So I've replaced my block due to a cracked sleeve, had multiple issues with trying to get the new motor running since the install. I've probably checked and rechecked the ignition wiring, crank sensor, and fuel PSI... 10 times. The dang thing would not start.

ECG, BAP,CPS, WTF!

You guys have helped with so many suggestions, I really appreciate it.

Today, I pulled the plugs to check compression (assumed I got a bad motor), they all checked out fine. replaced and the truck started on the first try (at about 4000 rpms, I had to adjust the idle). Almost brought tears to my eyes!

I pulled it out into the driveway to let it idle... and to burn off any oil, fluid, etc... left on the motor from the install. After about 10 minutes... I did notice the temp creeping up (So a new therm is on the way, I'm not letting something small create another big problem).

I can also hear a coolant leak at the back of the motor (haven't located exactly where, but sounds near the coil pack). I will find it.

Thanks guys.

 

I might as well say thanks too!
Just finished changing oil pump, timing chain, sprockets, water pump, front engine cover, pulleys, belt tensioner, serpentine belt, valley pan gasket, valve covers, intake gaskets, etc.......

If there wasn't for this forum...I am not sure I would have the guts to strip the engine down to bare block and heads and do all this work.

Really great group of people on this board willing to help others.

Thanks from Canada!!!!!

 

sruff,

You will need to purge air from the system, you may be hearing air going through the heater pipes. If it continues, could be HG issue.

 

For what it is worth, you never try to adjust the idle, it is preset from the factory and the ECU controls it. You would be wise to get the engine running well and have someone reset it to the factory specs, if you have a problem still then find and fix the problem, don't cover it up with a bad adjustment.

 

Disco Mike,
I think I connected the throttle control "too tight" when I did the motor rplacement. No pressure on the petal, but truck running at 4000rpms. Once I adjusted the wire attachment (dialed it back) the truck found a smooth idle at just under 1000rpms.

I am waiting on the new therm stat, then will replace, flush, refill coolant as directed.

Very excited about having this thing back on the road before winter.

Thanks,

sruff

 

When you do the coolant flush, follow the directions in "How to" section to bleed the air out of the system. Very detailed. However, your thermostat will not open on the idle sitting in your driveway. Fan is driven all the time and the balance of the system is just perfect. What I do (and please be careful) in order to open the thermostat, I stick a piece of cardboard or trailer mudflap or anything that's big and skinny between the fan and the radiator. So the fan cannot cool it down. Thermostat opens in no time and your system can circulate and get all the air out of the system. You just gotta be careful otherwise you can lose your fingers...or worse.

 

You may also want to have a look at your fan clutch just to be sure it's working properly. If that's okay, usually a good thorough flush or two will clear anything out that's keeping it from circulating as good as it should. Keep in mind, depending on the year, some of the later DII's route the hot coolant through the heater core FIRST before the radiator at idle. The system need a little pressure/revs, to open up the spring-loaded thermostat.
Just a couple of other things to consider if your problem persists. Be careful with that new block!!! Take your time getting it going and don't let it overheat on you!!!!
Good Luck, man!