I need a little advice from the experienced collective. During our trip to Moab, should I remove both front and rear or just 1. And if just 1.... which one? I thought the rear was the customary one to remove but I've noticed some guys are just removing the front.

 

@Killerkaw If you remove them be prepared to have either your shocks over-extended and possibly broken, or a spring pop out of the seat. Removing sway bars requires a correct vehicle setup to prevent both of those things.

While not common on Discos, shock breakage on defenders with no sway bar happens. Spring relocation cones get around the spring issue.
Brake lines and sensor wire need to extend to match your maximum articulation

I have personally never removed a sway bar and never felt that it would have helped, it is more about picking a good line, not a hard line

 

Thank you for the info. I didn't think that wheel sensors and brake lines were a concern even for mildly lifted LRs. Im not looking for any extreme climbing, but Id like to not be restricted by the sway bars. Ive "practiced" here at home by climbing stacked rail road ties till the LR teeters on the R fnt and L rear. The TC kicks in and it will eventually travers the hill. But sometimes not with out digging a hole by the dropping R rear. It seams it would be better if it was on the ground already

 

Are you on stock suspension? You need more articulation in Moab so I would get front swaybar disconnects and see how that works out. Keep the rear swaybar in place....rear travel is limited by the watts linkage. If you have a 2-3" suspension lift you can swap your original front swaybar links to the rear for a few more inches of rear articulation.

You would also benefit from more traction in the form of manually locking the CDL so you don't have to rely so much on the TC system. Have you checked under the truck for the CDL nipple on the transfer case? Stick your arm between the driveshaft and transmission and follow it to the transfer case. There should be three bolts in a triangle pattern and a nipple in the center; if you don't have the nipple then you can't manually engage the CDL.

If you do have the CDL nipple you can use a 10mm wrench turn it clockwise to engage; only engage when you are offroad and leave the truck running so you still have the traction contol and abs.

 

I'm currently on stock suspension but am considering a 2inch lift. If i do the 2 in springs and shocks, will i need to do anything else to get the benefit? Or is it just a straight swap? Id hate to spent the money and time and still be limited due to a harness or brake line, etc.
i like the front swaybar disconnect option. I'll order a set.
I do have the cdl and I've run linkage to the cab.

 

Check the link in my signature - I've got a write up on making your own sway bar disconnects pretty cheaply. $10 or so if I recall.

Brake lines will not limit your travel - if they are too short they will just break. At 2" you aren't there yet. I had extended lines made at 3", but had never broken one. Nothing really needs to be modified for a 2" lift.

There is some more articulation to be gained without the sway bars even at stock height, but not a ton. Quick disconnects are so cheap/easy it's kind of a "why not" scenario.

 

Check your brake lines and abs sensor wires, mine were tight at full droop with the sway bar in. For the cost the brake lines are a no brainer, when you do the lift

If you unclip the abs sensor the worst that happens is it disconnects and give you the 3 amigos, just make sure it seperates freely before hand

Front shock towers should be checked for delamination, if they are starting to go replace them when you do the lift.

And really that is it as @Alex_M a 2 inch lift is pretty simple. Spring and shock choice will be the hardest thing.