Yes. But it will suck. Just pull the intake. I've done it my 99 both way, and it was faster and less painful to just pull the upper intake.

Get one of ERR6621 from RovahFarm for all your new Land Rover Parts and Accessories

Your 2004 probably has SAI like my 2003, and it will make it just that much more difficult to do with the intake in place.

 

Because they are finicky, I just wanted to make sure: should I use a) dielectric grease on the wire sockets and b) anti-seize on the plug threads? Thanks.

 

Alright guys, I thought I might add some detail from my experience for the guys who don't already have a lot of metric/heavy duty tools or that want some more detail before starting this job. I finished in just under about 3 hours of actual working, but had two trips to the store because of things I didn't know I needed/things broke.
First of all, a huge thing for me was removing these hoses.

The tube removal in step four was impossible for me without removing these, so I thought I would share that. They use the pinch to open clamps.
Second, for those who are going to have to use a loaner torque wrench, or for those who buy one for the job, make sure you have a three piece socket extender set. I used all three lengths at one time or another to try and get to the spark plugs. I am not sure how much they cost at harbor freight, but at Lowe's they were $22 (for a 1/2" drive)! Since I had bought my 1/2 drive torque wrench the day before at Harbor Freight for only $9.99 (on sale from $19.99) I was floored. I paid the price, though, because it was my second trip to the store that day and I needed to finish. Other tools needed for this job include 10mm, 8mm and 6mm sockets, the same sizes in box/open end wrenches (to take off the two nuts on step 4, only a box end wrench will work), some larger pliers (I used Channel Locks 440) to pinch the pinch-to-open clamps, a 5/8 spark plug socket, and the previously mentioned torque wrench with extenders. I would also recommend getting a large pillow that can get dirty, or covering a pillow in tarp and laying it over the engine block. you will be on your stomach looking into the coil area for a while. Lighting was a huge issue for me, even with a work light hanging above me, so I wore a headlamp to see back into where the coils are.
As for the torque wrench: the RAVE manual says to tighten to 15 ft/lbs and the Bosch plug box says to tighten to 21 ft/lbs. I didn't know which to follow. Since the torque wrench I bought only went down to 20, I was thinking that I would just go to 20 and hope that there were no issues. Then I read on Bosch's website: "If a torque wrench is not available, hand tighten the plug until it is seated in the cylinder head. Spark plugs with gaskets should be tightened an additional 90°." Since these had gaskets, I tightened another 90 after they needed real pressure to tighten.
The Platinum +4 series, although showing in the Autozone computer as "in stock" were all gone, and the clerk had no idea where they were. I got the Bosch Iridium OE Finewires (9652), as they were the best quality plug (judging based upon price) that was in stock. I but dielectric grease on the coil side of the plug wires and on the wire set side of the plugs. I used anti-seize on the plug threads.
I also went with 8mm Kingborne wires, as I could not imagine spending $85 instead of $50. I hope they work great, because I don't want to have to redo this job. Thanks to OP.

 

Thank you, thank you, thank you for the instructions - I would have pulled my hair out without them.

A couple of things that helped along the way:

- The screwdriver tool is a must. I thought I had a cheapie long flathead, but didn't, so I started off with a regular one...not working. I sacrificed one of my Craftsmans (I figure I can always take it back and exchange it) and things instantly got easier.

- A big stack of old towels on the intake manifold will let you lay on top of the engine..I also used a ladder to get up there easily.

- a 10mm ratcheting box end wrench will make quick work of the bolts on that wretched air pipe across the back. I hate that damn thing...it is like a bar puzzle getting it out and back in again.

- Go slowly with what goes where on the coil. My GF was nice enough to help me - I just told her which wire came from the top and bottom of the coil and she made sure I didn't mess anything up.

Seriously, once the wire loom is moved up and that infernal pipe is out of the way, it isn't all that tough, just takes a little patience.

I rushed the last one and messed up one of the wire connectors a little bit on cylinder 8 at the coil. If it starts missing, I bet I could get that one back in just by feel without removing anything...that is an exception to the rule, though.

Thanks again.

 

This is an excellent thread, and I did it.

Here was the problem leading me to do this: too much money spent on Rover, including rebuilt engine for slipped sleeve. Subsequent problems too numerous to list, but last straw was misfire on 4 and 7. Mechanic said I needed a new coil. I found a broken ignition wire - but since the plugs were only 5 months old, I didn't need to replace those.

So...since I didn't need to swap the plugs, I only disconnected the Secondary Air Injection tubes at the back of the engine. NOTHING ELSE. I could not, however, get that Secondary Air Injection pipe out of the way - and if I did, I wasn't convinced I would ever get it back in. So there wasn't much room, and I just had to push it around and out of the way a little at a time.

While it wasn't easy, and I had to finally get my wife on top of the engine to stick her hands back there to plug the last ignition wire into the last plug on the coil, I was able to change out all the ignition wires while only disconnecting the SAI, and nothing else.

My Rover has never sounded so good or run so smooth.

Excellent thread - thank you.

 

Did it this way after separating a plug wire from boot while inspecting the plugs. Took about 2 hrs and was not that hard at all. Be prepared to literally lay on top of the engine bay to get access to the coil packs. All in all way better than removing the intake manifold, but challenging nonetheless.

And as an aside, the car runs so much smoother at idle now.

 

Great post! I finished mine tonight with a friend. Took us about an hour to do it. I wouldn't have attempted the intake manifold way. So my truck thanks you too

I would like to know the engineer who decided the coil pack was best being behind the engine. I think a good smack upside their head would make me feel better
Joey
Disco II 2003. 125k

 

hell im new to the fourm just got my 03 lr d2 need to change plug wires on it. please help. dnot want to take off upper manifold to do the job

 

man thanks deepbluewater for the info im new to the fourm an my lr2 thanks

 

Thanks for the posts.

Started with misfire with P0301, P0306, P1300. A local shop replaced the ignition coil, but still the same problem. I then followed the recommendation here and replaced the ignition wires and spark plugs, it is all good now.

Something to share based on my experience: while you have to lay on top of engine bay doing the work, be extra careful when you have to change your body position or something like that, not to land your elbows, knees etc. on any of those fragile plastic parts. While almost done with the wire/plug replacements, I accidentally broke the coolant bleed tube (hose from expansion tank to radiator), so I had to wait another week to order a new hose. Also cracked the plastic protection cover above the belt/pully, but that was taken care of by Gorilla glue, no big deal.