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Stuck in Northern Canada and need help trouble shooting!

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Old Jan 21, 2013 | 11:58 PM
  #71  
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Anything is possible. Also, every little nut and spacer has to go back on exact, and the main spacer size is different for a manual tran vs auto trans. The spacing of the sensor is critical.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2013 | 01:34 AM
  #72  
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I'm confident that the CKP is installed properly. The replacement part was the exact same Bosch that was already on it. The housing and the spacers are the same ones that were on it before. I had a picture taken of the part before pulling it off, and the nuts appear to have the same amount of bolt sticking through them. So I think it's on properly. I do have spark. I did not have spark before.

Once I pulled the fuel pump fuse, it does run for a number of seconds. Each time. Then it ends sputters out with a hiss. I'll investigate that further. In the morning. It's loud.

The shop that I bought the truck from sent me the part. They know this truck well so I'm pretty sure that it's the right part. When I talked to Vern from TRS automotive, he already new exactly what model it is.

I've got two days before the client rep wins the pool. His money is riding on when I tow it out of here, not when I get it running. So basically he's telling me to tow it out of here on Wednesday.

I should be able to track down that hiss without a problem. I will be making the time as soon as daylight hits tomorrow. Got to get back to the maps.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2013 | 08:18 AM
  #73  
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The fuel pump relay is inhibitted from running more than a few seconds when truck is not running. When you turn the key but don't crank the pump may run 2 seconds. The fuel pump test schraeder valve is under the top edge of th intake at driver rear side, PITA to get at. Pump and filter and fuel pressure regulator are one unit in the tank.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2013 | 01:20 PM
  #74  
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Running for a second and then cutting off sounds like the fuel pump pickup sock is covered in rust or other dirt. After it sits, fuel seeps through the clog enough for an initial start but, not enough for it to run more then a few seconds.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2013 | 02:10 PM
  #75  
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Haven't checked this thread in a while. Good to see you're making progress.

Whats the ambient there? Whats the condition of your engine oil? If the oil is too thick, no amount of battery power will get it to turn over. Also, the fluid in your radiator grows too cold it can turn to sludge or worse, completely freeze. Sludge can make it impossible to start. Maybe, this is cause for your coolant leak?? It's a shot in the dark.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2013 | 02:35 PM
  #76  
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You could jump the fuel pump relay.
The fuel pump relay is under the hood.
Not sure exactly where --
But, jump the outputs of the relay to get the fuel pump going.
Then get a rag.

and a small screw driver and just pop the fuel pressure valve for a sec to see
if a fountain of fuel comes up.

If so - it should start.
Just keep the fuel pump relay jumped for this test.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2013 | 03:09 PM
  #77  
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The sucking sound I described when I start it for a few seconds with the fuel fuse pulled comes from the exhaust pipe. I don't think that is an issue.

I'm trying to figure out what this thing is.. it's vibrating and making a high pitched hum when the key is on.





 

Last edited by vonrock; Jan 22, 2013 at 03:23 PM.
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Old Jan 22, 2013 | 03:17 PM
  #78  
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Sorry for asking so many questions. I can't get the RAVE manual to work..
What is the best way to pull my carpet to access the fuel pump hatch?

Where is the fuel purge valve? I can't find it in the manual.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2013 | 03:23 PM
  #79  
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Old Jan 22, 2013 | 03:30 PM
  #80  
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Originally Posted by vonrock
Sorry for asking so many questions. I can't get the RAVE manual to work..
What is the best way to pull my carpet to access the fuel pump hatch?

Where is the fuel purge valve? I can't find it in the manual.
top driver side of the engine, near the intake piping.
 
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