slipped sleeve? (pics)
#11
10-03-2014, 03:56 PM
about the existence of the step, robinson has a picture of a block with the step so I guess a picture is worth a thousand words. I haven't had the liner out of a block so, just going by that picture and what they say to go along with it, I suppose there is a step.
At any rate, pinning would keep them from moving up or down. It pins in through the side but, the liner would still need to be flush at the top. I could not sit above the deck surface. The ones that slip weren't seated all the way and they slip down to the step and back up to the head. If they were seated properly from the factory they couldn't move down, but once the factory milled the surface and the tops of the liners with it sitting 1/8" or so high it can't be pushed back all the way down to the step. It has to stay flush at the top and that leaves the gap at the bottom, and pinning just keeps it from moving either way up or down.
There are threads on the forum by people who have pinned. It's not the perfect fix, like drowssap says, but still it's a cheap alternative to spending $6K or $8K on a top-hated engine. If I personally had to spend $6K or $8K on my truck to keep it going I would probably have to scrap it.
At any rate, pinning would keep them from moving up or down. It pins in through the side but, the liner would still need to be flush at the top. I could not sit above the deck surface. The ones that slip weren't seated all the way and they slip down to the step and back up to the head. If they were seated properly from the factory they couldn't move down, but once the factory milled the surface and the tops of the liners with it sitting 1/8" or so high it can't be pushed back all the way down to the step. It has to stay flush at the top and that leaves the gap at the bottom, and pinning just keeps it from moving either way up or down.
There are threads on the forum by people who have pinned. It's not the perfect fix, like drowssap says, but still it's a cheap alternative to spending $6K or $8K on a top-hated engine. If I personally had to spend $6K or $8K on my truck to keep it going I would probably have to scrap it.
Last edited by sdhow; 10-03-2014 at 03:59 PM.
#12
10-03-2014, 04:44 PM
Baja
something catastrophic caused your block to fail, is what it comes down too.
in your case you know it lead to the truck overheating.
I wouldn't worry one bit about machining tapper off, once the rings are in nothing will go that high again these are flat top piston.
that's the least of your worries,what cause the liner to move?
that's your problem.
pressure test the block as suggested and if it fails "I" wouldnt spend a dime on it.
pinning the block is a worst case scenario, you know you have a line moving up and down knocking away, so you drill threw the block into the liner and insert a PIN (Allen bolt ) and that keeps the liner from knocking. you still have a failed block.
but it a last ditch effort on a block that would other be useless.
and that assumes that the block will hold pressure.
in your case you know it lead to the truck overheating.
I wouldn't worry one bit about machining tapper off, once the rings are in nothing will go that high again these are flat top piston.
that's the least of your worries,what cause the liner to move?
that's your problem.
pressure test the block as suggested and if it fails "I" wouldnt spend a dime on it.
pinning the block is a worst case scenario, you know you have a line moving up and down knocking away, so you drill threw the block into the liner and insert a PIN (Allen bolt ) and that keeps the liner from knocking. you still have a failed block.
but it a last ditch effort on a block that would other be useless.
and that assumes that the block will hold pressure.
Last edited by drowssap; 10-03-2014 at 04:47 PM.
#13
10-03-2014, 05:11 PM
I've read these threads, but understood them to be for pinning through just the block, not the block AND liner. Given the two dissimilar metals and the brittle nature of the steel sleeve, pinning through both the aluminum block and steel sleeve with a hardened steel screw would be, at best, a short-lived "fix". This would lead to cracks/splitting of the sleeve material (in all EIGHT cylinders) and more issues than just a sleeve slapping against the head causing an annoying "tick".
#14
10-03-2014, 06:21 PM
Recovery Vehicle
I've read these threads, but understood them to be for pinning through just the block, not the block AND liner. Given the two dissimilar metals and the brittle nature of the steel sleeve, pinning through both the aluminum block and steel sleeve with a hardened steel screw would be, at best, a short-lived "fix". This would lead to cracks/splitting of the sleeve material (in all EIGHT cylinders) and more issues than just a sleeve slapping against the head causing an annoying "tick".
As 04duxlr says, there are plenty of people racking up plenty of miles with pinned liners. If it were me pinning wouldn't be my first choice... If I had unlimited funds to spend on my truck I would go with a top hatted block but, most people driving a 11-12 year old truck don't have unlimited funds to spend on them..
It would be pointless to pin just the block. I'm not sure what that even means!
The OP is a different case than you. He already has his engine opened up and one of the liners is above the deck. If all you have is a tick and loosing no coolant into the bores, try a 180 t-stat, may stop your tick if it's a sleeve.
If you don't know if it's a sleeve try the hose down test and find out.
good luck!
Last edited by RicketyTick; 10-04-2014 at 08:23 AM.
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