What is the right way to install the new front seal if I don't have the land rover special tool? Tap it in with what? and should I put it in the cover prior to install? Should I add grease or RTV? And while were talking about it what about the cover, pan and water pump gaskets? Follow rave or add additional gasket sealant?

 

Put the seal in before putting the timing cover on.
Tap it in with a piece of pvc pipe or block of wood, and use a small amount of clean oil or vaseline on the inner seal and crank snout, so the seal doesn't tear when you install it.
Pack the oil pump with vaseoline and/or assembly lube.
Put a thin bead of rtv silicone on both sides of the timing cover and waterpump gaskets.
A new o-ring on the oil pickup tube, lubed with oil or vaseoline.
3 bolts to replace the 3 studs on the bottom of the timing cover simplifies things.

 

Is it possible to adjust the idle on these? I have a bumpy Idle with misfires and it goes away when I increase the RPM slightly. Can I adjust the idle and do you think any harm could come of bumping up the idle to 800 RPM or so?

 

I had the same problem and mine was leaking a bunch of oil. Mine outside gear was only broken into 3 pieces not four. haha. I also replaced the timing chain and gears. My front engine cover had some weird marks on it and some cracks near the front so I ordered a new cover from Lucky 8. If yours was broken in four pieces I would seriously look at replaceing that front cover.

 

There is probably a correct way to increase the idle speed if you have the right ODB2 computer, but I bumped up my idle to 800 rpms via the mechanical cable double-bolt adjustment on the back/upper throttle cable which the Disco ECU hates and initially fights but with a steady hand and some patience you can get the sweet spot.

I can't fathom any harm in an 800 rpm idle. To me, that's the same as driving slowly at 800 rpms. Heck, you are going to rev to 2,500 rpms for 30 straight minutes in Park just to break in a new camshaft, by design. Harm?!


My personal opinion is that 500 to 750 rpms for factory idle was too low for the oil pump and *that* was probably doing damage to Discos for decades.

 

I can't find any cracks or "odd" marks on the oil pump cover. I did clean it up with a little oil soaked 400 grit. What else should I inspect on the front cover. I'm surprised how much friction there is when turning the pump gears after lubing with engine builders lube and mounting in the housing (3 lb-ft on the screws with blue locktite)

 

The Rave shows how to put a feeler gage under the pump gears to measure clearance between them and the cover.
But wihout any scoring or grooves, it should be ok.
Hopefully you used a flat block to sand it, and didn't remove very much material, 400 grit removes aluminum easily.

 

Yes, I used a flat block. But I cant find anything in the rave about the clearance on the oil pump gears. There are other specs I have read on the forum about the torque on the cover screws that I cant find in my rave either. I wonder if I have an earlier edition.

 

Everything is back together. Oil pressure is up 8 pounds at hot idle and 10 at 2000 rpms. The loud tick I was chasing is gone