Tested HDC, now the 3 Amigos
Yesterday I decided to engage Hill Descent Control for the first time in two years, maybe more, just to remind myself how it works. Facing uphill at about a 20 degree angle in my driveway. So I put the car in Lo gear, then engaged it and backed out slowly. Stayed on fine, green light. Turned it off and went back to Hi gear. Hours later, after then taking out and cleaning my blower motor and putting it back (and the Rover had been on a couple times in between), I left with my family to a friend’s house. Suddenly, 3 Amigos was on. I’ve had this 40,000 miles and over three years, never had them before.
Now it’s come on and off intermittently since.
So I’m guessing my Rover is punishing me for daring to test its HDC capabilities. He must think he’s retired.
So what the heck? How could turning HDC on and off set these off?
Now it’s come on and off intermittently since.
So I’m guessing my Rover is punishing me for daring to test its HDC capabilities. He must think he’s retired.
So what the heck? How could turning HDC on and off set these off?
It could be many things, a coincidence with HDC, faulty wiring, faulty wheel sensor(s), faulty HDC switch, low voltage from battery, faulty earth ground, faulty ABS modulator, the list is endless and the only definite way to tell is to check the DTC codes with a suitable diag: tool, the rest is guesswork.
Thanks for the reply OffroadFrance! Are those codes checkable with an OBD II scanner, or do they require a different diagnostic tool? My OBD scanner doesn’t show anything new when I scan for faults.
Make sure it is for Land Rovers - sorry I neglected to mention that.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Diagnostic-...i:263591826910
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Diagnostic-...i:263591826910
Usually if the 3 amigos come & go the system isn’t storing a hard fault. I’d be looking at the shuttle valve switch wiring. It gets brittle over time & will cause ground faults. Or it could be the internal wiring connector inside the WABCO modulator. You can buy a replacement shuttle valve switch assembly for 40-55.00 online. I’d personally perform Option B while I had it apart to bypass the internal connection that eventually goes bad.
A good code reader that can read LR specific faults is a must to get a proper list of codes from the SLABS unit. A non LR specific code reader will just list a P1590 “rough road fault”.
I have a 500.00 03 D2 and it of coarse had the 3 amigo’s when I bought it. Found someone did a half (_!_) job trying to fix the WABCO modulator as 2 out of the 3 screws that secure the shuttle valve switches in place weren’t even in place! Wiring on the shuttle valve switch assembly was all messed up and corroded. Slapped in a spare, performed Option B, and now the 3 amigo’s have said adios for now.
A good code reader that can read LR specific faults is a must to get a proper list of codes from the SLABS unit. A non LR specific code reader will just list a P1590 “rough road fault”.
I have a 500.00 03 D2 and it of coarse had the 3 amigo’s when I bought it. Found someone did a half (_!_) job trying to fix the WABCO modulator as 2 out of the 3 screws that secure the shuttle valve switches in place weren’t even in place! Wiring on the shuttle valve switch assembly was all messed up and corroded. Slapped in a spare, performed Option B, and now the 3 amigo’s have said adios for now.
Thanks for the guidance on this guys. Here’s my follow-up.
I went ahead and bought the Hawkeye Total and got the 4114 Fault, read as SVS Electrically Failure (seriously, electrically failure?) and took the shuttle valve module out.
Turns out, someone already performed Optiom B! I’ve had this truck 40,000 miles, since the 98,000 mile mark, and been blissfully Three Amigos free because of it. But the problem now is that the module is straight up bad, due to brake fluid getting in one of the switches I guess. I noticed that one switch was white, and the other was discolored. Then I put my multimeter to the wires and tested continuity through the switches and sure enough, the clean white switch passed, but the dirty switch showed no connection through it.
So I’ve purchased the SVS module replacement, and also went ahead and purchased the seal replacement kit from Falcon Works to prevent this from ever happening again. I’ll update once they come in the mail and the job is complete.
As a side note, I just had to top up my brake fluid from it being low. Been two years since I bled the brakes and topped up so it’s been a really slow leak, but now I wonder, is this where the brake fluid has been seeping out from? It would be nice to cure the brake fluid leak by doing this job.
I went ahead and bought the Hawkeye Total and got the 4114 Fault, read as SVS Electrically Failure (seriously, electrically failure?) and took the shuttle valve module out.
Turns out, someone already performed Optiom B! I’ve had this truck 40,000 miles, since the 98,000 mile mark, and been blissfully Three Amigos free because of it. But the problem now is that the module is straight up bad, due to brake fluid getting in one of the switches I guess. I noticed that one switch was white, and the other was discolored. Then I put my multimeter to the wires and tested continuity through the switches and sure enough, the clean white switch passed, but the dirty switch showed no connection through it.
So I’ve purchased the SVS module replacement, and also went ahead and purchased the seal replacement kit from Falcon Works to prevent this from ever happening again. I’ll update once they come in the mail and the job is complete.
As a side note, I just had to top up my brake fluid from it being low. Been two years since I bled the brakes and topped up so it’s been a really slow leak, but now I wonder, is this where the brake fluid has been seeping out from? It would be nice to cure the brake fluid leak by doing this job.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post



