OK, fresh start.

Underhood fuse box - battery volts go thru fuse F13 (10 amp) - then thru inertia switch then back to fuse box and Main relay. Ground for relay SWITCHED on/off by ECM.

Battery volts from main relay contacts sent to coil of fuel pump relay in same underhood fuse box. Ground side of fuel pump relay connected to ECM, which switches ground on/off to control relay. Fuel pump relay takes battery volts from Fuse 10 (30 amp) and sends it to fuel pump in tank.

So no fuel is either bad pump (if volts are there, and you know that pump should not be run "dry"), or a decision of the ECU not to supply ground to main relay or fuel pump relay. The BCU is functional, because it supplies ground to starter relay.

Or a bad relay, should be able to remove and meter. Main, fuel, and crank relays are alike. Coil is 85 and 86, common is 30 (80?), normally closed is 87A, normally open (closed when energized)
is 87.

 

Ok so I switched out the fuel relay for the one next to it and still nothing. I sprayed a little bit of starting fluid into the intake and it stumbles and fires just a bit so I am getting spark and no fuel. Interia switch I have pushed 100 times. Fuses all still good. Going now to dig through the rave and find the plug for the fuel pump and see if I am getting 12 volts back there. I should be able to "hear" the pump when the key is first turned on correct? I am leaning away from a bad pump because we drove the thing home and it ran. Its been parked for 6 weeks while I was rebuilding the motor, hard to imagine that the pump went bad while sitting in a garage with 75 degree weather. I read somewhere that a bad crank sensor would cause no spark or fuel is that right? I am getting spark so that should rule out a problem with crank sensor even though this one is brand new

 

No spark = crank sensor

No fuel = pump and or that circuit, possibly fuel pump regulator in pump assembly). Schrader pressure test point hard to get to, tucked under intake.

From Rave:

The fuel pump is a 'self priming' wet type pump which is immersed in fuel in the tank. The fuel pump operates at all
times when the ignition switch is in position II. If the engine is not started, the ECU will 'time-out' after 2 seconds and
de-energise the fuel pump relay to protect the pump. The pump receives a feed from the battery via fuse 10 in the
engine compartment fusebox and the fuel pump relay. The relay is energised by the ECM when the ignition switch is
moved to position II.
The fuel pump is retained with a locking ring and sealed with a rubber seal. The locking ring requires a special tool
for removal and fitment. An access panel for the fuel pump is located in the loadspace floor below the loadspace
carpet. The access panel is sealed to the floor with a rubber seal and retained by six self-tapping screws.
The fuel gauge sender is integral with the fuel pump. The sender is submerged in the fuel and is operated by a float

which moves with the fuel level in the tank.

 

I got to the schrader valve and pulled the cap. After cranking and with the key still on I used a very small screwdriver to push the valve in and nothing. Should be pressurized and squirt fuel back. Not a drop of fuel and zero pressure. Also, I am listening carefully and I can't hear the pump kicking on when I turn the key on. From everything I have read it sounds like I should be able to hear the pump kick on when turning the key on. I cannot. What is my next step? Pull the carpet up and take the access panel off to start testing for 12v at the pump? Is there an easier way to get to the fuel pump plug to test for 12v?

 

The other night when I first read this post, and looked at wiring diagrams, the inertia switch was the first thing that jumped out at me as possibly being shorted and blowing the fuse. It's too late tonight (long day at work=repeated beerings), but I will check the wiring diagrams and find a way to test the inertia switch tomorrow. Feel free to research testing and/or bypassing in the meantime.

 

I would remove fuel pump relay, and install a jumper for say 30 seconds to force pump on for testing. Can you tell if main relay and fuel pump relay click on when turned to "run" (not start)? If no relay operation, no need to go to pump just yet.

 

Inertia switch is dry contacts, so can just jump out (it is normally closed). It controls Main relay with help from ECU. Not shown on the charging diagram, it also runs battery volts to to something in under dash fuse box.

 

I will check that tonight. I pulled the plug going to Intertia switch and there are three contacts. Any idea which two to jump ? As for relay turning on, I am not sure. I have been working on it by myself up until now, but I will have my dad come over tonight and work the key while I listen/feel the relay to see if it is clicking on. If not, all the yellow relays lined up appear to be the same. I should be able to swap one out for another to rule out a faulty relay correct? Or as mentioned above jump across the relay to force pump to kick on.

 

see attached. I believe 1 & 3 would be the ones to jumper.

Relays are same if part # on bottom or side is same.

 

Yes looks like 1 and 3 are the way to go. Thank you very much buzz. You are the man when it comes to these wiring diagrams. I am going to have my dad come over and work the key while I do some checking. Bypassing the inertia switch and then I will see what I have if not that I will bypass the relay. After that I will see if I am getting fuel to the pump or not. I read in another post about a guy who let his 04 sit awhile and the pump "stuck". He took it out and bench tested and got it going and put it back and it was ok. Since this thing sat for a long time before I got it, drove it home on absolute E fuel and sat for another 6 weeks and now only has about 3 gals in it I wonder if it mine is "stuck".