When our engines get stuck valves and we have to send them off to the machine shop, do they clean and recondition the stuckvalves and reuse them? What is the common practice on that? I am trying to price what I may need when I pull my heads for a head gasket job and head work for stuck exh valves.

 

Depends, Rover had a real problem with the valve guides and carbon build up on the D1's. Sometimes you could go to new guides and seal,. sometimes the valveve would bend and where junk.

 

They switched to the carbon cutter valves in '96. Supposed to prevent the carbon build up and sticky valves.
I dont think the valves are that much, so you might just want to replace them and be dont with it.

 

New valves and new valve guides when you have the
heads redone.
As I remember you just got your Disco,,the last person
was running low octane fuel.

 

I wonder how much the "updated" exh valves are? I managed to find guides for about seven dollars a piece but the valves I find do not state whether they are the carbon cutter variety or not. So far the exh valve prices range from 14 dollars to 37 dollars a piece. I also found springs for 2.95 a piece! I planned on replacing them too, but what are some opinions on replacing springs without replacing the cam and lifters? will a new valve spring accellerate lifter and cam wear, because I am assuming the wear patterns on the lifter and cam lobes are due to the stock springs tension. will increased tension from a new spring wear it out quickly? Im probably overthinking it...

Thanks!

 

Jerrod,
What leads you to believe you have valves sticking?? Have you tried an ATF flush along with a induction cleaning to help remove possible build up? Have you done a compression test and possibily a leak down, if not do this first or you could be waisting your time and money.

 

I have done the ATF flush for 20 mins, came out clean. So far I have cleaned out the gunk and crap out of both rocker shafts and replaced one rocker on #7 intakebecause the pushrod cup was beat up pretty bad, if I remember correctly about three rockers on each side had plugged up oil holes, well my mysterious tapping noise is gone I thought it was a lifter but it was that beat up rocker getting beat up with the pushrod.I have not done an induction cleaning Mike, I will do a search for it here because I AM interested in doing so. Was that with the Seafoam product? Well, I DO need a head gasket so I was going to have the heads sent off to get freshened up anyway because of the mileage and condition of the inside of the engine, horrible mess under the valve covers, someone did not take care of this one very well. I have not done a compression/leak downtest either, I guess I should do that as well. Sometimes I cant get the truck to even get up to 60mph because it hesitates, then sometimes at 65 to 70 it will give a hard miss then start acting up with the hesitation. I have done so much to this truck to find out the issue, but apparently I missed a few vital steps! lol Thanks Mike

 

When I took my heads to the machine shop after I blew them I think they gave me a price of $100 or so to machine the heads. This included seating the valves, new guides, seals etc. They also found a bent exhaust valve (gave it to me afterwards and it was sure bent). That valve alone was available from LR dealer only and was just over $100. If your gonna go to the trouble of pulling the heads take them to a good machine shop and let them worry about machining them. It's a cheap investment.

 

Wow, that price isnt too bad. I figured the same, if I was going to go through pulling them off for the head gasket then might as well get them freshened up.

 

Jerrod,
Before you do anything, I would suggest you clean all the crap out of your engine, pull the pan , inspect and clean.
If you don't, and you engine is as dirty as you describe, you will have nothing but more problem.