FYI the purge valve failing would only give you a CEL, not any indication that something was wrong. Mine failed, it was a cheap($43 with the Hyundai part), and quick(15 minutes to replace) fix.

 

I'm not sure if this is good news or bad news.

I pulled the air intake to the manifold, and squirted a little tiny, tiny bit of of Quick Start in while turning it over and it fired right up. I did it a second time and it fired up.

I did not want to squirt more than the smallest amounts in there to avoid any damage that it might cause.

MotoMaster Quick Start, 311g | Canadian Tire

The product is essentially ether, as far as I can tell.

So I think I have a fuel problem.

Let me review out loud.

I had no spark. The truck sat for a week in -15 to -30c (5 to -22 F) temperatures. Changed the CPK and got spark. Engine will not fire. I squirted quick start in to the manifold and the engine starts.

I know the fuel relay opens up. And some clicking happens by the passenger side in the engine compartment. I have not turned the key and had ears in the back by the fuel pump, so I don't know if I can hear that or not. There is a big truck idling nearby right now so I can't check. When I was cranking it without spark (pre new CKP sensor) I would smell gas. I have pulled the fuel pump fuse and cranked it a bit to clear the gas that is in there. Reinserted the fuel pump fuse and tried cranking again with no results.

The gas tank is just under half full, and I used a small bottle of Gas Line Antifreeze that contains ethanol and isopropyl (good for 80 litres or (21 US gal)). That was the very first thing I did last week. I think I want to use methyl hydrate instead of isopropyl. The gas that is in the tank is camp gas. Camps are notorious for having poor gas and dirty tanks. It is also a claimed 87 octane fuel.

What is my next step?

Methyl hydrate and filling the gas tank.
Get it in somewhere warm (not going to happen)
Bypass the inertial sensor, make sure it's plugged in properly.
Test for fuel at the engine compartment level (still trying to find out how).
Open the fuel pump hatch and see if it's running.
Replacing the fuel pump. There is no external fuel filter, right? I don't see one anywhere on the truck or in the shop manual.

Please speak up if you have any thoughts. Any at all….

 

As I said before -
Pull the Fuel relay.
Jump the outputs to cause the fuel pump to run.
Try to start it.

Jump 87 and 30


Google Image Result for http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/K119.JPG

 

MOst relays have the pins numbered on the bottom.
Pull the fuel pump relay.

Look at the bottom of the relay.
Pins are numbered.

Then equate those to the socket.
Insert the jumper.

Fuel pump should fire up.

Engine should start if your fuel pump is pressurizing.

From Mike on a different old thread:

So, even if you prime the pump with the key, you get no 3 or 4 second pump run?
Send me your number and lets talk.
By the way., I am still thinking you may have the wrong relay. You mentioned you switch out a couple of your first, well there are 4 different large yellow relays from the factory, numbered RSL2 3 4 and 6 with only the RSL2 is an actual fuel pump relays, the others are not set to run the pump.

no power to fuel pump, and inertia switch problem - Land Rover Forums : Land Rover and Range Rover Forum

the pump doesnt prime, there is no power to the pump at all. i have jumped power to the pump and it runs. i have also used a jumper wire to from the fuse box and got power to the pump.


https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...o-power-44483/

01 2001 Land Rover Discovery Genuine Fuel Pump Relay W0133-1651283 for - Auto Parts Network

 

Is there a fuel schrader valve on his Disco like many Fuel Injected vehicles have? He can check that for fuel pressure. If so, where is it located?

 

Im still betting on a clogged fuel sock. I have seen it happen before on farm machines using crap gas. This summer I fought with our tractor fuel pump thinking it was causing a start fine but, die right away symptom. I have two inline filters and a fuel bowel that separates water out and they all checked fine, it ended up being a yellow jacket stuck in the fuel line at the bottom of the tank. Moral of the story is you put crappy gas in it, so the most likely solution is bad gas related not an electrical issue that randomly happened when poor gas was used.

 

The only problem though is that he's working on a oil field in Northern Canada and he has no choice on where to buy his fuel, he has like one choice and he can only buy the octane they offer.
I would start by jumping the relays like those guys said, then checking the sock filter on the pump, then replacing the pump.

You can run the engine on the either for as long as you want, it wont hurt anything.

 

It's on the back side of the intake manifold (the same engineer that decided that the coils should be back there put the schraeder valve in the same area)

 

I completely understand, Im not faulting him for it you have to use whats available.

 

Thanks guys, I will jump the fuel pump a little later on today.