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They definitely are. Sounds like you have a handle on this, but you have also mentioned that you have not historically been mechanically involved, so I am gonna share what I have learned about O2 sensors. I am sure I will upset guys way more knowledgeable than I. There are aspects of the below for comedic effect...I think they will be obvious.
There are four. Two between the engine and the cats and two between the cats the Y pipe that merges the exhaust before the resonator. They are called "Upstream" (before the cat) and "Downstream" (after the cat). The RAVE diagrams are on 17-2-56/57, 30-2-7, but they are a guide to someone that knows in this case, not someone that doesn't know.
Above you are showing the passenger upstream connector and bung. This is one of the two "easy" ones. The drivers side upstream sensor is harder to access because the engine is offset from centerline to the drivers side. As a result you have two break your wrist and your arm two places to reach the sensor and connector. Also, it is useful if you have two hands on the end of your right arm when trying to reach in there cause you need two hands, but two arms don't really fit.
The drivers side downstream sensor and connector are also easy to access. Right under the drivers seat.
The passenger side downstream sensor is easy to access. But the connector is on top of the transfer case. I have attached a picture of mine taken through the tunnel cover. Easy to get to after you have your center console out and the tunnel cover rivets drilled out and the tunnel cover sitting in your workshop. Not so much from underneath where you can see or touch but not both. The picture is to give you a mental picture of what you are feeling when you reach up in here. The sensor is the connector with the red, green, white wires. I had to re-wire mine and I already had the center console out so the easy button was removing the tunnel cover.
As you go through them, feel free to continue to ask questions.
Ok, so I went to a local rover mechanic (supposed to be one of the best in the area) and I was not quite impressed with what he discovered. In summary:-F 10mm R 10mm.
-Aftermarket Y pipe installed
-no front 02 sensors
-Exhaust leak at manifold flange gaskets, -Oil leaks at front crank seal, rear main seal, Rear pinion seal, and transfer case.
-Recommend updated servicable front drive shaft.
-Service engine light is on :Front 02 sensor faults bank A and B
this will be the first time I’d be working on a car, but Im thinking of giving it a try anyway and see how many of these I can do myself.
It's as good a place as any to start. The first "real" car work I did was replacing the struts and half-shafts on my 1981 Toyota Tercel. This will be a bit easier than that was.
I kinda outlined above the challenges with the O2 sensors. If you just have to deal with the front two it won't be bad. Passenger side is quite easy due the adequate space. Drivers side will be a bit of a challenge.
Honestly, with the exhaust lead at the manifold flange there are three possibilities. Most likely is when the new Y pipe + cats were installed they cheaped out and re-used the old gaskets. Those gaskets don't re-use great and you get exhaust leaks. Next most likely is they didn't torque the nuts down correctly, and least likely is that they just failed for unrelated issues. Regardless, they are probably now roached and they aren't that much. I think I paid $3 each, but I was buying other stuff. Looks like you can next day them on amazon for $15. Just bite the bullet and replace them. Start soaking down the flange nuts with your favorite flavor of bolt removal lube now. And be sure the anti-seize the studs before you put nuts back on.
Unless the oil leaks are really bad, I would punt on those until after you address the missing O2 sensors and exhaust gaskets. The experience of working on these two issues is gonna tell you alot about how bad you wanna really do this stuff. No shame is saying that it's not for you. Just check those fluids very regularly.
Stuff you are gonna need you might not think of: I would suggest some crows feet wrenches and a set of pry bars from harbor freight. Beyond that a good socket set, screwdriver set and wrench set should get you there.
-Aftermarket Y pipe installed
no big deal lots of people here get ebay cheap ones, easy job to installl new gaskets, go on rock auto cheap name brand gaskets
-no front 02 sensors
easy job, get them cheap at rock auto also name brand bosh etc, now if wiring is screwed thats more involved, clean plugs very well,
-Exhaust leak at manifold flange gaskets, -Oil leaks at front crank seal, rear main seal, Rear pinion seal, and transfer case.
exhaust leak easy, if you are new to fixing cars other items might be a little more involved
-Recommend updated servicable front drive shaft.
very easy
-Service engine light is on :Front 02 sensor faults bank A and B
get a code readet, better yet ultragauge 100 % needed to check coolant temp
this will be the first time I’d be working on a car, but Im thinking of giving it a try anyway and see how many of these I can do myself.
Lol it could be so many things. Stuck purge valve wiring plugs rarely it’s the sensors themselves
Jimmy from Weatherford ,,, I just had my whole exhaust replaced and put duals on it! And new sensors on it now I've got a codes saying that all my sensors are not reading or function correctly . Maybe wiring harness?
Almost surely caused by the work just done. Poor or wrong O2 sensors? Sensors not plugged in properly? Sensor wiring damaged during the replacement? (Presumably was all good before the work).
Almost surely caused by the work just done. Poor or wrong O2 sensors? Sensors not plugged in properly? Sensor wiring damaged during the replacement? (Presumably was all good before the work).
yes sir I had my cats stolen so I had all exhaust replaced with dual exhaust and all new O2 sensors and cats.
Do you still have your old O2 sensors to try? Your ECU doesn’t know or care about the new cats or dual exhaust. It’s the sensors or their plugs/wiring.
