Relocating spare tire mount/larger tires
spacers will probably push them into the front wheel arch, alloys should tuck alright but might rub on the inside of the wheel somewhere. I know I had some trimming to do with 285s on steel wheels (different offset than the alloys). I trimmed my ARB bumper back and the whole front arch as well as the first inch or so of my sliders. I was on probably a 2" lift when I had to do that but the springs and shocks were roasted so hard to say where I was at exactly.
Well, I'm not trying to pick a fight but I still say it's not inherently incredibly dangerous. It can be turned into a dangerous situation by someone who doesn't know what they're doing and does this without first determining if it's actually going to support the wheel safely. In which case I would argue that the individual is the dangerous component. Whatever, we can pleasantly disagree. On the bright side, I used your comments as motivation to prevent a dangerous situation from occurring at my house by flipping my mount and I'll share the experience here. It took about an hour, in fact it took longer to download and resize the photos and type this out than it did to redo the mount.
First strip your door of whatever speakers you may have, the door handle surround, perhaps a grab bar if you have a 7-seater and the inner panel, then carefully strip down the moisture barrier. That will expose the 6 nuts shown here. You can just poke through the moisture barrier if you want, but that's not my personal style.

Next, remove your spare tire if you haven't already done so, otherwise you'll be in for a huge surprise when you take the six nuts off! An electric impact helps with the nuts because it's difficult to hold the boltheads while you remove the nuts unless your arms are 6' long. Be careful taking it all apart, the thick steel spacers between the bracket and the door can fall and scratch stuff.
Now the most important part. Use the steel spacers to mark and match drill the bracket so you can reuse all six mounting bolts. If you don't, the two center holes will be obscured and you will be reduced to using only four bolts. If you're looking to improve safety then don't skip this step.

You will need to remove the rear wiper arm and rotate it clockwise about 15° so it will clear the edge of the inverted bracket. Remove it before installing the modified bracket back on the door.
Install the bracket with the steel spacers and tighten all six bolts. Reinstall the wiper arm. Replace the moisture barrier and reassemble the rear door trim; panel, handles, speakers, etc.
Remount the spare tire in the new orientation.

Note the gap between the bumper and the tire is significantly less than it is by simply flipping the spare tire and not the bracket. The upside is the rear window will be slightly more usable than before, but it still leaves a little to be desired. According to the tirerack website these tires measure about 31.5" so I think a 32 will fit but if you have bigger tires than that you will likely need a different solution.

Edit: and yes, it is worth noting that the spare tire is moved closer to the center of the truck as shown when comparing the before and after photos I posted.
First strip your door of whatever speakers you may have, the door handle surround, perhaps a grab bar if you have a 7-seater and the inner panel, then carefully strip down the moisture barrier. That will expose the 6 nuts shown here. You can just poke through the moisture barrier if you want, but that's not my personal style.

Next, remove your spare tire if you haven't already done so, otherwise you'll be in for a huge surprise when you take the six nuts off! An electric impact helps with the nuts because it's difficult to hold the boltheads while you remove the nuts unless your arms are 6' long. Be careful taking it all apart, the thick steel spacers between the bracket and the door can fall and scratch stuff.
Now the most important part. Use the steel spacers to mark and match drill the bracket so you can reuse all six mounting bolts. If you don't, the two center holes will be obscured and you will be reduced to using only four bolts. If you're looking to improve safety then don't skip this step.

You will need to remove the rear wiper arm and rotate it clockwise about 15° so it will clear the edge of the inverted bracket. Remove it before installing the modified bracket back on the door.
Install the bracket with the steel spacers and tighten all six bolts. Reinstall the wiper arm. Replace the moisture barrier and reassemble the rear door trim; panel, handles, speakers, etc.
Remount the spare tire in the new orientation.

Note the gap between the bumper and the tire is significantly less than it is by simply flipping the spare tire and not the bracket. The upside is the rear window will be slightly more usable than before, but it still leaves a little to be desired. According to the tirerack website these tires measure about 31.5" so I think a 32 will fit but if you have bigger tires than that you will likely need a different solution.

Edit: and yes, it is worth noting that the spare tire is moved closer to the center of the truck as shown when comparing the before and after photos I posted.
Last edited by ahab; Mar 18, 2021 at 06:26 PM.
Thanks for the valuable information. I installed the CFE bumper and winch package from Lucky 8. I was a little concerned with the 285's but I guess not enough to stop me. My downfall according to my first wife. Thanks again, and apologize for getting off topic.
"Speed is fine, but accuracy is final" Wyatt Earp 1892
"Speed is fine, but accuracy is final" Wyatt Earp 1892
I am the original poster on this and thought I'd follow up. I removed and modified my existing spare tire holder, with thanks to AHAB for is excellent write up. It all went smoothly and was an easy job. I have 32.1" tires and with my aftermarket steel rear bumper I have less than 1/2" clearance between the tire and top of the bumper.
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