SHUTTER VALVE

 

Nice!

 

did you replace the o-rings that cause the valve to go bad or did you just replace the valve

 

The SVS failure will come back until you cure the real problem. The best thing to do is the "option B" repair.
PM me and I will send you a file I have on the repair if you cannot find the sticky on here, I just looked and cant find it anymore.

 

Ok... I wanted to follow up on what is currently going on with my 3 Amigos. I used the code reader at the beginning to get the faults. The codes being thrown were - SVS electrical failure, EGC ground fault, and LH sensor failure.

What I have done this far - cleaned contacts on rear sensor (fault gone), replaced SVS with new one (fault intermittent now) and cleaned all applicable grounds and added conductive grease (fault gone). I have read many of the ABS / 3 Amigo threads here, and I know that the suggested repair is the 'Option B'. But will that really fix what is going on.... the current fault is intermittent. It will throw code at unusual times, at startup, after an hour, or after 5 min... no real discernible patter.

Before I go down the path of modifying my ABS Modulator, I would really like to know what the cause is. Is it internal to the Modulator? Or is it an electrical issue? Or is it my squealing brake pads with excessive brake dust? For the brake squeal issue I have new ceramic pads read to install (which may help - according to what I have read)

I am not against doing 'Option B' repair, but I would really like to know what the cause of the fault is first. I would appreciate any feedback / guidance from the experienced mbrs here - what is going on?

Thank you for the help and your time.

 

I can't speak to the ground fault. I can understand your reluctance to cut open a wire and bypass the connector as a whole. Based on the number of folks who have successfully completed the Option B repair...
I was not inclined to dig into the modulator and find the loose pin, so it was B for me. My 3 amigos had no pattern at all either, but i just could not take it anymore. I remember someone teaching me to engage the HDC system so that it did not "forget" how to work. It cured it for a month or so, but I finally caved in.
I'm not sure that your obsession with finding the absolute root cause is healthy. After all we choose to drive a Rover, and deal with it's idiosyncrasies

 

Clint70, there are three elements that can result in the 114:Shuttle Valve Electric Failure code. And one of the three is often the result of another of the three so there are typically only two root causes. Replacing the switches addresses only one of the three, is not one of the two most typical root causes, and in my case nearly four years ago wasn't necessary at all. And no, squealing brake pads and excessive brake dust have nothing to do with producing the shuttle valve electric failure code.

The legendary Josh Salas made a wonderful contribution to this and other LR forums when he methodically and painstakingly analyzed the problem and came up with his now famous Option B fix. But if you read Josh's write-up carefully you'll see that he does not suggest leaping to Option B when the shuttle valve electric failure is indicated. He outlines first removing the switch pack and then inspecting and testing it.

The inspection is simple, just check whether or not brake fluid has leaked past the shuttle valve seals and is present on the switches. We're told that brake fluid fouls the switches. If that's the case replacing the switch pack doesn't address the root cause, which is the leaking shuttle valve seals. The LR technical bulletin says "A small amount of fluid seepage past the hydraulic shuttles is normal," "There should be no fluid dripping from the cover" and "When the shuttle valve switches are removed there may be a light covering of brake fluid over its inner surface. This is no cause for concern." It's up to us to decide what is a "small amount" and what is excessive. Short of replacing the entire modulator the only fix for leaking seals is the seal kit sold by Falconworks. If the switches are replaced without replacing the seals they will presumably fail again, days, weeks or months later.

Whether or not the inspection shows fouling from leaking brake fluid the next step is to test the switches. The procedure for testing is set out in Josh's write-up. If the switches pass the ohm meter test there is no reason I know of to replace them. I suppose it's possible the switches can fail without having been fouled by brake fluid but their design is very simple and seemingly robust so it doesn't seem likely. I could be wrong, but that's why I don't consider SVS failure without brake fluid fouling to be a root cause.

In my case there wasn't even a small amount of brake fluid on the switches; they were completely dry. And they passed the ohm meter test. I therefore didn't replace the seals or the switches, reasoning (as a tightwad) that I would risk having to spend an hour some time later to replace them in order to save a hundred bucks. Others (Disco Mike) say to go ahead and replace the seals and switches anyway. Nearly four years later my decision has been a good one for me (for now).

So on to Option B. If the switches and seals are good the only thing left that may have failed is the circuitry inside the modulator solenoid pack. In fact, maybe even if the switches and/or seals are bad and need to be replaced you should go ahead and do Option B. The reason I say that is that the cost of doing the Option B fix when you have the switches out is something like $3 and a little time, plus some solder and heat shrink tubing, as opposed to the hundred bucks I chose to not spend to replace the switches when they were okay.

It's important to understand that Option B does not bypass anything critical in the anti-lock braking system nor does it leave the system disabled at all. The word "bypass" refers only to bypassing the circuitry in the solenoid pack that is prone to failure.

So in your case, clint70, you've replaced the switches only recently. It's unlikely they've gone bad again so quickly unless there was a lot of brake fluid on the old ones. That points to the Option B fix making sense as the next step for you. Good luck.

 

Thank you mln01, I really appreciate the detailed response.... I will go back an re- read Josh's article. I think you have helped me clearly understand the issue, and that will let me make the right diagnosis and repair.

I love my Rover, and like the challenge of getting familiar with the details of what makes it tick .

Cheers!!

 

What ABS/SRS scanner(s) work with the european cars? All the ones I've tried only work with US and asian cars. They work to read the OBD II codes for the CEL, but not the ABS/SRS codes.

 

I am using the Autotel 619, it was 100.00 on Amazon. It is not the best choice but it is the least expensive.

Here is the link: