease
To remove the nuts from the moving bolts, do as I did, and put an open end wrench on the head of the bolt, and a boxed end wrench on the nylock nut, and turn it off. Don't use pair of open end wrenches, as you are likely to round off corners of nuts. Worked for me!!!
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