Sounds like you are good to go. I'll be stuck in traffic tomorrow afternoon as 100,000 crowd makes their way down Hilton Head Island to the tournament devoted to chasing a little white ball.

 

Don't be so sure you'd love to do it - I'm over 9 grand into it now (includes purchase, tax, tag, title, ALL parts, new touchscreen stereo, all fluids, new Akebono brake pads, interior parts, accessories, practically ended up touching all parts of the truck). That is LR3-with-same-mileage-as-my-D2 territory. I wasn't planning on selling it in S. America, but now I am considering doing just that and using the profit to buy a LR3 to take down there.

 

I would love to be chasing little white ball this weekend...

So. Sick. Of. Snow.

 

Low 80's here last week. Top down on the 93 Merc cabrio.

 

Haha, naw just the engine part hopefully.

Maybe someday do a mildly supercharged top hat block

 

You sound like my dad, who's been over in the 50th state since he grew tired of these damn winters as a young man.

I have a special finger on each hand for you two

 

Update

Did the Irontite procedure yesterday. Made it about half of the 5 mile drive home when the temp went up to 242. I pulled off and shut it down. Waited for it to cool and sadly limped the rest of the way home.

I thought the thermostat might be bunk, but it turned out there was an air pocket cause I didnt do the fill procedure right. I filled up the coolant bottle all the way and started it up again. This time all was good. At about night time air temps it idled, with occasional periods of throttle, at about 206-210 for 30 min.

Today I had it running for about 1 hour idling and driving to a car wash. It cooled for about 3 hours, then went to a target about 5 miles away. Temps were about 215-217 idling and neighborhood driving, 210-212 highway or with heater on, and occasional 221 spike under uphill load. Not fantastic, but not bad. Given the Dexcool sludge in the bleeder T -pipe, I think the temps are due to needing a new radiator.

Ive just blown out the block with a leaf blower (I read the block drain horror stories) and am now leaving the system to dry per the Irontite instructions. There was no pressure in the coolant bottle. The results are promising enough that Im gonna drop the cash for a radiator and genuine 180 stat and see what happens.

 

You can tell what is going on in the radiator with a test from top to bottom for temperature. More than 10F spread would indicate that lower rows are closed off (low or no flow). The 180F stat will help. Radiator, if needed. With all this heat your electric fan should have also come on, if not check for fuse, relay, siezed electric fan motor.

 

I dont have an IR thermometer, but the lower hose was a bit cooler than the top. I could wrap my hand around it and hold it there comfortably, which could not be done on the top hoses.

Is there any other cause of steady "high end of OK" temps that would trump a 140k mile, likely dexcool polluted radiator?