Next thing to deal with. Steering play, I can turn the wheel and inch or so back and forth before any effect. So with this I could adjust the steering box by loosing the nut on top of it and turning the Allen screw in a little and test if I read this right?
Now should I do this with the front end off the ground or on the ground?
last time I had it off the ground all of the tie rod ends where tight and seemed pretty good.
however going down the the road you hit some really good bumps you can feel it in the steering pretty good. And also getting caught in the road ruts on the highway you can be jerked to one side pretty good if you hit one just right .
So I am thinking a new damper ?

thanks

 

HI compared to what mine was like that was tight, I had over 2 inch I did not so much drive as guide it down the road.., but it failed its test on the tie bare track rod end, so I replaced it easy job and I found I had lost a lot of play in the steering wheel, so I went on and replaced the drag link too. and on checking were the steering column, is connected to the steering box was also lose once tightened up I now have minimum play on the steering wheel and needed to learn how to drive it again, the damper does not steer the car it just stops shock loading coming up from the road to your steering wheel , I took mine off check it for full travel with no sudden movement and put it back on as it was OK.., don't for get to have you tracking checked after its all done

 

I know you said the tie rod ends seemed good, but I recommend double checking the track rod and drag link. My truck had the same symptoms you report, and I found the joints in the original track rod and drag link were sloppy loose.

 

Ok thanks that is what I am thinking is just replacing them as I want to put a 2 inch lift in it anyway

 

I'm dealing with the same thing. Tightening the box seemed to help a bit - but not sure I did it right. I put the axle on stands so I didn't have to have the truck running to turn the wheel (my theory is this would also put less stress on the box in case I overtightened). I was able to tighten the screw quite a bit without any apparent binding... I'd say I tightened it 3/4" turn (which seems like too much from my research). And there's still at least ~10 degrees of play if I grab the rubber coupler on the lower column and twist (have the key in so the column doesn't lock). My box is almost brand new too, so not sure about that...

Replacing the damper will only mask the problem... that said I have an OME stabilizer on order to replace the terrafirma

I noticed some play in the lower column rubber coupler (u-joints seemed fine), so I plan to replace that as well

With truck on ground and running, have a friend bounce the steering wheel 10 degrees back and forth while you look for any movement in the panhard bushings, radius arms, tie rods, ball joints, etc. I noticed some play in the panhard bushing so I'm replacing those.

Other ideas are tire balancing, tire out of round (need shaving?), alignment, axle is centered (especially after lift - put in an adjustable panhard), warped rotors,

 

I too have a substantial amount of play in the system before it ever even moves the pitman arm. I'll try to hunt down where it's coming from, it seems to be between the column and that pitman arm though.

 

When I got my Disco II last year, there was about 4" of play. That was all (almost all) due to really worn steering shaft rod ends. I replaced those last summer. I still have a little play, about 1½" that I think is in the steering box itself.

I also have a worn bushing in one of my rear track rods, as mentioned in another thread that results in a shifting "straight ahead" position for the steering wheel, so I'm building up the gumption to replace all the bushing in the front and rear suspensions. I did that on an MG Midget decades ago, and even those little bushings were a PITA. Bigger versions in a Rover may test my patience and skills. At least I have all the right tools to do it now, unlike back in the Eighties with the Midget.

Scott