So close.

They are m8x1.25x20mm. For replacements be sure you get at least 16 bolts, flanged head, grade 10.9 with a larger (13mm vs. 10mm) hex head. I got a bag of 50 on Amazon, yellow zinc coated. The larger, 13mm hex head and grade 10.9 makes them super easy to take off and put on. The project also gives you the excuse to clean the threads of the rusted, welded nuts and coat them with thread locker or anti seize.

The stock crossmember bolts are weak with small heads and it is very easy to strip the heads. They are so weak I have literally chiseled a slot in them to try removing them with a flat screwdriver. That trick worked on a couple of them but on the others, the screwdriver made the slot bigger! Weak. While the bolts don't seem to rust, the threads and plates holding the welded nuts do rust, and if you have never taken yours off, plan extra time and blood pressure medication for whatever project you have in mind. Hopefully, a majority will come off with a six sided 10mm socket. For those that don't, PB Blaster, penetrating oil, a thin screwdriver and hammer, a reciprocating saw and pry bar, a drill and screw extractor set, some sandpaper, primer, chassis paint, and a neck brace will probably be necessary. And blood pressure medication.

I've had to remove the bolts on three Rovers, including my own seemingly rust free one, and I had problems with the bolts on all three. On one parts Rover, which also looked rust free, so many stripped that I just had to cut the cross members. The bolts obviously go in from the bottom and there is nothing to prevent water and grit from settling in the welded nuts, which reside inaccessibly in the welded plates. It is a bad deal.

In fact, they are so bad I wouldn't even attempt removal of the stock ones unless you have extractor sockets. Regular sockets gum the heads up so badly on stuck ones, the extractor sockets and smaller sockets beaten on don't work on stuck ones. There is no room in the recessed spot where the bolts reside to cut the heads off unless you have a very, very small Dremel cutting head. Removing the cut, seized bolts is enough to make you question the meaning of life.

Removing the crossmembers comes in handy when you want to change out your y pipe or transmission. But I just hate rust so those bolts had to go.

 

Man, I was close!

Yea, I did try to remove them some time ago. If I remember correctly all but one started to come and only the last one stripped the head. Same deal on my parts truck actually, surprisingly enough.

I'll definitely pick some of those up before I do that work. Thanks, Charlie!

 

Unless I overlooked it, I didn't see a link for the inline thermostat. If I missed it, will you tell me that I'm dumb? And if there isn't one, would you be so kind as to paste a few links on that topic to this thread? It could be a biggie and quick access highly necessary. Thanks man, keep doing work!

 

Completely forgot about it! Added.

 

I'm definitely interested in the Pontiac blower.

 

I forgot to get my pictures. It is a 99 Pontiac grand prix blower (all of the auto parts places have them). You just remove the squirrel cage, put the rover cage on the Pontiac blower, and screw it back on. There are some little plastic doo dads from Lowes and longer screws... maybe 2 bucks for all. I have pictures of the packets. I'll find and post.

 

Doing a little research, evidentally blowers from all of the following models are the same.

CAVALIER 95-02
CUTLASS 89-96
CUTLASS 97 Supreme
GRAND PRIX 88-96
CUTLASS 88 FWD
FIREBIRD 93-02
SUNFIRE 95-02
REGAL 88-96
CAMARO 93-02
LUMINA CAR 90-01
MONTE CARLO 95-99

 

Add this to the list!

 

Very interesting, and not too difficult looking. Might give 'er a stab eventually.

 

Found some better pictures on eBay. They have some really green carpet and alot of remote controls (see picture of naked box). Maybe they would swap one for a universal remote.

I wish the shipping wasn't so offensive. I'll wait until the Pound reaches parity with the Dollar, I guess.... or later.