Strange Noise from Engine/ Belt?
#11
Ok, so the wounded Seal sound stopped, BUT..................
We were driving around town tonight, and there it goes-- FLOP FLOP FLOP-etc
So a man pulls up next to us, and tells us we are leaking "water" from underneath. I know it is coming from the motor compartment. Begin to smell radiator fluid, the temp gauge spikes and the battery light comes on.
Lose power steering, but manage to make it home. Car begins to bellow white smoke, and open the engine compartment and it is sprayed with coolant. Hissing burning sounds and smells.
Noticed the belt is off, hanging loosely. I can replace that, but why in the world would coolant be everywhere? Do I need a water pump? PLEASE HELP! I AM ABOUT TO JUNK THIS DARN TRUCK!
THANK YOU!!!!
We were driving around town tonight, and there it goes-- FLOP FLOP FLOP-etc
So a man pulls up next to us, and tells us we are leaking "water" from underneath. I know it is coming from the motor compartment. Begin to smell radiator fluid, the temp gauge spikes and the battery light comes on.
Lose power steering, but manage to make it home. Car begins to bellow white smoke, and open the engine compartment and it is sprayed with coolant. Hissing burning sounds and smells.
Noticed the belt is off, hanging loosely. I can replace that, but why in the world would coolant be everywhere? Do I need a water pump? PLEASE HELP! I AM ABOUT TO JUNK THIS DARN TRUCK!
THANK YOU!!!!
#12
With belt off, no water pump turning. Extreme engine overheat. Boiling coolant vents from coolant jug and perhaps pops off some hoses.
Cut belt away, you don't want to re-use it. Turn each item, other than that large pulley at the bottom on the crankshaft. Check for rough feeling.
Something locked up, engine power forced the belt off.
Get new belt, refill with antifreeze (50/50 premix, assumes you had green, if not flush what is there and go green). Purge air at T fitting.
If you can put hands on one use an OBDII scanner that can show live data (coolant temp). When you start it back up you are looking for temps not to climb past 212. No point going to 227, 235, etc. Don't want any gurgle sounds under the dash.
With an aluminum engine it was not the best choice to continue driving when temp spiked. That extra time may blown head gasket (white smoke out exhaust is coolant being flashed to steam).
If you have not damaged engine you are looking at repairs DIY in the 500 - 800 range. $2500 shop, $4500+ at dealer. That's for a head gasket . CRacked block and slipped sleeve possible.
But enough of this despair, let's move on to repair. After it has cooled down.
Cut belt away, you don't want to re-use it. Turn each item, other than that large pulley at the bottom on the crankshaft. Check for rough feeling.
Something locked up, engine power forced the belt off.
Get new belt, refill with antifreeze (50/50 premix, assumes you had green, if not flush what is there and go green). Purge air at T fitting.
If you can put hands on one use an OBDII scanner that can show live data (coolant temp). When you start it back up you are looking for temps not to climb past 212. No point going to 227, 235, etc. Don't want any gurgle sounds under the dash.
With an aluminum engine it was not the best choice to continue driving when temp spiked. That extra time may blown head gasket (white smoke out exhaust is coolant being flashed to steam).
If you have not damaged engine you are looking at repairs DIY in the 500 - 800 range. $2500 shop, $4500+ at dealer. That's for a head gasket . CRacked block and slipped sleeve possible.
But enough of this despair, let's move on to repair. After it has cooled down.
#13
I did not see any white smoke out of the exhaust. So I may have dodged a bullet there. I will take off the belt and turn things other than the crankshaft, ie. what you mentioned.
So how will I know if I have blown a head gasket? Once I fill the reservoir and put on the new belt, then what should I do? Just want to follow procedure and not risk anything further.
Thanks for all the assistance and tips. I really love this truck, but she is fighting me all the way....
Kevin
So how will I know if I have blown a head gasket? Once I fill the reservoir and put on the new belt, then what should I do? Just want to follow procedure and not risk anything further.
Thanks for all the assistance and tips. I really love this truck, but she is fighting me all the way....
Kevin
#15
#16
#17
Ok, so I pulled the belt off, and low and behold, the water pump that holds the fan on was wobbly.To clarify, the fan that has a post that attaches to the water pump was wobbly. The assembly. The pulley, etc.
So, I believe the water pump failed, and thus created the belt slippage, and then led to the over heating. I am praying that I did not hurt the head or head gasket.
So, I think I will replace the Water pump, belt, and then re fill the coolant with proper levels and start. I will then check for the said items for a blown gasket.
Any other recommendations? Is this the right process or procedure? Anything else to check?
Feeling pretty crappy about the Land Rover Ownership Experience.
Thank you all for your help too. It means a lot to have such willing, knowledgeable people want to help me.
Kevin
So, I believe the water pump failed, and thus created the belt slippage, and then led to the over heating. I am praying that I did not hurt the head or head gasket.
So, I think I will replace the Water pump, belt, and then re fill the coolant with proper levels and start. I will then check for the said items for a blown gasket.
Any other recommendations? Is this the right process or procedure? Anything else to check?
Feeling pretty crappy about the Land Rover Ownership Experience.
Thank you all for your help too. It means a lot to have such willing, knowledgeable people want to help me.
Kevin
#18
Do yourself a favor and replace the viscous fan clutch at same time. It was dancing with the pump for the last 50 millon spins around the dance floor. They were in love. They knew every wart and wrinkle on each other. A new one will be noticed by the old one and micro vibrations will cause disaster in a short time.
New fan clutch can be used from 2000 Chevy Express 4.3 liter with out AC. Fits water pump, may have to drill out holes in fan slightly, uses larger bolts.
The water pump when removed may well show signs of eating metal, when it was wobbling. Careful about pieces of fan shround that may have been peeled off, they can become daggers into the radiator.
New fan clutch can be used from 2000 Chevy Express 4.3 liter with out AC. Fits water pump, may have to drill out holes in fan slightly, uses larger bolts.
The water pump when removed may well show signs of eating metal, when it was wobbling. Careful about pieces of fan shround that may have been peeled off, they can become daggers into the radiator.
#19
#20
Got the clutch and the WP on order. Nobody around here carries those. Strange since it is a common item. I also checked the oil, just to see if it was milky at all, and it was still like honey. I changed it maybe a week prior to this happening, so I am still PRAYING LIKE CRAZY that everything is ok. I will update once I have the new items, and get some help installing them, er, at least the suggestions! LOL! Thank you all again!
Kevin
Kevin