Hello folks,

I am itching like a hound dog to install some new steering components, sway bay disconnects, and corrected front radius arms. The install looks pretty straight forward in terms of individual components but I was wondering if there is a specific order I should be installing these to prevent movement of the suspension and steering.

These are the components that I have.

Terrafirma track rod and drag link complete assembly
Terrafirma Panhard rod assembly
Steering Damper by OME
Terrafirma Caster correct front radius arms
Polyurethane Bushing Kit By Polybush, Front And Rear Suspension
Lucky 8 Sway bar disconnects for rear and front

What order would you do this to minimize it being a huge PITA to readjust? Does it matter? I know I have to take it to the alignment shop after it is all said and done to ensure everything is balanced i.e toe caster and camber as well as a center axle alignment. After thinking about it for a while I imagine if I take everything off the suspension, axle, and steering will all shift accordingly, and that putting it back would require a lot of muscle and effort. Does anyone have experience with undoing all of it at once? Or am I totally a noob and off base in my thinking?

I really like to replace bolts and nuts when I can, meaning if anyone knows the exact size of all the nuts and bolts required that would be incredible. As well, do you guys have a parts list or parts guide that you use for stuff like that or is it totally tribal knowledge at this point?

 

Don't worry about caster and camber. You're taking care of the castor with the new radius arms, and the camber doesn't adjust since its a live axle. Personally I think an alignment shop is overkill for this type of truck. Get a couple of straight edges (or even 2X4s) against the outside of the tires and adjust the tie rod to 1/8" toe out. Done. I replaced the track bar, drag link, and tie rod several years ago and have been fine since. Tracks nice and straight on the highway and tire wear looks good.

I don't think the order for your list is important, but I would definitely pull/replace only one item at a time.

 

When you do a front end alignment on a machine, the Toe is usually set slightly in, not out.
As the forward motion of the vehicle actually toe's it out a little bit.

 

Yeah, I follow that. But since the front axle is actually pulling, wouldn't it pull it in a bit?

In the past we would always set the toe out for solid axle 4WD trucks, seemed to work well. But I have heard the opposite also, as you mention. In this case, I was going with the rave spec. Granted, I don't know if 10' equals 1/8" with this setup.




I'd like to hear what others are doing. Or maybe I'll switch it this weekend and see how it feels.

 

[QUOTE=Red5;729624]Yeah, I follow that. But since the front axle is actually pulling, wouldn't it pull it in a bit?

In the past we would always set the toe out for solid axle 4WD trucks, seemed to work well. But I have heard the opposite also, as you mention. In this case, I was going with the rave spec. Granted, I don't know if 10' equals 1/8" with this setup.




I'd like to hear what others are doing. Or maybe I'll switch it this weekend and see how

Even though they are pulling, they still have the force of forward motion against them, but I can't say for sure.
It has been many years since I've done an aligment.
I did several solid front axle trucks, but come to think of it, never a solid front axle AWD.
You raise a good point.
Hopefully someone has a definative answer.

 

I just recently replaced all of mine with the Terra firma replacements. If you haven’t already I would watch the Atlantic British videos. For me it was very helpful to see how it’s done before I started. One thing I would recommend is use pb blaster penetrating oil a few days before you start, maybe a couple of times. Mine came right off. Also tapping on the tapered ends instead of having to use the tool to get them separated actually worked. Good luck.

 

Hi I have just finished replacing my Drag link and Track rod, so the basic set up is straight forward, put your steering wheel in the straight ahead position, now check the steering box is central as shown on page 57-18 of the Rave manual,




once your happy that it central working on the opposite side of the car from the steering collum, take a string line from the back of the car, I looped it over my tow ball bring the line across the middle of the rear tyre, and horizontally to the front and across the front tyre, now pull it tight and touch the front on the tyre, and check were the string touches, if it touches the back of the front tyre first you are towed in, if it touches the front of the tyre your toe out, so now looson off the drag link clamps and adjust the drag link so the line touches the front first with a 1-2 mm gap at the back of the tyre, you do need to roll the car after every adjustment to let the tyre adjust to the new position, once you happy lock up the drag link, now move to the otherside of the car a repeat this on the tie bar, if the string touches bothe the front and rear with out bending round the rear of the tyre your wheels a parallel wich is fine
not difficult just time consuming

 

Hello everyone,

So here is what I have managed to replace and install

- Replaced the factory drag link with the HD TF.
- Replaced the factory track rod with the HD TF.
- Replaced the factory radius arms with corrected angle HD TF with Polybush bushes.

And this is where I am at currently at with the Landy, my bethrothed and I purchased the TF adjustable panhard with hopes to install the rod but after we did our due dilligence we both got to thinking that because our truck was purchased lifted with ~ 2 - 3 inches we assumed that the factory track rod and drag link were adjusted to accomodate the non adjustable panhard rod. During the install of the radius arms we began to notice the live axle obviously has some play. Our thought was that due to the increased ride height and non adjustable panhard rod and incorrected radius arms we will have to readjust the drag link and the track rod accordingly? My plan today was to take some measurements to verify on the ground lift height, plumb bob from the frame to the ground and measure the distance to the inside wheel tire, and adjust the panhard accordinly. The purpose of these tasks was to ensure that the alignment shop gets the most centered true tracking vehicle prior to alignment. I know some people say it can be done at home, but we are novice DIY mechanics and we would gladly spend the 80 - 130 bucks to get it done to verify safety and wear on the vehicle.

I will report measurements, but it would be super helpfup if anyone has any information on the following stuff to verify that I am not a bozo:
- How do I verify actual lift height? People have measured from two points from the outside wheel to the top of the wheel well.
- How do I verify the center of the axle? People have mentioned to use either a straight edge from the outside of the wheel to the top or using a plumbob to measure attached to the frame to the inside of the inside edge of the wheel and adjust accordingly? I have read that there is concern with installed non factor front drive shafts in regards to the yolk size rubbing on the catalytic converter. As well I want to understand the movement involved with vehicle suspension regarding half travel, full travel, and full droop to ensure proper panhard length. The AB guide says to match up factory panhard rod length to the adjustable one and set it to that before you take it to the alignment shop.
- When the vehicle is on the ground and the panhard regardless of length is set up where are we sitting in terms of the angle of the panhard. I ask this because I have been jacking up the vehicle by the diff and putting the jack stands under each side of the axle as marked in the workshop manual. Should I be supporting the vehicle by the chassis frame when doing this work to ensure the axle has full play? This could have been our downfall when we were changing the radius arms as it required some panic moments after I realized we were fighting the panhard after removal of the radius arm chasis bolts. There were many cuss words and panic as I watched my shock dampers rub against the shock towers (They are rubber).
- Do you guy's have wife's and or partners that have learn about Land Rover's because of all of this? I couldn't do all of this alone and thank goodness my fiance, lets just call her my partner, was present. I don't know a single woman now in my life that has rolled up her sleeves did the work and can now discuss Land Rover front end suspension geometry like one of the guys to talk **** to my Jeep and Toyota people.

Also here is the bit of shame part yall can make fun of me for... She has made fun of me, and my friends have made fun of me so I might as well own up to it. So i purchased the TF adjustable panhard rod and a full set of Polybush poly bushings from AB. In my infinite wisdom I was tenacious in having replacement in kind bushings for all of my parts. So naturally I removed the stock TF bushings, the red ones, and pressed in the Polybush panhard bushings. I should have known that something was wrong because those orange polybushings were screaming once they were in. After spending an entire day alone trying to get the panhard to squeeze into the pocket I gave up. The next day after hours of lubing, squeezing, and struggling with my lady the panhard on the axle side was about 1/4 of the inch left to go ripped. So after many blessings and beers with my old lady she gave us the blessing to just order a new panhard rod with bushings in them as it was be the shortest ammount of time to get the job done. So now I have two adjustable panhard rods. One that will be installled with the stock TF bushings, and one with the ripped bushings in it. Has anyone replaced the TF red bushings with poly bushings? Ye be warned... It sucks. I called AB and they verifying fitment, but I am starting to think the metal retaining ring within the panhard needs to be removed prior to installation of the polybushings...

Thanks!

Gordon