Hello all,

My rear window defroster keeps burning up fuses, and so basically will not work. The switch light remains on though.

Has anyone had this problem, and how did you manage to fix it?

Oh, and what is the best way to remove the clock to replace the light inside, without breaking anything?

Thanks
Toby

 

On the rear defroster issue......you got a short somewhere. Most likely in the rubber "condom" around the hinges where is bends all the time when you open and close the door. This is the best location to start from....but really...the short could be anywhere.

On the clock issue....sorry but I haven't done one. Look in the RAVE and see if it can be replaced. Maybe someone here already had done it.

Cheers!

 

I changed the clock bulb a long time ago. The whole clock assembly comes out of the dash as it is just clipped in place. I don't remember if I used a VERY small screwdriver, or a credit card, to release the locking tabs.

 

If you refer to fuse F8 in the underhood box, that's 30 - 40 amp, so will take a good short.

Circuit gets battery volts from relay in passenger fuse box, then travels to rear door area, a large connector, and from there through the rubber door "hose" and to element, with another connector inside the door.

Brown/purple wire.

I would test by removing F8. Meter for battery volts on each side of fuse socket, to ground. Once you find hot side, then switch meter to "ohm" and read OTHER side to ground, with button pushed and truck running. Should be a low reading, like 10 - 15 ohms or less. One person watches meter, other person opens door, flex wire rubber hose protector, etc. to see if ohms change. Other places to read are at the connectors on attached pages.

Important to note that this same fuse also operates driver and passenger front door mirrors, so fuse blowing may be caused by something closer to the driver. The heating element in the rear window on draws about 1 amp.

Might try excercising the mirrors to see if you can blow the fuse. Will need more fuses.