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Old Mar 29, 2013 | 01:21 PM
  #11  
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From: mini soda
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BTW, this Irontite stuff sounds kinda promising for a small block crack.

There arent a whole lot of reviews, but none of them are negative. There are a few posts of experience on some of the international range rover forums saying it worked great. Just a pain in the *** cause you gotta do multiple flushes of the cooling system.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2013 | 02:08 PM
  #12  
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see https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...-inside-57982/

Compared to that, you can do a lot of flushes. Distilled water is cheap. 180F thermostat upgrade. Oops.
 

Last edited by Savannah Buzz; Mar 29, 2013 at 02:32 PM.
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Old Mar 29, 2013 | 02:20 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by Savannah Buzz
see https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...-inside-57982/

Compared to that, you can do a lot of flushes. Distilled water is cheap. And I noticed that Advance Auto now has alternate thermostats for the D1 rated at 170F, so that may be another option, but maybe just for summer in the land of the Golden Gophers.
Wow, I dont think Ill be doing that quite yet!

R.e. thermostat...this is on a D2. The 180 on the D1 seems to work pretty good though.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2013 | 04:39 PM
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pm sent
 
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Old Mar 29, 2013 | 06:37 PM
  #15  
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Alright, ordered the Victor Reinz gasket set from amazon.

Im gonna run the Irontite flush/seal procedure and see what happens.

Using arp studs so, if it doesnt work, at least I can reuse em for a future job.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2013 | 07:30 PM
  #16  
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Little update if anyone cares...

Put in the new Reinz gaskets, new spark plugs, and put in a salvage yard thermostat with the "open mod" described here.

Misfires are gone, no CEL and coolant temp is about 140* after 30 min of idling/light neighborhood driving. Coolant level did not drop that I could see.

I assume this means I have a pretty small crack.

Once the water pipes thaw out around here Im gonna throw the 190 thermostat back in and do the Irontite procedure.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2013 | 09:47 PM
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You have basically removed the thermostat. My D1 would run 140-150 with no stat in the summer time. Will hurt MPG (ECU thinks engine is cold and needs to get more gas to warm up).. Oil lubes better at 180F, so some extra wear (don't leave this way forever). You can buy a 180F soft spring stat for the D2.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2013 | 09:57 PM
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Fingers crossed it works out for you. I was in your same situation and went for the top-hat/flanged liners.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2013 | 10:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Savannah Buzz
You have basically removed the thermostat. My D1 would run 140-150 with no stat in the summer time. Will hurt MPG (ECU thinks engine is cold and needs to get more gas to warm up).. Oil lubes better at 180F, so some extra wear (don't leave this way forever). You can buy a 180F soft spring stat for the D2.
Yup, I read about all the cons on the how-to thread. I was just doing this as a test to see how bad of a crack I was dealing with. So far so good I guess?

I opened a boneyard thermo because the Irontite instructions say to use a working thermostat; I assume so the engine can get to crack-steaming temp.

Also, it still has a non-zerk front drive shaft. So yeah, not gonna be driving it much at all right now. Basically just to drive to my sister-in-law's house where the hose is (Im in a townhouse with no hoses ). Then re-install the 190 thermostat to do the flush and seal.

If all goes well, Ill put a 180 in.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2013 | 10:37 PM
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Originally Posted by jthomas
Fingers crossed it works out for you. I was in your same situation and went for the top-hat/flanged liners.
Thanks man!

You had a really cool thread.

I dont have the space to do it now, but I would love to do a teardown like that sometime.

Just saw the update...nice.
 

Last edited by pinkytoe69; Apr 20, 2013 at 10:42 PM.
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