Still squeaking (video)
#12
I'm really sorry I even mentioned it. I have crawled in every nook and cranny of a Land Rover Discovery II many times but I am not a mechanic, or more correctly: I am a terrible hobbyist mechanic and you can verify that in the forums because I always report my mess ups. I could be wrong. Having said that, if you are sure it is from the back and it gets louder at times when the flex plate would be flexing, then that is probably the issue.
It did occur to me that your u joints in the front driveshaft could have a problem but if the squeak is present when the truck is stationary, that's not it. If there is truly no squeak when it is stationary then I have another test for you but I need to know what year your rover is (whether it has a locking CDL, whether you have the linkage or not). If there is only squeak when you are moving and you can lock your CDL either manually or with the shift lever, then you could take 8 nuts off, remove the front driveshaft, and drive it around the block on the back driveshaft only. If the squeak disappeared, you would just need to get the front driveshaft rebuilt and slap it back in (or get a new one), which is a lot cheaper and easier than replacing a flex plate. You would be ten kinds of pissed at me if you spent to get the flex plate replaced and there was nothing wrong with it.
Last edited by Charlie_V; 11-10-2016 at 11:31 PM.
#13
First off...Removing the oil pan will not allow you to see any protion of the flexplate. The flexplate is located between the flywheel and torque converter and without being disassembled can only be seen through the small round plate located at the bottom of the bellhousing.
If you want to check the flex plate, remove the round cover on bell housing (three small bolts), turn engine by front crankshaft bolt until you can see one of the torque converter bolts directly at the bottom of rotation. Then have someone hold the crank bolt, while you use a prybar through the opening to pry the torque converter from side to side (rotation direction), and see if there is any movement and listen for any type of clicking/cracking noise. There should be none, movement or noise.
Before doing this method, you could slide underneath with a piece of hose and listen to the area while running in neutral, then running in gear, and the have someone move it from neutral to drive, seeing if the noise changes and is coming from that specific area. Just be sure that the person sitting inside holding the brakes or applying the parking brake likes you...and definitely don't use the wife...this is an insurance policy claim in the making...lol. No, seriously, just chaulk/block the wheels, apply parking brake (assuming its in working order) and have someone keep their foot firmly applied to the brake pedal. Or do the job with the vehicle on jack stands, just stay away from any moving parts. The noise "should" change with the added resistance of being put in gear.
Good luck,
Brian.
If you want to check the flex plate, remove the round cover on bell housing (three small bolts), turn engine by front crankshaft bolt until you can see one of the torque converter bolts directly at the bottom of rotation. Then have someone hold the crank bolt, while you use a prybar through the opening to pry the torque converter from side to side (rotation direction), and see if there is any movement and listen for any type of clicking/cracking noise. There should be none, movement or noise.
Before doing this method, you could slide underneath with a piece of hose and listen to the area while running in neutral, then running in gear, and the have someone move it from neutral to drive, seeing if the noise changes and is coming from that specific area. Just be sure that the person sitting inside holding the brakes or applying the parking brake likes you...and definitely don't use the wife...this is an insurance policy claim in the making...lol. No, seriously, just chaulk/block the wheels, apply parking brake (assuming its in working order) and have someone keep their foot firmly applied to the brake pedal. Or do the job with the vehicle on jack stands, just stay away from any moving parts. The noise "should" change with the added resistance of being put in gear.
Good luck,
Brian.
#14
Brian is right. I was misremembering. I have unbolted the flex plate from the oil pan area rather than the access hole on the passenger side because my bad shoulder gets me more leverage in the former location. But when I did that, I was staring at the back of the flywheel. My apologies. I work on other hobby vehicles and I forgot that the Rover flywheel is a solid disk rather than spoked.
if memory serves, Brian has been a mechanic since I was 10 years old--and I turn 50 next year-- so I hope he will continue to contribute to this thread and also look back at my posts pointing to the flex plate as the possible source of squeaking; I was reluctant to suggest it and hope to be wrong.
if memory serves, Brian has been a mechanic since I was 10 years old--and I turn 50 next year-- so I hope he will continue to contribute to this thread and also look back at my posts pointing to the flex plate as the possible source of squeaking; I was reluctant to suggest it and hope to be wrong.
Last edited by Charlie_V; 11-12-2016 at 08:37 AM.
#15
No harm, no foul, Charlie. Just pictured the "milkman" taking off the oil pan...and find the flywheel...instead on the flexplate. Not an easy task, for sure. It wasn't my intention to come across harshly, my opologies if it did...darn internet is a tough gig sometimes.
Noises and vibrations are two of the most difficult problem areas to nail down. Especially, on a aluminum block motors; noise really transmits easily through aluminum.
Nothing wrong with pointing the "milkman" in this direction, could very well be the problem. If I was him, I'd drop the belt off (even though parts aren't that old) and give it a good listen. You have to totally eliminate as many possiblities as possible, these darn things can turn into a money vacuum quickly.
Brian.
Noises and vibrations are two of the most difficult problem areas to nail down. Especially, on a aluminum block motors; noise really transmits easily through aluminum.
Nothing wrong with pointing the "milkman" in this direction, could very well be the problem. If I was him, I'd drop the belt off (even though parts aren't that old) and give it a good listen. You have to totally eliminate as many possiblities as possible, these darn things can turn into a money vacuum quickly.
Brian.
#16
No harm, no foul, Charlie. Just pictured the "milkman" taking off the oil pan...and find the flywheel...instead on the flexplate. Not an easy task, for sure. It wasn't my intention to come across harshly, my opologies if it did...darn internet is a tough gig sometimes.
Noises and vibrations are two of the most difficult problem areas to nail down. Especially, on a aluminum block motors; noise really transmits easily through aluminum.
Nothing wrong with pointing the "milkman" in this direction, could very well be the problem. If I was him, I'd drop the belt off (even though parts aren't that old) and give it a good listen. You have to totally eliminate as many possiblities as possible, these darn things can turn into a money vacuum quickly.
Brian.
Noises and vibrations are two of the most difficult problem areas to nail down. Especially, on a aluminum block motors; noise really transmits easily through aluminum.
Nothing wrong with pointing the "milkman" in this direction, could very well be the problem. If I was him, I'd drop the belt off (even though parts aren't that old) and give it a good listen. You have to totally eliminate as many possiblities as possible, these darn things can turn into a money vacuum quickly.
Brian.
I second dropping the belt. I did that once trying to find a squeak and my crank pulley was pushing out its damper and wobbling about a quarter of an inch! The main pulley was making the squeak! Aside: crank pulleys are expensive. Luckily I had a spare from a parts rover.
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