Good on you for doing this job! Richard may be right to leave it alone at this time. I’d probably try to guess at how much turn is left to get the second 90*. It ends up way higher than 100 ft.lb. I use a 3 foot bar to turn the last amount. For reference, and if you ever do this again, it’s a good idea to mark your bolts after the initial 15 ft.lb. I use a felt marker at 12 o’clock. A dab of white out would be easier to see.

 

Thanks, @Richard Gallant and @Harvlr .... Still have another 90 turn left on one side... Not sure if it's worth taking the other side up past 100 ft lb? Or leaving at 100 ft lb on both side?

I should have bought the ARP studs. If I'd known they existed, I would have. I think I may have explored it and ran into some international shipping issues but don't fully remember.

 

Hey PNW, I'm also in the PNW, Tacoma area to be specific. If you need a hand feel free to reach out, I have a considerable amount of quality tools and knowledge with the D2's. I'd be more than happy to lend a hand to make sure your D2 gets back on the road in top shape.

 

I always mark both my head bolts and sockets with paint to keep track and observe during tightening. I would remove the head from the side with 100 ft lbs and redo it with a new gasket. Our headbolts are not torque to yield, they are standard bolts and LR recommends torque to angle as a way to control the gasket compression precisely. The first 15 ft lbs is to snug the bolts i.e. remove all slack. The 180 in two steps after that is to give a specific amount of gasket compression. I use the factory bolts and specs for that reason and not the ARP studs for reasons explained in one of my other post.

 

If your back is against the wall, as in money or time is short, then finish the job the same way it's been started, and hope for the best.

If time/money are a little less of a factor, remove and chuck the head gaskets and head bolts, get new Elring head gaskets and the ARP stud kit from here: https://lucky8llc.com/collections/di...-arp-head-bolt. This option will give you the best chance of success...although LR stuff can still be a bit quirky. I assume you've gotten a better torque wrench already? The head studs are much easier to install, especially for a novice mechanic. No more mansplaining needed...

I'm sorry you're having to deal with mansplaining, and all the rest of it. You are on a steeeep learning curve with a quirky vehicle. I would say you ought to be proud of yourself though, you're figuring stuff out quick, and asking really good questions.