Hello All,

I have determined that my brake booster is bad after replacing pads/rotors and a new TRW master cylinder. Has anyone ever cracked the the lines on the master cylinder and scooted it aside and replaced the brake booster?

I have seen it on YouTube where people have moved it away with flex lines, but the Rover has all hard lines.

Any help would be appreciated.

 

I would (and have) just remove it. When you go back to bleed it, just bench bleed the master, then bleed the hard line where it goes into the ABS unit. That will prevent almost all air from getting in. Then bleed at your wheels.


you probably can just bend the hard lines, but I wouldn't want to risk cracking one.


You don't actually need an ABS tool to bleed your lines if you do it right. Hell, I've even replaced the master and the ABS module without an ABS tool. It just takes patience.

 

Haven't needed to do R&R on a D2. Recently replaced booster on a friends F150, it also had hard lines. They easily flexed enough to gain clearance to remove booster. Never thought of cracking lines and doubt it would make easier to move. Looked at my D2 today and I'd at least give it a try prior to removing MC.
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Thanks guys, I will give it a shot and report back with pictures, when I have the Master cylinder suspended if its at all possible. I know the hard lines have brackets that I may be able to pull them out of to give a little more flex.

 

Yes, this is 100% possible to replace your brake booster without removing your master cylinder. It helps to scoot everything forward and by this I mean. Unhook your power steering reservoir. Un-Screw the 3 nuts on the ABS modulator, move it towards the drivers headlight. Unhook all the hard brake lines from the retaining clips. I needed to crack the hard ABS lines on the back of the ABS modulator slightly. I got a few drips but re-tightened once I moved it. Now your ready to unhook the Master Cylinder and bring it up and to the left of the Booster/Servo(that is what Land Rover calls a brake booster).

Next unscrew the 2 bolts in the foot-well on the firewall. Twist out the brake switch. You can use your fingers to release the retaining clip on the brake pedal. Now wiggle the brake booster free. Put all items back in reverse order. It took me about 1.25 hours in 90* heat but not bleeding the brakes AGAIN was so worth it. Picture tonight.

I replaced the vacuum hose from the top manifold to the brake booster, I figure it was original and that check valve was going on 13 years old. I blew into it and it was still good.

 

Good to know it worked, the tips, and loosening some lines helped. Thanks.
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